Hot Rods Can you pre-fill a carburetor to avoid long cranking?

Sometimes the car sits for months before I run it, and then takes a long time to crank before fuel is pumped from the tank to the fuel bowls. Are these two tubes sticking straight up the vents, and can I pour fuel in them to make starting quicker?

 

I do it all the time. I have a cheap condiment (catsup/mustard) plastic squeeze bottle half-filled with gas and give it a good shot down the vent (that vertical tube with the angled end in the front of the carb).

The gas and the plastic bottle seem to get along fine.

 

OK, it hasn't run in 6 months and have cranked 10 seconds three times already and no start. Lack of choke doesn't help.

 

As a more permanent fix, I have an electric fuel pump mounted on the chassis, near the tank. After rod sits more than a couple days, I toggle it on for about 30 seconds, before cranking the starter. It fires quickly.
I switch pump off and run on mechanical pump.

 

There are mechanical pumps with primers

It would take a few pumps to fill a Holley. Mike

 

Yes

 

Does drawing fuel through the electric pump impede flow ?

 

Not at all. Have installed several for customers.

 

I'd just pour a little gas down the carb and give it a go.... if your already sitting there and cranking it over and nothing is happening.

...

 

This is my electric pump.
https://carterengineered.com/electric-fuel-pump-p4070

It works fine in addition to the mechanical pump.
I occasionally have a vapor lock problem going down the highway. Turn on the electric pump and the lock is cleared instantly.

 

I used thumb pump oil cans to fill the carburetors bowls. And prime snowmobile alcohol carburetors to start them in cold weather. And a squirt down each throat of the Hilborns if using the starter. Push starting was no problem...

 

Yes I use a high quality glass syringe that I found in a machinist’ tool chest which I bought years ago. It works perfectly. Draw out some fuel from the can and carefully squeeze it into the bowl vent. I do this three times for each carburetor on my Holley 1904. I have plans to install an electric pump but this works great for now.

Jimmy V

 

This is the way.

 

Make sure you clean the hornet's nest out of the tube first

 

I have mentioned this several times, but here I go again. A fuel pump pumps fuel via a spring, all the cam does is load that spring! Constantly turning the engine actually keeps the pump from working as good and runs down your battery. Turn the engine over about two turns. Then let it set for about ten seconds, while the spring pushes the fuel through the needle valve and seat! This takes time. The repeat, then again. This takes less than a minute. Then pump the gas pedal and your engine will fire off. Works every time! Try it!





Bones

 

no choke is no problem, my carb has no choke and it starts every time... First fill get fuel in the bowls through the vents.

Cycle the throttle but not fast- that crap you see on tv when they pound the foot pedal cuz it died on the train tracks is bullcrap. Work the throttle until the squirters shoot down the throat. Make them shoot twice. possibly 3 times (mines a double pumper with Two 50cc pumps instead of One 30cc pump)

Foot OFF the gas and crank it- the closed throttle speeds up the air rushing past the almost closed butterflies, allowing it to pick up more of the fuel you just sprayed in there. Once it fires off, you just need to tickle the foot until it gets enough heat in the cylinder to idle. That's how mine starts year round.

Although in your case of starting it dry, there's no shame in filling the bowls and then giving a squirt of ether...

-rick

 

I prefer spraying with Brakleen (I love that stuff!) and then spin it over. Most of the time...the engine runs long enough for the fuel pump to draw gas into the carb before it uses up the Brakleen. If not....hit-it-again !
(Normal folks just use ether or carb cleaner butt-eye-ain't normul)
6sally6

 

HUH? Where? Except for taking the photo, there is an air cleaner on it all the time.

 

I do the same as @tubman explained in post 2.
After a few weeks most of the fuel seems to evaporate.
(Knowing the volume of your fuel bowl may help avoid overfilling it).
I will now have more patience and try what @Boneyard51 suggested above, as that sounds like the correct and safer way !

 

A small addition. Filling through the vent tube is great, and I'd suggest doing both primary and secondary.
" But, I'm not going to whack the throttle, why the secondary? "

Because they do have a small amount of idle fuel enrichment there too. Otherwise, the fuel in the bowl would get stale and old if you didn't open the secondaries on every drive. Especially on a 4 corner carb like shown.

 

Get a plastic ketchup/mustard type picnic bottle or Hobby Lobby has craft bottles made the same . They work great for that very purpose.

 

I run an electric fuel pump. Switch on, 2 or 3 quick stabs on the peddle maybe a little choke, maybe not. Bang, off and running.

 

Be careful what your doing in a closed garage heating / burning brakleen . Really produces some very hazardous fumes to be breathing . Something like mustard gas . Google the effects , I was shocked at the results .

 

I'd take this advice quite seriously, seeing it's source.

 

i just use an old gear oil bottle. there are always some empty ones kicking around.

 

Dave;
Depends on if the brakeclean is chlorinated or not. It's the chlorine that converts to "mustard gas" under combustion, same reason most "Freon" will do the same thing. & why you don't want to use Chlorinated brakeclean to clean off surfaces just prior to welding. I just use a good *non*-chlorinated brakeclean, & I'm done w/those problems.
Marcus...

 

Recently went to electric fuel pump to solve the cold start problems. One had a Quadrajet which seems prone to evaporation and the other had a fuel line drain back situation, possibly due to a faulty mechanical pump. I got tired of doing the cranking - waiting - repeat routine and it is sure nice to have them fire up easily now.

 

Now C'mon

 

I had problems with that exact part number pump on a race car. Talked to Carter about it and they said it needed to be mounted with the motor down and the pump connections on top. I'm surprised they picture it motor up in what appears to be their information. Oddly (and unfortunately), there was no mention of mounting orientation in the instructions. Now I have a nicely built but useless bracket on my race car's chassis.

Not that this has anything to do with the thread......just sayin'

Lynn