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Chassis saver vs Powder coat on frame?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Mutt's37Buick, Jan 3, 2013.

  1. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,793


    When I first built my T Bucket, I ended up powder coating the frame. Cost was about $650 for frame and all the suspension pieces. It came out great and lasted up until the accident. When I got my new frame, I decided to use Rustoleum gloss black. It came out great. My T is driven daily, so it gets it's share on chips and I do a touch on those spots. And while a fair section of the frame is exposed, hell, it's a frame for Gods sake and my cars not trying to win show trophys.
  2. hemi gasser
    Joined: Aug 9, 2009
    Posts: 71

    hemi gasser

    I have used por 15 on several cars with great results but each one was sandblasted then painted. Floors, frames, suspension, rearend, everything underneath and out of the sun. One car has been done for over 12 years and has many miles on it and the underside still looks like it did when first done. Just used chassis saver for the first time, applied like por time will tell if it holds up as well. Appears to be the same stuff with a cheaper price than por.
  3. indyjps
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 3,941


    If youre going with a sandblated frame, consider tractor enamel with a hardener, wont cost much, you can shoot it yourself, its very forgiving. should be available in various gloss levels at a store near you, very durable, easy to touch up, no UV concern like por or similar products. you could go with a primer from the same manufacturer, but on sandblasted metal you dont need to. coat it twice and go with it.
  4. JalopyRegular
    Joined: Jan 15, 2013
    Posts: 3

    from NY

    Well the harder the better :p
  5. RockinRivi
    Joined: Feb 12, 2013
    Posts: 69


    Joined: Mar 12, 2006
    Posts: 263


    I've used both por 15 and chassis saver with excellent results. My nasty old battery box in my F1 was cleaned up at home, just degreased and sanded to get the big flakes off. I brush painted it with black chassis saver over the rust and remaining old paint. No problems. Don't get it on you.
  7. Russco
    Joined: Nov 27, 2005
    Posts: 4,132

    from Central IL

    My '40 chassis is getting Powder coated right now. I usually go with the paint (enamel and hardener) method and that works very well too, but I thought I'd try powder this time its just marginally more expensive but there is no labor or mess on my end now either. I'll report back in a few days when it gets done. I have heard of powder not being very durable sometimes But my past experience with it on race chassis is that its way, way more durable than paint. the down side is if any future work has to be done touch up is not as easy and also all threaded areas Cage nuts etc... MUST be plugged off.
  8. Russco
    Joined: Nov 27, 2005
    Posts: 4,132

    from Central IL

    Got my Chassis back from the Powder coater today. I couldn't be more happy with it. He did a great job it looks good and its very durable, much more so than paint, and even reaching up behind the boxing plates I can feel the powdercoating on the back side. I dont think that would be possible with paint unless it was dipped. BTW the cost was $450.00 total $250.00 for powder coating and 200 to sand blast it and bake it twice for prep.

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