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History chassis engineering catalogue

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by nobby, Mar 12, 2020.

  1. nobby
    Joined: Jan 8, 2006
    Posts: 465


  2. mcsfabrication
    Joined: Nov 26, 2006
    Posts: 845


    Chassis Engineering is now owned by Heidts. Seems the only bit they didn't take up is the straight axle front end part of the business. Some one has said that Pete and Jakes has picked up that part.
  3. Link does not work.
  4. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 1,652


    You might have to do it the old way; heat them up and drop them. It reduces your leverage when turning, but not a huge problem. When dropping the arms, you have to maintain the correct Ackerman also.
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  5. Couldn't you use the regular dropped arms, and use the "Jeep" tie rod end with the extra hole for the drag link?
  6. The OP is in the UK, he is looking for right hand drive component, it's on the opposite side from what we are use too. HRP
    Desoto291Hemi likes this.
  7. Fordors
    Joined: Sep 22, 2016
    Posts: 2,757


    A071EA4B-95E4-4D89-B814-4E8C5096E87B.jpeg @Algoma56 means this, he’s not referring to a forged steering arm meant for the side opposite to what we use stateside.
    The extra eye will be a simple solution for what @nobby needs.
    Algoma56 likes this.
  8. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,144

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

  9. Yep, that's why I suggested this end. He could put the assembled tie rod on the car with this end on left side, and connect his drag link to it.
  10. nobby
    Joined: Jan 8, 2006
    Posts: 465


    anyone have a set of these to hand?
    - do they have symmetry before the arm drops down
    or could I change them side to side and bend the arms - as they are forged
    or, were they always forged flat and then bent
  11. goldmountain
    Joined: Jun 12, 2016
    Posts: 1,823


    Nobby: What everyone is saying is shorten your tie rod and replace the left tie rod end with that Jeep one and you can attach your drag link to that

    Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
  12. I sent an email to Heidts regarding the steering arms in post 10 being symmetrical from side to side for a right hand drive rod. I asked to verify if they are a Heidts product.
    They may post answer here. If they email me an answer, I will post the answer here.
    Stay well.

    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  13. nobby
    Joined: Jan 8, 2006
    Posts: 465


    so, they were forged flat, then bent,
    the forging 'must' have been the one deal with two eyes, -remove one from pair
    then bent
    great, so I buy a pair from pete and jakes and bend them the other way
    -the listed milled set are for the above caliper bracket 'flat' with a spacer set.

    better than that!
    buy two pair - only have to bend 1 chop off other eye
    could someone invent some of these andbe done wit it!
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2020
    alanp561 likes this.
  14. nobby
    Joined: Jan 8, 2006
    Posts: 465


  15. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 26,917


    The dropped Ford truck rod ends won't get him the eye on the steering arm for the drag link.
    The Jeep tie rod end would work in his case if he has clearance between the rod end and the hair pins. He wouldn't even have to reverse the taper for the drag link end to fit as it would be correct when it was on that side. It doesn't use the rest of the Jeep CJ linkage that is the problem as far as it getting sloppy. Example here but I see that there are some Jeep parts suppliers in the UK and maybe one close enough to visit to actually look at the part.
  16. Torana68
    Joined: Jan 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,150

    from Australia

    Rod Tech down here can supply rhd parts, So-Cal might as well.
  17. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 26,917


    Last edited: Mar 14, 2020
  18. nobby
    Joined: Jan 8, 2006
    Posts: 465


    hello , I think I just want forged steel arms.
    I have rhd so-cal ones already but the drop isn't enough
    for reference
    I have
    these next ones are designed for a 5'' dropped axle not a 4'' one... - for hairpins

    EXTRA drop for wishbones is 3 3/4''
  19. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 6,282

    Alliance Vendor
    from Nebraska

    They are only making one arm and machining it and bending it for left hand drive. The arm they make has the double eye and is straight, then it's bent and machined with the eye being cut off the left side. I would contact Pete&Jake's and ask Jason if he would make you a pair for right hand drive?
    pprather likes this.
  20. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 2,065

    from Germany

    Well Ford did. In the past I've taken a RHD left spindle and a LHD right spindle and dropped the arms. Dropping them reduces the length. So I've used the outer holes for the tie rod and the Jeep the rod end to attach the steering. This ensures your tie rod isn't too close to the axle.

    Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
  21. nobby
    Joined: Jan 8, 2006
    Posts: 465


    so - he must get them stamped elsewhere and finish machine them in house?
    -so the likelihood of him having the raw unmachined blanks is high?
    -so it could be possible to buy a pair with eyes both sides?
    the addition to the catalogue might be a tad long winded......
    -ambidextrous forged deep drop 35-48 steering arms for wishbones utilising a 4'' dropped axle
    -I would wager the original inventor at chassis engineering also put the ackermann triangle in them for a 112 inch wheel base - over 104/6, not that it makes much difference if using a 46'', 47'' or 48'' width axle
  22. nobby
    Joined: Jan 8, 2006
    Posts: 465


    while I am on...……
    so I was looking for a tie rod end that maybe had a longer pin
    I happen to have a 1994 ford mustang tie rod end laying about,
    it shares the 1.5'' per foot 7 degree taper, and is a good fit in an early ford steering arm.
    - it also fits a mustang 2 spindle,
    - maybe early ford tie rod ends fit mustang 2 spindles.

    -these numbers are on the internet for the 95 mustang tie rod end cone
    cone size .554 to top of taper - .626 bottom.

    so I looked for available tie rods that had both left and right threads, with similar cone numbers
    I would bet that a tie rod with a cone of .543 and .630 shares a 1.5 inches per foot 7 degree taper
    the steering arms meat is just a tad thicker...…..

    getting to the point.
    a dodge w100 truck from 1987 has a tie rod with this taper.
    available with left and right threads
    BUT, the threads are .750 - 16 or 3/4'' unf
    groovy I thought as I could use 1'' bars with a 5mm wall
    1'' bar for .750'' rod end 11/16 drill for tap
    or 25.4mm 5mm wall cds, leaves a bore of 15.4, tap drill size 17mm
    4mm of wall thickness around thread - stout!

    so I then looked for left and right handed plug and taper taps - easy to find 3/4 unf
    1'' 5mm wall cds tube - easier than 7/8's to get
    the looked at the ball joints
    ooh, has the later style boot and clip
    ooh they even color code them for left and right
    DODGE RAMCHARGER 1986-1993
    DODGE W100 PICKUP 1986-1989
    DODGE W150 PICKUP 1986-1993
    DODGE W250 PICKUP 1986-1993
    check list for models- 3/4''
    then it struck me...
    because you are now using 1'' bars, you can look for other tie rod ends at 3/4 OR m18
    that opens the scope for pitman arms
    -for example, you could then fit a jeep grand Cherokee m18-1.5 tie rod end into the 1'' bar, it would fit a 1 1/8 sector shaft of a Saginaw 800
    Algoma56 likes this.
  23. warrendodge
    Joined: Jan 26, 2014
    Posts: 17


    i bought rhd steering parts from so cal for my 31 pick up

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