Heres a couple more. The last 1 was actually whet i did today. Kinda off topic, but a gas gauge will go in there somewhere.... Carb related. Ha Sent from my SM-T387V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Thanks to two couped up, i got a couple of the proper carbs. Nice meeting you by the way. And good luck on that Lincoln powered project. Looking great. I cant remember where to source that vac line with the right fittings from the carb to dizzy. If someone has any input, ill be needing that info also. Any help is appreciated.
No worries. I nabbed up da last 2 set i found on fleebay. Thanks again. What the hell did people do 4 info b4 the internet? Ha...
I believe it's called "Ford Nut", need bofe of 'em for the carb fitting. NAPA has them, if you can find the number. T-Bird or squarebird vendors have 'em all ready to go with hard steel line and everything.
Yea i actually got a couple of the "ford nuts" for the fuel line inlet through Napa. I had todo my own seach to come up with a part # for em tho. Ha. The vac line has something else i didnt realize that is supposedly carb and distributor specific... Or something else may work, i dont know? But i got whats supposed to be there, on the way..
Yes and it works. Springs are in place also. Moves nicely in both directions, under vacuum and returns. Not sure on how easily or not its supposed to move tho. Ill cross that bridge after its alive...
Glad I could help Glenn, the pictures look great and that car will be a blast to drive. One thing I saw in the pictures was the rear is supported only by the rear radius rods at this time, I know you are still in mock up but do you plan on putting any other support? I have read that when the torque tube is removed for open drive, the radius rods can't handle the torque and can bend or even break. Bob Drake offered a torque arm kit that bolted on the banjo and ran to a crossmember I think to solve the problem. Maybe someone will chime in with a fix.
Thanks. I did actually think about that. But i was under the impression that the torque tube removal issue was with the earlier radius rods that were much weaker than the 47s i have? I could be wrong tho?.? Will definitely look further into it. Like you said, maybe the experts will give a thought on this, hopefully.
Well the angle is different, fuel or brake line fittings won't work afaik if that's what you're getting at.
OK, just checkin'. Just grabbed this pic at random off the intertubes. This is the correct male fitting shown. Notice though, the carb doesn't have the female fitting installed. No worky!
Yes, ever notice the ends how the ends of the tubing are crimped, that lets just the right amount of vacuum in while keeping the flow even..
Ohhh. Am i missing somthing? Is there a fitting that needs togo into the carb vacumm port before the proper vacumm line can screw in?
I was under the assumption that if you have the proper vacumm fitting, it screws into the carb. Looking in the vac hole in the carb, it looks it should accept the fitting nicely. Do you or anyone else have a pic of this "female fitting" if there one that is actually needed?
Hi. That is really a nice looking ride. Get that dang carb fixed and get that car cruising. It needs driving. Jimmie
If I remember correctly, the "Ford Nut" on the vacuum line screws directly into the carb body; no intermediate fitting required. There is an intermediate fitting on the fuel line.
It screws into the carb, but it needs something to seat against. It's a compression fitting. That's why I brought it up. If the carb your using has the correct angle female flange it will work. Maybe it doesn't need the female side to run the vacuum advance, maybe it won't bleed off vacuum, but why did they make them that way? Could have saved .50c, one thing about "extra" or unneeded parts on cars, if it isn't needed it won't be there.
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