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Carb spacer question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by upspirate, Jun 18, 2013.

  1. upspirate
    Joined: Apr 15, 2012
    Posts: 2,196

    upspirate
    Member

    Thinking of using a phenolic carb spacer on my Edlelbrock carb for heat isolation purposes.

    There seems to be .275",.320",.50". and 1" available as well as open plenum or 4 hole.

    I have a 1406 600 CFM Edlebrock carb on a Jegs dual plane manifold,headers,327,don't know the compression or cam, but it "seems" fairly mild.
    No hood clearance issues

    Any thoughts on this? I'm not really into changing performance aspect, just heat absorption and fuel boiling
     
  2. LeoH
    Joined: Nov 4, 2011
    Posts: 462

    LeoH
    Member
    from Reno, NV

    Don't forget to consider running a T in the fuel line and a vapor return line to the tank to help with boiling.
     
  3. Dan Timberlake
    Joined: Apr 28, 2010
    Posts: 1,269

    Dan Timberlake
    Member

    If I like the way it runs now I would not use a spacer that is more open than the manifold flange. I think super thick is not really >that< much better, in regards insulation.

    return line with a small orifice from point near the carb is a powerful vapor lock fighting detail.
     
  4. oj
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 6,247

    oj
    Member

    I'd go with 1/2" 4 hole, the 4 hole should give a little torque as the velocity of the air going thru will be slightly higher than the open spacer - for drag purpose at WOT the open one is better because it'd increase plenum volume. You aren't at WOT so the 4 hole would be the better choice.
    FYI, fuel boils in the bowl of those edelbrocks at about 145ish degrees. You are doing the right thing.
     
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  5. Call Dennis at Cool Carb in PA. He has a website. Just had my grandson down in KY put one on his 302 with the Edelrock as he was vapor locking in the heat. It has ended his problem. The spacer is quite thin and made of a space age material. I have used it before on the Edelbrock and it has always solved the issues.
     
  6. Jack E/NJ
    Joined: Mar 5, 2011
    Posts: 588

    Jack E/NJ
    Member
    from NJ

    Well mine is made of material from a wood kiln. And low-mid range response of a 413 is a bit better with a 1406 sitting on top of a nice piece of 2x8 with 4 holes. All you need is a hole saw, paint brush, varnish and lumber from the Home Depot. 8^)

    Jack E/NJ
    [​IMG]
     
  7. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,252

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    I heard a carb spacer will give more HP because it straightens out air flow below the carb. In addition to whatever it does for heat isolation.

    I would use the thickest one I had room for, without getting the carb too close to the hood.
     
  8. mustang6147
    Joined: Feb 26, 2010
    Posts: 1,847

    mustang6147
    Member
    from Kent, Ohio

    What I found, based on dyno results.... The spacer is great for heat isolation. The size of the spacer depends....Cold fuel atomizes better in a hot manifold.

    Raising the carb off the intake, gives it a tunnel ram effect. Meaning the higher up the carb, the higher up the rpm range....

    So you could use this as tuning as well as heat isolation. Raising your induction performance, to where your cam HP range is.

    Which spacer you use, is like hooking your vacuum advance up to a ported or constant vacuum source. Every engine is different, and reacts favorable to either.

    Normally 1/2 is used, but I have seen guys run 2 inch spacers, and it cleans up RPM's at 6000rpms... This is based on a dual plane manifold. Any higher RPM go to a single plane....
     
  9. Buzznut
    Joined: May 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,349

    Buzznut
    Member

    I put one on my 327 running a '69 Z28 hi-rise dual plane snowflake manifold topped with a 625 Performer and it seems to have made a difference for the better.
     
  10. Don's Hot Rods
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 8,319

    Don's Hot Rods
    Member
    from florida

    Hehe, I've seen shadetree, but you cut down the tree and used it ! :D
    Don
     
  11. upspirate
    Joined: Apr 15, 2012
    Posts: 2,196

    upspirate
    Member

    Thanks everyone....I'll go with the 1/2" 4 holer......not looking for more performance or to increase in upper RPM's.

    Just trying to keep build-up out of the carb between uses due to evap.

    I know,use it more often!!!:rolleyes:
     
  12. BootleggerMatt
    Joined: Aug 17, 2011
    Posts: 258

    BootleggerMatt
    Member

    How long have you had that? I tried it once but it started to crack and split from the heat and fuel... I didn't varnish mine though, maybe thats the trick.
     
  13. 5559
    Joined: Oct 25, 2012
    Posts: 362

    5559
    Member
    from tn

    wood works good,Ive got a 16 horse lawnmower that needed a carb that nobody could get, and I had an old bendix carb from a harley. The mower carb had mounting bolts side by side & the carb mounted with up & down bolts.I had nothing to loose so I cut about 4 inches from a 2x4 drilled about a 1 inch hole thru the middle & the 4 mounting holes.Ihooked everything up -hit the switch& it ran--but flooded--i decided to just run it on the idle circuit & with it running on a fast idle you can mow anything you can ride down.Been doing good for about 3 yrs---and the oval harley air cleaner looks cool !!!!
     
  14. I always made mine from 1" phenolic since I worked in a machine shop and that's all they had.

    Bob
     
  15. I used the Cool Carb pacers on my Caddy tri power, along with a return line to the fuel tank, and it has solved the obstinate vapor lock problem for us.
     
  16. rd martin
    Joined: Nov 14, 2006
    Posts: 2,431

    rd martin
    Member
    from indiana

    any info with pics on how you guys have set up the return line? thanks.
     
  17. Ole don
    Joined: Dec 16, 2005
    Posts: 2,915

    Ole don
    Member

    For a return line, a 460 powered Ford truck had them stock about 1988 or so. Buy the fuel filter and plumb it in. Look at pictures in a book or online.
     
  18. LeoH
    Joined: Nov 4, 2011
    Posts: 462

    LeoH
    Member
    from Reno, NV

    Your Motor May Vary, but how I had it shown to me is, either plumb a T into the fuel line, or apparently there are fuel filters with an extra restricted flow port you can find, run the narrow diameter tubing piece to a second fuel line, on this guy's car, he ran the second line parallel to the existing fuel line back to the tank and across, up to the fuel filler neck.

    He removed the metal fuel filler neck from the car, and drilled and mounted a stub for the end of the vapor line, reinstalled and then ran rubber line from the metal return line into the new stub in the fuel filler neck.
     
  19. Saltmine
    Joined: Jun 29, 2013
    Posts: 4

    Saltmine
    Member

    That's not all that unusual. (the wooden spacer)...I used to have a '51 Plymouth convertible that I think the whole engine & transmission was made out of maple.
     

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