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Can't get knob to fit on my shaft

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Jettback50, Apr 30, 2009.

  1. Jettback50
    Joined: Feb 10, 2008
    Posts: 422

    Jettback50
    Member

    I just finished with my new shift knob. Drilled it out the same dia. as the shifter but the shaft is splined. If it was just a flat piece, like the stock unit I could drive it on with a mallet but it is detailed and a little delicate, not to mention the paint job.

    What is the best way to get it on? Should I ream it out and them use epoxy to hold it in place. The way it is now, it will not be loose once it is in place and may never get off. (Kind of like my ex!) Ouch!
     
  2. cafekid
    Joined: Dec 4, 2008
    Posts: 380

    cafekid
    Member

    Knob shaft problems........... Who do we look like dr. Ruth:D
     
  3. cafekid
    Joined: Dec 4, 2008
    Posts: 380

    cafekid
    Member

    ok in all seriousness i had the same problem on my ranger when i changed the knob. all i did was drill the knob out a little bigger and i jb welded that bastard on..... only problem was a week later my trans blew up and i couldnt pull the shifter boot off the shifter to separate it from the trans so i would suggest some kind of wax or something on the splines first
     
  4. ardunpinto
    Joined: Dec 12, 2007
    Posts: 173

    ardunpinto
    Member
    from WACO tx

    try running threads on the shaft. It prolly has a fine spline and you should be able to get it to hold some threads. It may not be perfect but with a little loc-tite should stay in place for a while, then repeat. or try Silicone it will hold and you can get it back off if needed
     

  5. If your knob came off you're pulling your shaft too hard :eek::eek::eek:
     
  6. Bettlejuice
    Joined: Apr 27, 2009
    Posts: 481

    Bettlejuice
    Member
    from WV

    That's what I was going to suggest as well... Even if you have to take the shaft down to a smaller diameter than the hole in your knob, get some of that Quik-Weld stuff (the 2-part gray stuff in the clear plastic tube that you cut of and work the inner goop and outer goop together), put some around the diameter of the shifter knob hole, then put it on your newly threaded shaft. Once it sets up, you can just unscrew it back off (it'll come off), sand off any excess, and now you have a knob that is perfectly threaded to match your shaft. I can say for sure it does work, I've done it numerous times with success. Hell, for that matter, you could probably do the same thing with the splined end, just put some light oil or something on the splines so that the epoxy will take the shape of the splines, but not actually get glued to them. Just an idea, I'm gonna use the oh-so-original pool ball on the end of a disguised Hurst Comp+, mainly because I have an extra set of pool balls layin' around the house!

    So what's your knob look like? I loved that thread a few days ago with everyone showing off what they had. Makes me wish I was artistic enough to pull something like those off.
     
  7. Hoptup Jalop
    Joined: Sep 29, 2004
    Posts: 1,118

    Hoptup Jalop
    Member

    i'm confused...i thought that was the idea ...to get the knob off by pulling on the shaft:confused:
     
  8. Jettback50
    Joined: Feb 10, 2008
    Posts: 422

    Jettback50
    Member

    O.K. Option one. If I drill out the hole to the diameter of the splines, would you use jb weld or 2 part epoxy?


    The knob is cast resin and does not hold threads well by itself. I used an insert on the last one.


    Option two. The splines run parallel to the shaft and only cover the second quarter of the area. If I tap it the hole will be so large in the first 2/4 you will be able to see it and silicone is not firm enough to make up for the lost material.

    I'll show pics once I get it together.
     
  9. Bettlejuice
    Joined: Apr 27, 2009
    Posts: 481

    Bettlejuice
    Member
    from WV

    For stuff like that I like that Quik-Weld, it's about the consistancy of Play Dough so it stays where you put it. I just used some of the plastic version to refinish my Galaxie's steering wheel.
     
  10. Bettlejuice
    Joined: Apr 27, 2009
    Posts: 481

    Bettlejuice
    Member
    from WV

    I'm a dumbass, I'm getting the names jumbled up... Quik-WELD actually IS JB Weld, it's just the fast dryin' kind. Quik-STEEL is the stuff I use for various random stuff.
     
