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Hot Rods Cheatin' The Reaper

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Legendlives, Mar 5, 2016.

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  1. This build thread is awesome !!
    My Fave!

    I don't know why but it takes forever for the pics to load on your thread. Sometimes (more than 1/2) it times out and quits trying about 1/4 of the way down the page. Funny I don't have the trouble on any other pic heavy threads I view than my favorite.

    Here's how it shows,
    A link, a pic, another link.
    I've not seen this arrangement anyplace else.
    image.png
     
  2. Legendlives
    Joined: Mar 4, 2016
    Posts: 203

    Legendlives

    I just load the photos into my media files and then click on the photo's as I'm posting. I can bend and glue metal but I'm pretty sh*t with computers..........
     
    31Vicky with a hemi likes this.
  3. Legendlives
    Joined: Mar 4, 2016
    Posts: 203

    Legendlives

    Pedal pads now welded to pedals. Pictured in place:

    I also had a rare day off from work today, so with a bit of extra time on my hands I re-started on the fibreglass front.
    Firstly I cut out this huge lump of rusty iron:
    Which left a very floppy shell:

    A while ago I bought a large fibreglass box (which had some damage) for $1! This was immediately cut up and gave me 5 nice, flat fibreglass panels. One of these was cut to infill the side panel:
    and will be glassed in place. The same method will be used for the other side and the grill opening.
     
    saltflats likes this.
  4. Legendlives
    Joined: Mar 4, 2016
    Posts: 203

    Legendlives

    Panel glassed in from the inside, it just needs the join ground out and glassing from the outside but you get the picture.

    Now the final installment of dashboard modifications. As I want the dash to be removable it's necessary to have it on the inside of the rollcage, but this means there would be a huge gap, sooooo
    This strip of metal was added. It's about 2" wide and made from metal from the old fire surround mentioned in previous posts.
    These slots were cut at either end to clear the cage. You'll notice the return panels which add lots of strength. The extended side panels tuck inside the 'A' pillars so there will be no nasty gaps.
    It looks almost as good from the back as it does from the front!

    The finished panel:
    And trial fitted in the car:
    The original top mounts will work, and tags will be welded to the 'cage to attach the lower mounts.
     
  5. Legendlives
    Joined: Mar 4, 2016
    Posts: 203

    Legendlives

    saltflats and fauj like this.
  6. Legendlives
    Joined: Mar 4, 2016
    Posts: 203

    Legendlives

    saltflats likes this.
  7. Legendlives
    Joined: Mar 4, 2016
    Posts: 203

    Legendlives

    Part 3
    These plates cut from 3mm steel will be welded to the chassis, shown with the plans to make them! :
    They are different sizes because they will weld to the 'K' member which is cut at 45 degrees.
    The transmission bolts are cut to give exactly the same penetration as the originals. The side bolts will be replaced with something nice!
     
    bengeltiger likes this.
  8. Legendlives
    Joined: Mar 4, 2016
    Posts: 203

    Legendlives

    Inner seat belt mounts. Made from the two smaller ones of these:
    Which I made for a previous project but never used.
    These were curved, a 35mm wide fillet added between them, and a gusset at the back to add yet more strength:
    The curve is so that it can be mounted to the rear of the prop-hoop, and the transmission tunnel panels will fit tight to it. The cut-outs at the rear of the mount tie into the seat mount cross-tube.
    Now it's all tacked in place, along with the shifter mount and (just out of shot) the transmission mount.
     
  9. Legendlives
    Joined: Mar 4, 2016
    Posts: 203

    Legendlives

    Oil light.
    Far too much time spent on this, but here goes:
    Oil light turned from 6061 Aluminium stock. Machined to fit the 'crank' hole in the top of the dash. Secured by cup and 5mm studs:


    The light itself is a 'superbright' 3LED side marker lamp, so plenty bright enough:


    And in place:

    The surround will be painted black to match the dials.
     
