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Projects Cheap ass 34 pick up

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by dumprat, May 31, 2015.

  1. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,319

    Runnin shine
    Member

    Is it getting a Plymouth six?
     
  2. Nailhead A-V8
    Joined: Jun 11, 2012
    Posts: 1,107

    Nailhead A-V8
    Member

    [​IMG]
    That's cool I looked at those parts but the guy must not have really wanted to let them go at the time cause he gave the "I'm going to be buried with these" price ha ha
    Twilly.jpg
    I built this out of a touring with a buddy of mine inside a house he was renovating...yeah we did all the welding 2x3 tubing frame etc. in the back bedroom :D I called it T Willy ...the body panels came out of an old 1930's-40's junkyard that had been bulldozed off a cliff that I found just over the border in Washington back in the '90's and was full of '20's sheetmetal
     
    Stogy, BradinNC, guitarguy and 7 others like this.
  3. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 4,337

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    Looking forward to see where you go with it.
     
    Stogy, kidcampbell71 and loudbang like this.
  4. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,183

    dumprat
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from b.c.

    66276205132__9F4D8D70-9476-4861-8EFE-34F888A8875A.JPG Pulled the rad, grill, and hood of yesterday in prep for a new front spring, brass shackle bushings, a track bar and some other corrections.
    1" of front up travel is not enough.

    Amazing how filthy everything gets in six months of limited use. Easier to rebuild it than wash it.......
     
  5. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 13,120

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Looking forward to seeing what and how you do next
     
    loudbang, Stogy, Six Ball and 2 others like this.
  6. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 4,337

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    Yes, limited up travel is an issue with my Chevy too, but low isn't as important as being able to drive it, really drive it.
     
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  7. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,183

    dumprat
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from b.c.

    I'm actually more worried about breaking parts than anything. It drives great but it's eating spring bushings and bashing the axle into things.
     
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  8. guitarguy
    Joined: May 26, 2008
    Posts: 578

    guitarguy
    Member

    Is there a bind or a twist in the axle that is causing the bushings to wear? For example, on Model Ts, the axle can be pushed or pulled out of it's natural position by the wishbone and cause wear on the bushings.
     
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  9. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,183

    dumprat
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from b.c.

    The axle was pushed a bit forward, not enough to crack the bushings. The bushings are just crappy plastic. I'm replacing them with oilite brass ones. Should last really well.
     
    Stogy, Tim, Nailhead A-V8 and 3 others like this.
  10. What have you done with the door handle and making it work with the latch?

    The handle posing a problem for me..

    Was going to do a lever and cable thingy but will not fit thru door handle hole..

    123.jpg
     
    loudbang and Stogy like this.
  11. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,183

    dumprat
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from b.c.

    It's kinda hard to explain.

    I cut the shaft off just before the window track.
    Bent up a pice of 5/16 square into a kinda hook that goes around behind the window felt with the track removed.
    Then welded on a little lug to pull on a 1/8 wire attached to the inside door handle mechanism.
    That has another rod that goes back to the bea claw latch.
     
    loudbang, Woogeroo and Stogy like this.
  12. I am going to presume your latch is in a different place than stock location.

    Raised up a bit?

    One thing on my build. copying yours a little once latch was moved out that 3/8th or so the inside lever was at correct length to use the stock holes and rod length with the bear claw..
     
    loudbang likes this.
  13. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,183

    dumprat
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from b.c.

    My latch is in the stock location. The handle is also in the original hole.
    When the door is closed, the arm inside the door just rests on the top of the latch case. That way you can turn the latch backwards and bend things. With mine you only need move the outside handle about a 1/2" to open the door.
     
    loudbang likes this.

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