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Technical Canted B Pillars and Glass

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by Chop50, Mar 7, 2019.

  1. Chop50
    Joined: Jan 16, 2006
    Posts: 48

    Chop50
    Member

    Hi All,
    I am building a chopped 50 Tudor with canted B-pillars. I am now attempting to make glass patterns for the doors and struggling with a way of getting the glass follow up the slanted B-pillar.
    Any thoughts, tips, tricks on how to best do this? I know there are a lot of chopped shoebox fords with this setup.

    Thanks, Steve
     
  2. Cree
    Joined: Jun 13, 2017
    Posts: 68

    Cree
    Member
    from Montana

    This is not what you are asking about but it's an easy solution: on my '51 Tudor with a 3-1/2" chop and angled pillars I just had rear of door windows cut at same angle as B-pillar. It rolled straight up and down as normal and fit well... just caution passengers to avoid slamming the door with the window halfway down as the glass is unsupported at rear. I ran it that way for 25 years with no breaks.
     
  3. Chop50
    Joined: Jan 16, 2006
    Posts: 48

    Chop50
    Member

    That's kind of what I have been trying to do, the arms that attach to the bottom of the glass channel move and it seems as though the glass will not ride up and down properly unless the glass has some contact with the rear glass channel(by B pillar). Am I missing something?..
     
  4. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 5,429

    BJR
    Member

    You should have some straight glass riding in the back channel that you can't see, to guide the glass when the window is all the way up. At least the amount of the chop.
     
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  5. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 13,587

    alchemy
    Member

    Basically just chop the glass at the top back corner. Leave it long down inside the door, so you will have a few extra inches riding in the channel to keep it in place.
     
  6. BJR and alchemy know what they are talking about. There's your correct answer.
     
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  7. Cree
    Joined: Jun 13, 2017
    Posts: 68

    Cree
    Member
    from Montana

    Yes. And you may have to space outward the run channels inside the door due to roof being narrower. This may have effect on depth of the glass.
     
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  8. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 13,587

    alchemy
    Member

    Definitely check what Cree is talking about. If you tilted the posts toward the middle of the car any when bringing the top down, you will need to adjust the lower end of the channels. Stick a straight edge in there and make sure it's a straight run from top to bottom for that glass. And, if it's drastic (more chop = more angle) you might need to fiddle with the location the window winders are mounted. Their attachment points might need some shimming to put them in line with the newly angled window.

    All this has nothing to do with whether you angled the B posts forward or not. It's just a chopping-the-top thing.
     
  9. COCONUTS
    Joined: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 469

    COCONUTS

    I don't have a dog in the fight, but can you add roll up glass to the side window after the B-pillar. It would have to go up something like on an early Mustang, go up at an angle then level off. Or does the glass have hinges and swing open from the back.
     
  10. goldmountain
    Joined: Jun 12, 2016
    Posts: 755

    goldmountain

    If you get tempered glass, you don't have to worry so much if someone slams the door.
     
  11. Chop50
    Joined: Jan 16, 2006
    Posts: 48

    Chop50
    Member

    Hmm, there is a bit to this. My avatar is the car I am referring to. There is a bit of spring to the regulators. This is a process...
    Thanks for the tips..working my way through this.
     
  12. AChopped1950ford
    Joined: Sep 5, 2018
    Posts: 88

    AChopped1950ford
    Member

    Nice looking shoebox you have.
     
  13. Chop50
    Joined: Jan 16, 2006
    Posts: 48

    Chop50
    Member

    Thanks, I have been building this car for a quite a while, at one point had the roof off and floors out all at the same time. Now has all new floor braces, Bradley floor pans, built new tunnel. Move the rear window a dozen or so times before settling on current location. Just got the driver side door window operating. Lot of fussy work.
    Currently has a flathead-6 with tri-power setup and split exhaust manifold being added.
    Your 50 looks great, like the 2-tone paint.
     

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