This is slightly OT, since the problem is on my wife's gennie 67 Mustang with the Falcon straight-6 engine. Maybe you carb guys can help me with this one. Car starts and drives fine. But park it and let is sit for a few minutes, enough for engine heat to rise, and the thing will start and die, like it's vapor locked or fuel starved. The only time it does it when the engine's running is during the summer, when it's really hot outside and you get stuck in traffic (obviously, underhood heat allowed to build up). When I went through the engine, the carb base had a water jacket pass-through. It was cracked, so I just by-passed it with the heater hose. I guessed at the time that the water pass-through was for quick heating on cold mornings -- could it also be for keeping the carb cool? Seems unlikely, but it's all I can think of at the moment & I'm not much of a carb guy. I can sit in Atlanta summer traffic jams all day in my 57 Chevy, with its straight six and carb, and never have this problem. Never had it on anything else, either. The hot weather is here and wife's starting to bitch about me fixing it, but I'm not sure of what to do.
First off, make sure it's really a case of no fuel. Does it still have points? Sometimes, a condenser will crap out when it gets hot too.
My hunch was always something with the fuel, since that's the way it seems to act. I hadn't thought about the condenser, but that could be it... engines loses its ability to burn the fuel it gets. Car still has the points setup, although I replaced all that when I went through the engin. I could always stick a Pertronix in it and eliminate that as a problem.
After you shut if off Look into the carb and see if it is leaking fuel. You may have a float issue. You can also check to see if it is leak while running With a mirror. Flooding could still act the same as No gas. if it is loading up the cyl.
On this engine, the carb spacer is there to provide heat, but also cools the carb base. The intake is cast into the head and the exhaust ports on the center two cylinders are actually part of the intake floor right beneath the carb. The intake floor gets pretty warm. That design helps vaporize the fuel, but it also heats up the carb. In cool humid weather the coolant helps prevent carb icing by adding a little heat. But in summer, it takes away some of the excess heat. If you bypass the base, without the coolant in the carb base the carburetor will get warmer than normal, and it gets real hot after you shut the engine down from heat soak. The fuel boils off pretty quickly and you have a dry carb. There's not a big float bowl in an 1100 carb, so it happens pretty fast.
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