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Technical Carb plating,

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by 1927graham, Nov 17, 2014.

  1. DSCN9550.JPG I have a 6-2 set up on my Nailhead, I don't like the finish on my Holley 94's, thought about having them plated, similar to the color that's on them now. The carb rebuilder used the Eastwood spray on these, I don't like it. Need your thoughts and experience on a reputable shop.
    kiwijeff likes this.
  2. Buff it off and polish them.
  3. Jerry Rice
    Joined: Aug 25, 2010
    Posts: 54

    Jerry Rice

    I think they look great in that color. I'd just hit them with a satin clear to preserve them, but, it's your ride.
  4. Not that you asked, so you could just ignore this. I wouldn't blame you if you did. I read your build thread and this really a Beautiful truck ! image.jpg

    The carb color doesn't look horrible, but there are something's that I would change long before I thought about the color of the carbs.

    For a simple engine compartment it looks really busy.
    The block color seams to clash with the body color.
    The ignition wires being not black draw attention then the eye notices the chaos they bring.
    Worm drive claps everyplace add to the confusion.
    A roll of rubber hose for fuel line needs to go.
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2014
    fnjunk, K.L and 1927graham like this.

  5. 'Mo
    Joined: Sep 26, 2007
    Posts: 7,435


    I had my 94's Jet-Hot coated, as well as the headers.

  6. von Dyck
    Joined: Apr 12, 2007
    Posts: 678

    von Dyck

    Ditto, 31Vicky.
    I originally did a chrome powdercoat (minus the clear) on my 94s. These carbs are notorious seepers and the seeping gasoline made the powdercoat finish ugly! Took some time to remove the coating with lacquer thinner and elbow grease. The carbs are smoothed out, but do not take on a real shine - that's just the nature of zinc-die cast (pot metal). Polished stainless screws help in the overall appearance along with chromed fuel lines.
    31Vicky: just want to know what you would use to replace the worm screw clamps. Always open for suggestions.
    1927graham: how well do the carbs perform with the floats behind the venturiis, especially under full throttle acceleration? And it appears that they are simultaneously linked (not progressive) - are you able to get a decent idle?
    1927graham likes this.
  7. Do you just not like the coloring, or did you want something a bit more durable ???

    It was a gold iridite originally....(I THINK) can get them redone, fairly easily......or even redone in different coloring, or plating. If you can disassemble and re-assemble will be money ahead if so. More so, if able to ship already beaded.....paying attention to plug any internal orifices, from debris issues from blasting.......usually one doesn't need to blast the innards but some people don't think that through

    Here's a school of thought as can do some of the of the chromate baths at home........most of the carb parts are zinc coated pot metals. Yeah, I know....most don't jack with it.......but visit the


    site, and see what you think. Not solo on this stuff.....but one of my cohorts did all his stuff, my neighbor's son-in-law and my dad's boat carbs for less then 200 bucks, with more product left over to do maybe three times more. The verdict is out on wear and tear as of yet, but we will see what a winter of sitting will do.
    loudbang and 1927graham like this.
  8. The factory process is a yellow/gold chromate dye. The carbs are acid washed then placed in the dye solution to give the zinc in the castings the proper tint. I have been using this same process for about 10 years. Rick
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2014
    loudbang and 1927graham like this.
  9. wedjim
    Joined: Jan 1, 2014
    Posts: 420

    from Kissimmee

    I can't wait until my car is together and my carb coloring is my biggest concern!!! lol

    Sweet ride man, super cool either way!

    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
    Hotrodmyk, 1927graham and fine29 like this.
  10. The block color is actually a very dark navy blue, it photographs as much brighter. Don't like the bright blue look either, the firewall is an almond/cream color, the cab being charcoal, I think it goes ok together.
    I have new black Pertronix wires in the shop now.
    Today received new ribbed valve covers and matching valley cover pan, , made in USA w/ Buick script.
    The headers and intake manifold are presently at Race Coatings, Forest Lake MN, being ceramic chrome coated.
    Explain the worm drive clamps, a bit confusing to me.
    Let me say, I DO appreciate your thoughts, people like you I listen to, thanks for taking the time.
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2014
    loudbang likes this.
  11. There's a bunch of options for hose clamps, here's just one that's right at home on any vintage ride.

    Traditional hose clamp pliers. ^^^^ I have a set that I got from my dad & he got from his grandfather.
    For this type of hose clamp


    If you are going to keep the rubber fuel lines
    (Is that 14 rubber hose connections ?) the small crimp band clamps look really tidy. Changing that to hard lines with 2 , 3 outlet fuel logs will really help I think.

    On your heater core, a simple threaded fitting soldered on the in and outlet will let you use a really slick long sweep elbow hard line to get off the pretty fire wall, then into the heater hose.

    Cameras do some weird stuff.
    Your body color looks to be a slate toned blue/green in every picture. ( not charcoal) In the profile side shot of the truck the block looks much dark blue with a hint towards purple. Be it bright blue or dark blue it doesn't jive well on my monitor. The body, firewall and interior all look fantastic. In this pic, the engine before rebuild and recolor mimicked the body well
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2014
    1927graham likes this.
  12. Fuel injection hose clamps look a little less bulky and more old time. We used some banjo fittings and a 2X2 fuel block on one 6X2 set up and it cleaned up the lines a lot, they were 97s, not sure if that would work out the same on 94s.
  13. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 16,081


    Banjo fittings and inline banjo fittings like Rich B suggest would look great on there. Would remove a lot of clutter. And using the wire clips like 31Vicky suggests would help even more.