  11. hotrod40coupe
    Joined: Apr 8, 2007
    Posts: 2,559

    hotrod40coupe
    Member

    I picked up some really cool shit at SEMA last year. It's called Plastex and it works great on those plastics that you can never seem to be able to glue together. It makes great thread repairs and just might be the right stuff for your application. here is their website
    http://www.plastex.net/
     
  12. GTS225
    Joined: Jul 2, 2006
    Posts: 1,175

    GTS225
    Member

    How about threading the shaft, (fine thread, preferably), then overdrilling the base of the knob. Epoxy an appropriately threaded nut into the knob, and PRESTO!....a threaded shift knob that matches your shifter.

    Roger
     
  13. cuznbrucie
    Joined: May 1, 2005
    Posts: 2,567

    cuznbrucie
    Member

    The fast setting JB Weld is called *JB Quik*.....just used some today....can't live without it.....

    CB
     
  14. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,428

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage

    Can't get knob to fit on my shaft

    hahahhaaahhahha....wrong web site pal
     
  15. Bettlejuice
    Joined: Apr 27, 2009
    Posts: 481

    Bettlejuice
    Member
    from WV

    Man, I just can't get it right... The saddest thing is, I used those 2 exact products redoin' my steering wheel; I used the Quik-Steel to fill in the bulk of the cracks and used the JB Quik to finish filling, then hit it with a Dremel.

    I'm just gonna use the word "glue"... It's just all glue now.
     
  16. dabirdguy
    Joined: Jun 23, 2005
    Posts: 2,404

    dabirdguy
    Member Emeritus

    Wrong place to look for a knob job.
     
  17. 35Chevy.com
    Joined: Nov 27, 2007
    Posts: 542

    35Chevy.com
    Member
    from New Jersey

    Get a can of air from the stationary store hold it upside down spray the handle the cold may shrink it enough to slide the knob on.

    Gary
     
  18. L.A.-Bar
    Joined: Oct 23, 2007
    Posts: 113

    L.A.-Bar
    Member
    from Lforida

    My problem is similar but opposite: I can't find a shaft for my knob..............sorry.
     
  19. That Shaft is a bad mutha...
     

    Attached Files:

  20. crackernutz
    Joined: Mar 21, 2007
    Posts: 407

    crackernutz
    Member
    from tx

    holy shit. i laughed
     
  21. Lobucrod
    Joined: Mar 22, 2006
    Posts: 4,122

    Lobucrod
    Alliance Vendor
    from Texas

    sounds like a personal problem to me!
     
  22. MissPrint
    Joined: Sep 11, 2008
    Posts: 760

    MissPrint
    Member

    Shut yo mouf. . .I'm talkin' bout Shaft. . .;):p

    Seriously, tho. . I used a two part, slow drying epoxy to put my glass shifter knobs on. . .was concerned that a fast dry would heat up and crack the glass. . .of course, they're NEVER going to come off my car. . .EVER. . .but I'm OK with that :D
     
  23. my shaft has a knob on the end so's my hand don't fly off.

    waaaaaait a minute......

    anyways, I would size it close, very little tolerance, clean it good w/ acetone and push it on with a small amount of epoxy and be happy.
     
  24. I AM NOT going there.
     
  25. Jettback50
    Joined: Feb 10, 2008
    Posts: 422

    Jettback50
    Member

    Who you callin' pal, Buddy?
     
  26. RichG
    Joined: Dec 8, 2008
    Posts: 3,919

    RichG
    Member

    There are some seriously deranged people on this board.

    I feel so at home here:D

    Oh, and yeah, I'd try threading the shaft and going from there...
     
  27. Jettback50
    Joined: Feb 10, 2008
    Posts: 422

    Jettback50
    Member

    Alright! I got it. Thanks for the advice. Here's how I did it.

    I baked it for 30 min at 200-225 and let it cool overnight to lock in the finish. Then the next morning, with the temps in the 40's I heated the mount point up with a heat gun and eased it on, being careful not to hurt the paint and keep the heat off of my shaft. Voila!
     

    Attached Files:

  28. RichG
    Joined: Dec 8, 2008
    Posts: 3,919

    RichG
    Member

    That is a very cool shift knob dude!
     

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