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Technical Can't get brakes bled in the front.

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Oldschool Rodder 62, Jun 12, 2018.

  1. On my 32 Ford, all the components are new. I got all the air out of the rear. Can't get it out of the front. I even changed out the master cylinder. I never ran into this before. Suggestions?
     
  2. pprather
    Joined: Jan 10, 2007
    Posts: 650

    pprather
    Member

    Describe what you are using for front brakes, please.


    Phil
     
    F&J likes this.
  3. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,170

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    32 Ford brakes don't use fluid. They are mechanical. ;)
     
  4. Jalopy Joker
    Joined: Sep 3, 2006
    Posts: 19,507

    Jalopy Joker
    Member

    pics would help too - also, what steps are you using to bleed system - bench bled M/C?
     
    Unkl Ian likes this.
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  5. Details, Man.
    Need details.
     
  6. Tickety Boo
    Joined: Feb 2, 2015
    Posts: 781

    Tickety Boo
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    What size bore is the master cylinder v/s bore size of front wheel cylinder.
    I once tried to use a Mustang II master cylinder conversion kit on a 48 Ford, the 9/16s master bore could not fill the big 1 1/8 - 1 1/4 wheel cylinder bores with out several pump ups.:oops:
     
  7. You haven't given us enough info to be of any actual help for ya. What is your system and what all is in the plumbing of it?
    The Wizzard
     
  8. Rustygt
    Joined: May 18, 2014
    Posts: 122

    Rustygt
    Member
    from Emeryville

    Make sure the car is on the ground, level and not on jacks, especially the front. Bleed again, far-est from mc then in rotation.
     
  9. 4wd1936
    Joined: Mar 16, 2009
    Posts: 570

    4wd1936
    Member
    from NY

    If using calipers be sure the bleeders are at the very top. If not bleed with the calipers unbolted with a block between the pads, then the bleeders can be turned to the top.
     
  10. egads
    Joined: Aug 23, 2011
    Posts: 199

    egads
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Maybe try something like this? 35297181_2527782164114342_2069988805753962496_n.jpg
     
  11. greg32
    Joined: Jun 21, 2007
    Posts: 1,669

    greg32
    Member
    from lemont,IL

    Get a hand operated vacuum bleeder kit. Cheap. It sucks the fluid thru the calipers/wheel cylinder.
     
  12. oj
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 5,690

    oj
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Let me guess, MC in floor and faces the rear of the car? rear brake plumbing comes from the front bowl and the front brakes come from rear bowl because you didn't want to cross the brake lines? That'll put just a minimal squirt to the front that would be intended for the rear and you'll have strong stream of brake fluid at the rear that is intended for the front. Just a swag, probably wrong, without pics you know.
     
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  13. Street Is Neat
    Joined: Oct 11, 2011
    Posts: 131

    Street Is Neat
    Member
    from Hat City

    Don’t use the bleeders , losen the fitting from your brake line to your well cylinders at the problem wheel and you will get the air out .
     
  14. I HAVE GM SINGLE PISTON DISCS
     
  15.  
  16. I'll give that a try in the am. I'll let you know. thanks
     
  17. Grabbed one from NAPA just keeps sucking air a a bit of fluid. Refill cylinder before it emptys and do it again and again........I find no leaks, can't get any pedal
     
  18. Duh for real ?
     
  19. You still haven't supplied details.
     
  20. Thanks. I've done this several times. I bench bled the m/c before instal maybe I did that wrong?
     
  21. OK . All new stuff. 3/8 steel line , vette m/c , wilwood proportioning valve , GM discs all 4 corners. M/C under the floor. Front cylinder of m/c goes to front brakes, rear to rear. Started bleed right rear, left rear . right front to left front. all air out of rear. Front can't get air out. I did bench bleed the m/c. Maybe I did not do it right?
     
  22. GM single piston . All new stuff.
     
  23. If there are no leaks and you are having to add fluid to the master, you are getting it, just slowly. One reason might be when you crack the bleeder and pull vacuum, sometimes it pulls air past the bleeder threads instead of fluid through the lines. Try a little teflon tape on the bleeder threads.
     
    trollst likes this.
  24. trollst
    Joined: Jan 27, 2012
    Posts: 1,174

    trollst
    Member

    What I suggest, get a container, dump some brake fluid into it, enough to cover a hose dipped in it, attach hose to open bleeder with hose immersed in container, slowly push pedal to floor and slowly back up, repeat till you see air no more bubbling from container. Or, remove bleeder from caliper, use vacuum to pull fluid and replace bleeder once done. Both work for me.
     
    Tickety Boo likes this.
  25. You say new 3/8" steel brake lines. I sure hope that's a miss print. You should have 3/16" steel lines. Also you say you have a wilwood proportioning valve. Do you mean the safety valve with the barrel valve? In other words the Brass manifold with the dash light switch?
    The Wizzard
     
  26. Thanks I'll try that
     
  27. Sorry it's 3/16. The proportioning valve from my understanding allows you to adjust the way the brakes grab. More rear or front etc. I can't see where that would cause the problem as it is in the line to the rear.
     
    swade41 and prewarcars4me like this.
  28. I have done that. But I will give it another shot. Thanks
     
  29. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 3,639

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Did you use thru frame brake line fittings up front?
     
    K13 likes this.
  30. Engine man
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,409

    Engine man
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    I use an Ace Hardware 1/2 gallon lawn and garden sprayer to put a slight pressure on the master cylinder. It requires a fitting in the master cylinder cover to connect the hose to. You can get covers for some master cylinders or you can put a fitting in the cover and plug it later.
     

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