Projects Cherry Mechanic reporting in

First compression test on 1953 235 engine,yea ha.good news after following everyone suggestion I did it!! So what I got was 1-106,2-105,3-100,4-100,5-110,6-90.Changed oil 15-40 Rotella and put 1/8 of Marvelous Mistry oil.some said if I put to much it could open can of worms.Also did not change plugs yet and has a lot of dark carbon on them,truck still smokes.All advice is welcome!! Soon I will drop my cherry status,learn something every day,just hard to remember it next day!

 

Well,try to remember to complete your profile here on the HAMB,,People DO like to know where you live..in case you ever need some LOCAL help

 

Without help,cherry Mechanic sits on couch! Updated profile,and I thought 90 percent of the people didn't care. Still would like advice even if from as far away as Texas.

 

I don't think you asked any questions in your first post?? What are you wanting to know?

 

Hi. First to answer on your other question about the oil canister - That type canister is NOT a full pressure flow canister and is just what was used way back in the day. Notice the oil comes in the side near the top & then just flows through the perforations in the side of filter and then flows out the bottom and back into the engine. Rarely would that filter be full of oil. On the replacement filter element if it will push down into the canister far enough for it to touch bottom seal and the lid to seat with its O ring seal the diameter of the element can vary as long as the element does not touch the sides.
On the smoking could be bad valve seals allowing oil from the rockers to run down valves and is being burned.
Some of us here in Texas do not worry so much about your profile.
One photo shows what appears to be the fan way above radiator. If it runs hot you may need to relocate radiator to center fan. On second look it appears the radiator is just chunked in there so you can run the engine.
Post more photo's as work progresses.
My Avatar photo is my 1957 Chevy 235 in my 45 coupe.
Good luck, Jimmie

 

Hello,questions -are those no.on compression test good,and what about the 6-90.Also black carbon build up on plugs,is this fuel related,or oil,still a lot of smoke when rev engine.just let idle at house haven't run on road.Thanks for responding.

 

Whats the story on the rest of the truck? Get a good clean gas source. Change the plugs and run it for a while.
The carb should be fairly simple to tune, figure out what it is and set your fuel air mix.
See if it smooths out, runs better and stops smoking.
Let us know if the smoking is at start up or continous.

 

Go out and drive it for a bit. Let it smoke for a while.......then do another compression check

 

2.5 gallon gas can real clean,will change spark plugs and look on line and learn how to do fuel air mix and check about smoke.thank you so much,jump on it tomorrow.Bought a1946 chassis,with 1953 235 power glide engine,to replace a302 Ford engine in my 1938 Chevy,go figure!great advice.

 

Hello,can only idle,maybe drive around yard ,no cab.But will let it run and see if it guits smoking,thank you.

 

It may smoke for quite a while especially if that engine sat for a long period of time for a couple of reasons, first Marvel Mystery Oil is the one of the best for dispersing carbon plus the newer diesel oils like Rotella have a very high detergent content and less of the ZDDP than the old Rotella many of of the old timers here know and loved. To really get things cleaned out it's going to take some highway driving miles not just running in the driveway. The old oil used in a truck that age was probably 30 WT non-detergent and left a lot of deposits.

 

Thank you,makes good sense,will try and get engine out and put in the 38,and can't wait to fly down the road blowing smoke,slow work for a cherry,but I'm learning!

 

Late welcome. Thanks for your service. Good luck with the truck. Keep after it, you'll get it sorted out....Don.

 

Lot of knowledgeable guys on here that can help with 235, may change the thread title to pull them in. Ive had a few daily driver straight 6 but all were the next gen 230/250.

Hopefully the crud will burn out of it and you can assess the situation.
A real general direction, blue/ white smoke at start up only is worn valve guides or valve seals, sludged up oil drain passages allowing oil to pool in head.
Blue / white smoke while its up to temp and running is ring seal.

Look up how to read spark plugs, pull the plugs when the smoke dies down and see if any cylinders/plugs are oily compared to a light tan on the plug.

Check spark at each plug wire.

 

White smoke is coolant being burned by the engine.

 

Black fouling on the plugs indicate a too rich fuel mix at carb. Study up on doing air/idle adjustments with a vacuum gauge, takes out a lot of guess work when you tune that way. Find some of those old hardback MOTORS manuals for the year range of your motor. They are cheap but very useful and you can find them all over swap meets, flea-bay or craigslist.

As far as you compression numbers all are within 10-20 of each other and that is not all that bad, the may change a little once you break it in again.