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Technical Chassis design. Can somebody check me?

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by george.barnes.754, Apr 21, 2018.

  1. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 8,799

    Marty Strode
    Member

    It has a rear seat too. IMG_1142.JPG
     
  2. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,407

    alchemy
    Member

    If you build it as low as Marty did you can have the rear passengers step on the rear tires to enter the back seat. Then no worries at all about the doors opening.
     
  3. I think I'm gonna end up lower than Marty. Hiw does that saying go? There's no such thing as too much horsepower, too low, too fast, or too much finned aluminum?

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  4. 1946caddy
    Joined: Dec 18, 2013
    Posts: 2,060

    1946caddy
    Member
    from washington

    "Also the reason for all of this calculating and figuring and whatnot is because when I build this chassis it's going to be done on 2 sawhorses in my front yard"

    You're kidding, right?
     
  5. Nope.

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  6. 'member with all those z's and stuff to make it low, the tranny and driveline can't go lower so they intrude into and take up a lot of interior room, which there is not a lot of to start off with.
     
    Just Gary likes this.
  7. Yup. And also a good thing my floor is missing in action too.

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  8. IMG_0887.JPG IMG_0886.JPG You looking to do something like this? I took these pictures maybe 10 years ago of a Cheaters car. There's probably more photos out there of how it sits
     
  9. Minus the channel (as I am almost 6' tall and would like to be able to get some use out of my duvall style windshield I am going to fabricate but will most likely have about a 6" chop to it) pretty much.

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  10. But approximately this stance. I believe this car belongs to a member here (and I just got the photi out if his build thread but forgive me as the name escapes me) Screenshot_20180421-094327.jpg

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  11. Yeah, that's a heavy channel and front "Z" for sure. Rear set-up is nice. Looks like a Posie or Speedway rear spring.

     
  12. I think I have it half assed figured out in the back. Quarter elliptics using my boat trailer springs that only have about a 6" arch in them, condense it all so my rear end isn't completely hanging off the back of my chassis, 2" drop a crossmember, convert my A front spring to a monoleaf, mount my front end spring behind on a 4 bar and batwings instead of the bones I currently have (I have concerns with drilling and sleeving my front bones and potential safety concerns vs using laser cut and bent batwings with a hole in the plate to mount my perch). That should get me in the weeds. And a custom crossmember in the back (and removal/rework of the pan under the back seat) to mount my springs higher. This is the latest revision of my chassis blueprint. 1524536584666.jpg

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  13. clem
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 4,188

    clem
    Member


    7 degrees is in relation to the floor, assuming the floor is level.
     
  14. So I should be able to lean my front crossmember back to whatever the angke is on the note in my plan shown above with it sitting on my sawhorses and be ok. It works out 8 and some change to compensate for rubber rake.

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  15. AndersF
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 884

    AndersF
    Member

    See and learn. You cant do it better then this.
    To build a car from scratch is a lot more complicated then it first looks.
    You should really take the time to mock up the parts with a woodframe before you build as suggested.
    On my build i put the rearaxle where i wanted it to the body.
    Then i put the engine against the body where i wanted it.
    Then i needed to have place for my radiator before the front crossmember to be
    able to mount it low enough to look good to the cowl.
    Then i could take my measurements for my frame.
    Do it any other way and you risk to make a ugly car.
    With all the parts together you allso can plan where to put gastank, battery and etc.
    Give the tiresize and use of a A-Ford spring a second thought.
    If you use a moontank mount it in the rear outside the body instead.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Hackerbilt and fiftyv8 like this.
  16. speedshifter
    Joined: Mar 3, 2008
    Posts: 312

    speedshifter
    Member

    I believe the angle of the front spring & cross member should be 90 degrees from the upward or downward pitch of the radius rods. The spring shackle hangers will probably need to be heated & bent slightly to allow this. The correct spring angle is completely independent of axle caster. Greg
     
    Andy likes this.
  17. X-cpe
    Joined: Mar 9, 2018
    Posts: 1,959

    X-cpe

    Why not? Wasn't it Tex Smith who built the frame for his AMBR car using cinder blocks and shingle shims and documented the process in HRM. I built my frame that way after I laid it out on the shop floor at school. It just means a whole lot of measure/remeasure, level/relevel and recheck/ recheck/ recheck each step of the way. It'll be slow but you can't use what you don't have.

    I would second the suggestion of mocking up all the components to see how they fit and how you fit. When you channel them and build them low room gets gobbled up real fast. Its also surprising how many things seem to want to occupy the same space.
     
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2018

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