Register now to get rid of these ads!

Carter YF help needed. I think I'm missing something.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Tugmaster, Feb 9, 2013.

  1. I'm rebuilding a Carter YF carb. It's a 3211S. Inside the choke housing is a bar the comes up and is connected to the throttle body via a rod. Well, when it comes into the choke housing it doesn't connect to anything. It makes no sense. I''m pretty sure it is supposed to be coneected dome how. Here's a couple of pics. Let me know what you think. If I'm missing a part I hope I can find it.
    Thanks,
    Todd
     

    Attached Files:

    • 001.JPG
      001.JPG
      File size:
      102.6 KB
      Views:
      292
    • 002.JPG
      002.JPG
      File size:
      99.8 KB
      Views:
      190
  2. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 10,596

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    Is that cam shape wheel supost to pick it up for fast idle?
     
  3. DrJ
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 9,418

    DrJ
    Member

    Choke trip lever, mounts in the shiny hole on the right and is moved by that "hook"
    That arm sticking out at ya goes through a slot in the sheet metal baffle and picks up the end of the bi-metal spring coil.
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2013
  4. Road Runner
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 1,257

    Road Runner
    Member

    I had two of those on a dual intake many years ago.
    The auto-choke was not a really useful feature.

    I had the original Carter heat-stove that mounts to the exhaust manifold, but I had to keep fine-tuning the auto choke setting with different ambient temps and eventually just got the universal manual choke conversion kit from Napa, which worked a lot better, as I could control the amount of choke on the dash, if needed.

    It's a good single carb for the 235, which is basically the same as 2100s/manual choke.
    Just make sure you don't let E-10 ethanol gas run dry inside the bowl from parking too long in the summer.
    The accelerator pump diaphragm can harden and crack if it dries out.
     

  5. Thanks for the info. I have the sheet metal baffle and the plactic cover with the heat spring. I guess I am missing the "trip lever"? I cant find a pic of the complete assembly. Can this be modified to manual choke. I've hade these heat chokes on Rochesters before and they have never worked very consistanly for me.
    Todd
     
  6. ***UPDATE*** I braved the still shitty roads here and went to the local parts store and got a manual choke conversion kit from Dorman. I think this will be much better than the heat choke in the long run.
    Thanks again for your inputs.
    Todd
     
  7. DrJ
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 9,418

    DrJ
    Member

    Best idea....
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.