I was running 6v generator with a 12v regulator in my rpu. It has a 59ab flattie in it with the stock generator. The other day it stopped charging so I went ahead and ordered some 12v field coils. I put them in and it still isn't charging. I'm wondering if I have them clocked wrong or wired to the wrong posts? I didn't think the generator would care, but what do I know? One side of the coils has a ring terminal on it with an insulated wire. The other side is just a bare wire. I assumed the ring terminal was supposed to be hooked to the insulated post in the generator. I did polarize it afterwards by touching the "f" to battery but it did not spark like it has in the past? The brushes looked fine. I sent a question to the person that I bought the coils from but his email says he won't be back into the office till Mon.
Grounded it to the case @Bruce Lancaster All the threads on the subject that I've read have your name in it. Guide me please
Assuming that your regulator is functioning properly, there is a procedure with a generator, called polarizing,, that needs to be done anytime a new generator is installed. Assuming again that you connected the wires of the new field coils correctly, it would be a good idea to perform this procedure. Note of warning. Never attempt to polarize an alternator. Even though the alternator and the generator perform the same functions of charging the battery and running the electrical devices on the vehicle, that is where the similarity ends.. Polarizing a generator, is not a difficult process. The preferred method, is to polarize the generator at the regulator, but it also can be done at the generator. Below are a couple of videos to explain the simple process. The first video shows the preferred procedure of polarizing at the regulator. The second, shows polarizing the system at the generator. Bob
Residual magnetism remains in the generator, if it is removed, or battery disconnected, or regular replaced. So for example a generator could be swapped to another engine without needing to be polarized. Replacing field coils though, that requires polarization! It's also important to use the right procedure. Ford is different than Chrysler. He says in the OP he did that.
Yeah I polarized the generator but it did not spark like it has in the past. I might have clocked the coils in wrong so that the wires would connect easier. Would this make a difference? I assumed that they are just copper windings and it wouldn't matter where they were in the case. Oh and when I took the cover off the regulator, all the points appear to be closed. I can physically move them open but they close back. Is this normal?
If the coils are wired backwards would the generator spin counterclockwise when "motoring" it? I have not tried to motor it but sounds like it would be an easy test.
That's an interesting question. Maybe. What's the procedure for motoring, something like tying FLD to ARM or maybe GND to ARM, and applying battery power? I can never remember that stuff, always have to look it up. Motoring a generator will also accomplish polarization.
I think your on the right track, I havnt much to add other than some people polarize them on the regulator end instead of the generator end. I do think your into something with having the wires backwards. I feel like they will motor backwards
Well, just checked it and she motors just fine. Wonder if this new regulator crapped out already? Reading past threads it seems that I need to add a ground strap from the regulator to the frame as well.
I disconnected the fields wire and positive from the back of the generator. Made a small jumper between those two posts and then touched a positive wire from the battery to the jumper. It motored clockwise like it should.
Seems 90% of the time it’s a ground issue. I’d say add a ground and swap regulators? Save your recite and see what happens? Holy shit it’s finally raining! Get it figured out and you might have an afternoon to go cruise with out baking!
That's possible, they aren't very good assuming by "new" you mean the foreign crapola units. Can experiment and/or troubleshoot with a heavy jumper wire or cables by grounding the frame and/or G terminal of the generator to the battery ground post terminal, or from battery ground to body of voltage regulator. Spool the RPM up to 2000-2400 and turn all the lights and accessories on and see that it is charging under load, measure at the battery posts. Can test the generator itself by "full fielding" it for a few seconds and running it up on the car or bench. Again this is where the shop or repair manual helps a whole lot. Can't remember the connections here either, might be the same as for motoring? Anyway if the generator is serviceable the voltage will rise to say 18 or 19 volts. This proves out the generator and isolates the problem to the regulator. I've had good service with the quality old-school regulators. The innards have mechanical points that need careful cleaning at least once in a while, a couple times a year wouldn't be too much in high humidity areas. Dragging a crisp new dollar bill soaked in lighter fluid through them helps keep the skunge off. To do a first class job needs a set of small curved riffler or spoon files. The cutout relay points might get by with a straight point file. They need to be clean, in the old days they used carbon-tet. Trike maybe if you can get it. If the cutout sticks the battery will backfeed into your new brandy new field windings and let the smoke out.
Fixed! Went through the owners manual and did a few tests. Then I went to unhook the Armature wire from the regulator and the spade terminal broke off. Changed it out and we're charging great. Guess I didn't need to change the 6v field coils anyway, but of well. Now I'm upgraded.
Crappy Chinese wire terminals are to blame. I'll get some better ones for next time it stops charging.
I have always done my polarizing at the regulator not the generator. This may be your problem; if you went from 6V to 12V in a Ford you probably went from positive ground to negative ground. You may have to switch the ground wire on the battery and perhaps need a different regulator. I may even have a brand new Echlin regulator (NOS) on my bench and I am moving so it does not need to end up in my parts box. if you catch my drift. Do you have my number? Check your messages. LOL missed your last post glad you sorted it out.
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