  10. Wow, it keeps getting nicer
     
  11. Legendlives
    Joined: Mar 4, 2016
    Posts: 203

    Legendlives

    Thanks 31Vicky. If you like that you'll love this!
    Handbrake (or park brake to you I guess). I'm fitting the car with a hydraulic handbrake as it will probably need one for road legality.
    So starting with a handbrake lever pirated from a late 50's/early 60's English Ford, I welded on a couple of tabs to take a clevis pin and pivot.
    Then made up this panel in 3mm steel that will weld to the chassis just to the right of the driver's seat mounts
    The mount for the hydraulic cylinder is made from 4mm aluminium
    And is sandwiched between the lever and the mount pate like so:
    Under the weld-in panel there are nuts welded on, and a tab that will hold a return spring that will mount to the original cable hole in the lever.
    I've kept the hydraulic bracket removable in case I ultimately have to use a cable brake.
     
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2016
    saltflats likes this.
  12. Legendlives
    Joined: Mar 4, 2016
    Posts: 203

    Legendlives

    saltflats, bengeltiger and '52 F-3 like this.
  13. Legendlives
    Joined: Mar 4, 2016
    Posts: 203

    Legendlives

    Swaybar arms.
    I decided to fit a swaybar to the rear axle to (hopefully) help traction.
    This, of course, meant more cutting, drilling, grinding and welding.
    I started with these shapes cut from 3mm steel plate:
    Then drilled and shaped the important holes.
    Then the aesthetic holes were drilled and chamfered, and the slug cleaned up
    Then one became two
    And two became four. The small tubes are cut from CDS tube
    The parts fit together like this. The short black tube shows how the roll-bar will be connected.
    The tubes are welded in to only one side of the link. The other side will be welded when the bar is finalised.
    This will be my last post before Christmas. Have a good one and be careful in those garages guys!
     
  14. Merry Christmas to you too. image.gif
     
    Legendlives likes this.
  15. Legendlives
    Joined: Mar 4, 2016
    Posts: 203

    Legendlives

    I've had a couple of weeks off work over Christmas and the new year, so have been finish-welding the rollcage tubes, chassis, mount plates etc. Nothing exciting enough to post photo's of though.
    Got to a point today where I could drop the engine in, so now I can finalise mounts, headers etc. The engine is supported by the motor-plate, the stands are just there for safety's sake.
    I know the engine is not strictly HAMBy, but it looks HUGE in there so I thought I'd best post a photo or two. It's also really far back so weight transfer should be awesome!
    And with my assistant for the day - my daughter Eleanor:
     
    saltflats likes this.
  16. Legendlives
    Joined: Mar 4, 2016
    Posts: 203

    Legendlives

    saltflats likes this.
  17. Legendlives
    Joined: Mar 4, 2016
    Posts: 203

    Legendlives

    Another day of bolting things together to make sure they fit.
    First was the steering box:
    which is now bolted in place and attached to the steering column.
    Next, the diff and rear suspension:
    Fortunately everything fits here too! The adjustable top shock mount allows me to set the angle of the driveshaft (and therefore the ride-height) easily.
    While I was at it I thought I'd better try a rear wheel
    This is only rested next to the hub so it will eventually sit about 2" further in. I wanted the rear tyres to poke out of the arches a few inches and it looks like I've got my wish!
    Back to work tomorrow so progress is going to slow-up a little.
     
    saltflats likes this.
  18. Legendlives
    Joined: Mar 4, 2016
    Posts: 203

    Legendlives

  19. Legendlives
    Joined: Mar 4, 2016
    Posts: 203

    Legendlives

    The last couple of evenings have been spent making caster plates for the front axle.
    I think these are necessary as, looking at the front end as it is, I think the caster will go to Zero under suspension movement.
    I started with this alloy block. One of a pair of 'home-made' lowering blocks bought from a swap-meet for $5NZ.
    This was marked out and carefully cut in two using angle grinder and hacksaw.
    Once the halves were separated I clamped them precariously into the lathe's 3 jaw chuck and proceeded to smooth the faces.
    Once both were smooth I made up location lugs from allen bolts & nuts which were turned down in the lathe
    Which were then thread-locked into threaded holes in the plates;
    These will fit between the springs and front axle, and give around 5 degrees of caster.
     
