Evening. I have got a 360LA Mopar in my garage and I'm trying to work out the angles etc to put it in the car. ('59 Bristol 406) I'll try not to make this another post about pinion angles... To have the rear pinion and the crank parallel with a 2-3 degree angle on the prop means that the carb/inlet surface is off level by about 3-5 degrees. Looking about it seems that the easiest answer to this is a wedge plate, such as this one. Is there any more I need to know here? Is there owt wrong with a wedge plate to answer this? Maybe some carbs don't even care, I dunno. Doing it this way gives me all the right angles, but doesn't give me a block/tranny pointing down at the rear a bit for safety. If I could lift the diff pinion up a few degrees I would, but the rear axle has torsion bars and a watts linkage which means it's staying where it is. I suppose another answer is to inject the motor, but I've rebuilt it and need it to start up straight away for running in. I'm not confident i could get that to happen with injection. Cheers for any thoughts. Apologies if pinion angles wind you up. Dave
the crank has a 2-3 angle with the trans down and the carb angle is off 3-5 degrees? marine intake? either war the spacer wont hurt if it corrects your carb angle I have also seen intakes milled
I doubt you will need an angle plate. Your car usually runs fine going up and down hills greater than 5 degrees.
Sure would be nice to consider everyone on this site by FILLING OUT YOUR PROFILE PAGE,, Your asking for our help,but don't want to tell us who the hell you are
If the crank is level, which it needs to be so as to be parallel with, and slightly above, the rear pinion, the carb/intake is off by about 4 degrees. The rear pinion is level with the road/chassis. Here's a pic of the intake:
crank does not have to be level they are generally designed (in cars) to have a 2-3 downward angle thats why most carb flanges are about 3 degrees off of crank centerline this makes for a level carb while the engine has the slight angle downward at the trans
Thanks. I get that, but for the angles to be right the crank needs to be level. If I have the carb level and the crank centreline down then crank and pinion are not parallel, cos I can't change pinion angle.
Because the axle has torsion bars and a Watts linkage. I don't think I can change the angle because of that. I can take some pics if needs be. I thought a wedge plate would be 100 times easier that reworking all that, even if it is possible.
No idea. That's how it is from the factory. I'm not putting a stock engine in there, maybe it made sense with the original set up, dunno.
We'll if your not gonna correct the rear I guess you will have to make up for it with the engine I always weld my pinion angle last after all angles are set and engine is mounted and at ride height.
Hey, that was short and sweet. Even my Mopar motor doesn't qualify me to be a member. Sad to not be able to learn from here. Enjoy your cars.
The mopar choice actually helps It takes a little more ingenuity and cash Good luck I let the moderators police this site
This is a 1959 Bristol 406 designed by Bristol and Zigato. Whilst not a traditional US based car, our English friends like us Ozzies and Kiwis had to work with what we had. I've a friend with a Pommy rod, a SBC powered 1948 Vauxhall. US iron was a bit thin on the ground as local GM, Ford and MOPAR offered their own vehicles and being Commonwealth countries that was all that was offered. Given that, I suspect you'll have to be kind to your OEM rear axle as it was only designed for a 2lt six with 100hp. As it has a chassis you may need to swap in another rear end at some time once you get it running. Carroll SHELBY started with a British AC car that he shoehorned a 289 into before going all out and stuffing in a 427FE.
Nobody has run you off yet, don’t let a couple grumpy type posts stop ya from hanging around. And yeah, don’t sweat the carb spacer, as already said , going up and down hills don’t make a difference. Enjoy the site, try to stay on the right side of the written , or otherwise implied “rules” . If nothing else it gets pretty comical/irritating reading all the bickering between the engineers, and the seat of the pants types. Plus you might learn something you didn’t know. That’s how I roll through here anyway. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
British cars are cool (except the wiring sometimes) lots of 'across the pond' cars are posted here big motor + light weight car = cool.....ask Carol Shelby
5 degree plate from jegs. would put you close to level. Lot of options do a google search. http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/65...MIu8T_78O-2AIVzVqGCh2OrAwiEAkYAiABEgIl2vD_BwE
Alright. Thanks. I had a little message come my way..we'll see how it goes. Re the rear axle..I have a rebuilt and strengthened one with an LSD good for 300bhp so should be good to go, I'm not going mad with the engine. The model after mine Bristol put in Chrysler 313's, then later cars had 360's, which is why I have gone down the Mopar route. Still enough to make me a pariah in Bristol circles though. I have got myself more concerned about the safety aspect of having the motor level now than I have the carb. I can get it all lined up perfectly, but only if the motor/tranny sits parallel to the road/chassis, which is not too safe. But then I don't suppose many 60 year old cars are anyway.