Technical Can't get brakes bled in the front.

Is it possible that your brake pedal is adjusted such that it is not allowing the mc plunger to fully return and therefore not sending a fulll charge of brake fluid to the front brakes?

As you're bleeding is the resevoir for the front brakes going down at a rate that you would expect. Are you getting any fluid at the front bleeders or just air?

Can you reverse the lines on the mc so the rear brake lines plug into the ports currently servicing the fronts and vice versa...try to bleed. That will allow you to isolate whether you have an mc problem...or an issue downstream.

 

Did you use through the frame line fittings like these https://www.jegs.com/i/SSBC/884/A0768/10002/-1 some are made with the hole the size of the fittings instead of reduced to the size of the line making it hard to get air out.

 

The very first thing to be sure of is if the master cylinder can be fully stroked before the pedal bottoms out.

 

So you are NOT USING this style? Let me ask this. At the Master Cyl. the hard line to the front brakes. What is the first place the new line stops? Maybe a photo would help.
The Wizzard

 

Holy crap!! This works . I'm starting to get pedal. Need to get more brake fluid, but it looks like this will do it. Thanks so much for the tip.

 

I want to thank you all for the tips. Some I knew, some were new to me. But the teflon tape on the bleeder was the one. Thanks prewarcars4me.

 

Glad it worked for you. Only learned that myself from having been there before a few years (ok, decades) back.

 

No mention has been made of inline residual valves, front and rear.


Phil

 

Just an observation, but why do 90% of brake issues here involve a Corvette style master cylinder?

 

Because the new generation of Old Car guys don't know how or want to use the Search Button, or maybe it's because they just want the "Old" old car guys to still feel useful. I bet since I came on board here there has been over 100 posts for Help me I can't get my brakes to something something something. Still feels good to help them out.
The Wizzard

 

I like to help people out and have lots of years of fixing old cars under my belt. I go with what I know and it serves me well.

 

I agree, also I never tell anyone to do or try something I haven't done myself with good results. Way back when I was learning we didn't have as many options of parts to use so we didn't have as many opportunities to Screw up.
The Wizzard

 

That's it, now there are so many new ways for a brake job to go bad. I like the ones where they do rear disc conversions, takes woes to a new level. I avoid residual valves unless for an under-floor master situation, some guys like them and maybe their cars do stop.

I was talking to another '59 Ford owner last night. My car is far from being stock but his is bone stock. His single master and drum brakes are new but he did ask about discs. I told him to get some miles on the drums before he gives up on them.

 

I went through a Drum Brake resolution for a friend just a couple weeks ago on a 51 Ford. He had taken the car to a reputable shop a month prior and just didn't like the results. My friend said everything is New but it just don't stop very good. He advised to add Disc on the front by the Shop. I removed a front Hub and showed him the Problem. This Quality Brake shop had not done a complete job. This is a huge issue in the Brake Shop industry and probably nation wide. No one Arcs shoes to match the drum anymore. His new shoes had about 30 percent contact pattern on them. No wonder it wouldn't stop. I took them to a real Shop and had all 4 corners arch matched to each drum. He did a nice firm test stop and nearly eat the steering wheel as I slid off the seat. He just about Shit! He also no longer is interested in Disc Brakes. You might mention this to your new 59 Ford friend.
The Wizzard

 

I may be new to this HAMB page. But I'm not a new generation wrench. Wish I was cause getting old sucks. Sometimes the obvious is overlooked.

 

I feel it too. I'm Old enough that I'm overlooking the obvious again more than I want to accept. Still beats the options.
The Wizzard

 

It was easier back when they sold oversize brakes that had thicker linings. Now if you turn the drums and arc the shoes, half of the lining is gone in the middle of the shoe. It's often cheaper to replace the drum than turn it on newer vehicles. Same with rotors. Unfortunately parts for older vehicles aren't as readily available. 16.5" x 7" brake drums for semi trailers and trucks are often cheaper than drums for old vehicles.