  20. Legendlives
    Joined: Mar 4, 2016
    Posts: 203

    Legendlives

    I didn't have a lot of time to spend with the one I love(!) as I was crew-chiefing on the company comp-altered on Saturday (New PB by 0.4 Seconds!!!).
    Managed to get the caster blocks in place and mounted up the hubs so that I could measure for steering rod lengths.
    So this is where the front wheel will sit in relation to the body:
    Nice!
     
    saltflats likes this.
  21. mikeallcars
    Joined: Feb 16, 2012
    Posts: 1,316

    mikeallcars
    Member

  22. Legendlives
    Joined: Mar 4, 2016
    Posts: 203

    Legendlives

    Swaybar part two:
    I made adjustable links for the heim joints (rosejoints) from CDS tube with full nuts turned to fit inside them:
    The arms are welded to sections of CDS which are in turn welded to the swaybar itself. This gives a small lip which will bear against the side of the mounts and stop the bar moving side-to-side.
    The mounts themselves are nylon blocks, bolted to a steel mount plate. This will be welded to the underside of the rear chassis members
    The bar is made from thickwall seamless tube which is plug and end-welded to the arm assemblies
    Once in the car it should all sit like this:
    Very happy with it. Now on to the steering arms.........
     
  23. Legendlives
    Joined: Mar 4, 2016
    Posts: 203

    Legendlives

    saltflats and fauj like this.
  24. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 10,440

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    IMG_0943.JPG
    Got some preload on that anti sway?
     
  25. Legendlives
    Joined: Mar 4, 2016
    Posts: 203

    Legendlives

    No, the arms are parallel to each other.
    They look odd because they are angled outwards and the photo is not directly from one side.
     
    saltflats likes this.
  26. Legendlives
    Joined: Mar 4, 2016
    Posts: 203

    Legendlives

    Another milestone in the build today. It's funny but I always get a kick when the hubs move when you turn the steering wheel!
    The draglink and track rod are made from threaded thickwall tubing with hex-nuts welded around the tubes at the ends to make adjustment easier.
    There's loads of clearance at full lock

    Back with the arch-fillers, they will be mounted in this general area

    Happy days!
     
  27. Legendlives
    Joined: Mar 4, 2016
    Posts: 203

    Legendlives

    Now I have turbos, I need to get oil into and out of them. It would be easy to buy the correct flanges, but let's face it rodders don't do easy....
    Started with a rummage through the scrap bin and found these two pieces of aluminium. The top is 1/2" thick and the bottom closer to 5/8". These were drilled to suit the bolt/port patterns.
    Then cut and sanded to a more pleasing set of shapes.
    And finally, the drain flanges have -12AN males welded to them (these were cut from scrap fittings), and the supply flanges are tapped 1/8"NPT so that I can fit either -3AN or -4AN fittings to them.
     
  28. Legendlives
    Joined: Mar 4, 2016
    Posts: 203

    Legendlives

    Have not had a great deal of time over the last month or so, due to attending three race weekends (two as spectator, one as crew), but have managed to get the front shock absorber mounts in place.
    Shock absorbers themselves are from an original Mini. Top mounts are 3mm plate. Bottom mounts were the original drop-tube mounts but cut and repositioned. Although it would have been nice to use these in the original place, at least the welds are tidy now(!).
    Also in the pics you'll see the embryonic headers. Coming along nicely!
     
  29. Legendlives
    Joined: Mar 4, 2016
    Posts: 203

    Legendlives

    I thought it would be neater to have the front brake lines running through the chassis, so made up a couple of 'through chassis' brake bosses that will be welded in place.
    These started life as two ugly lumps of 1" bar
    Which were turned down to fit through a 5/8" hole:
    Then drilled through, and tapped at the ends to suit the brake unions. The banjo fittings will be on the inside of the chassis so the brake lines will be less intrusive, and the male fitting on the outside will be connected to the flexible brake hose.
     
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