    Getting the carbs plated the correct way, as mentioned by Ricks Garage above, would also make them look much more authentic. They look "painted" now, and that's not a good look for a carburetor.

    Have you thought of painting the block the same color as the body? Or even the firewall? Sometimes when too many different colors get together, they clash. Even if they are of the same "family" like blue or charcoal.
    1927graham likes this.
  14. damn nice truck, job well done!
    I do a lot of carb bodies, but with powdercoating, not dipping, on your truck if they bothered me, I would tear em down and dip them yourself like explained above, that would really fit the look of your truck instead of a paint or powder job.
    1927graham likes this.
  15. I like the idea of polishing them (lots of work though). The chrome plating on my '37 banjo wheel was blistered and flaking, so I removed it and polished up the pot metal;
    1927graham likes this.
  16. F-6Garagerat
    Joined: Apr 12, 2008
    Posts: 2,652


    I used to work in a Carb shop, we would clean and chemically re-color them similar to the color of the OP's carbs. I have a Carb shop near me that still re-colors them the same way. I had the 97's for my tri-power done. It's not a perfect process and has some flaws/differences from casting to casting even on the same carb. I'm sure it has to do with the chemicals 60 years ago and now, the changes the metal has gone through over the years etc. I had 1 main body that wouldn't even take color so I had to replace it. 2 of my carbs are close to the same shade and 1 is noticably different and all the pieces went through the process at the same time. Oh, and they will start to fade also. here's a pic of mine that I have been running since May of this year, the pic makes them look better than they actually do. The OP's carbs look way better so I think I would just flat clear them or something.

    1927graham likes this.
  17. Russco
    Joined: Nov 27, 2005
    Posts: 4,132

    from Central IL

    I had some 94's done by a guy in Indy a few years ago they were chemically dipped I think with alodine, they looked great and seemed to hold up well although I sold the car about a year later. I can't remember the shops name but at one time he shared a building with Thom Opof (Godspeed Rides) maybe someone will know who it is.
  18. Don's Hot Rods
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 8,319

    Don's Hot Rods
    from florida

    When I did the trips on my Olds engine I got a lot of good advice on here on what to do. I ordered a kit from Aviation Spruce, Alodine and an etch liquid. The etch did great but when I dipped the carbs the color stayed natural pot metal instead of the gold I wanted. Turns out I ordered the WRONG alodine, I ordered the clear instead of what I think they call Bronze, or something like that. But after looking at them I actually liked the sort of natural look and just left it.

    I just sent my 750 Holley to All Amerian Carbs in Orlando, Fl to have it rebuilt and dyed. Carbs come back looking like brand new and the cost is about $225 a carb. My Son had the three Rochesters on his Olds done by them and they were perfect.

    But here are my carbs that I did myself:



    BTW, love that pickup, it looks great as is.

    1927graham likes this.
  19. The linkage is not progressive, I'm running the front and back two carbs, the centers are just taking up space. This carb set up ran well, though rich, addressing that this winter, got everything apart, doing away with the power valves, should help.
  20. Not the subject of your post....but I too, think your truck is perfect.

    As always, the best of luck.....and as always....I wish it was mine, mine, mine, mine I tell you !!!! :)
    lothiandon1940 and 1927graham like this.
  21. I don't believe you'll want to go away with the power valves - as they do serve a very good purpose (to add more fuel under heavy load). What you should consider doing is putting the right power valves that match your driving style and amount of vacuum that the engine creates. Basically, you'll need to use power valves that actuate at a much lower vacuum - so they're not dumping too much fuel . . . all the time, or too early.
    1927graham likes this.
  22. I tried the 2.5's still not happy with them, something for me to work on this spring. I appreciate your input.
  23. We used the spring clamps in the early 60's and hated them, of course we didn't have the proper pliers. I'll try to find a source for them on line. I like your thoughts about the heater connections, never thought about that. This is the first car I've built since the 70's, interesting that hot rods have come back full circle, traditional, if you will, much better ways of doing things now. Appreciate you thoughts, helping me to get back to building correctly, if you were my neighbor, we'd be drinking a lot of beer!!
  24. I like the natural look as well, I probably have some Alodine in the shop, from my aviation days.
  25. i've got some edelbrock carbs with the shiney (endurashine?) coating, if i bead blast them will that remove the coating? i'd like to tint them the gold color.
  26. 1927graham likes this.
  27. von Dyck
    Joined: Apr 12, 2007
    Posts: 678

    von Dyck

    As well, graham, all four 94s are synchronized on my 324 Olds. I use a single idle speed screw on the linkage and have had it idling 400rpm even with a "lumpy" cam. I have it idling at 600rpm (hot) for everyday driving. Works fine for a fluid coupling Hydro.
    1927graham likes this.
  28. von Dyck
    Joined: Apr 12, 2007
    Posts: 678

    von Dyck

    I picked up an Australian manufactured device a few weeks ago that will make a tight and very tidy hose clamp using wire. I want to use this tool on my next build. Maybe our Ausy HAMBers have used one and can chime in here.
    1927graham likes this.
  29. if/when you start blasting, use soft media, like sugar sand etc etc , carbs are delicate. The chrome will turn gray very quickly but its not removed yet. If they were mine and I wanted the powder off, I would probably get an old pot and put some aircraft paint stripper and dunk it (after its disassembled of course) then wash and scrub it clean with soap and water and soft bristle brush when done, then bake them up to 400 to clean the pores of the metal and dry em out, cool them down and dye away.
    1927graham likes this.

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