can i use a wood band saw to cut metal?

Thought I'd clarify this helpful post....the original font was rather small.

FORMULA TO FIND S.F.P.M. IS:


MOTOR R.P.M. X MOTOR PULLEY DIAMETER / DRIVEN PULLEY DIAMETER X BAND SAW WHEEL DIAMETER X 3.1416 / 12 = S.F.P.M.


I changed pulleys on my motor and driven pulley on a Craftsman wood saw. Works great. I used a 2" drive pulley and an 8" driven pulley...but i bought a 1.5 drive pulley and a 9" driven pulley to cover just about anything. Hope this helps.

You can buy bi-metal blades cut and welded from MSC.
For this 14" Walker-Turner, the blade was #03166360 8' x 1/2" x .035 "wavy" made by Irwin.
Suitable for metal, not wood, although they will work @ higher blade speeds.
Price check was $43.29. They'll last a long time with proper care.



I bought this Metal/Wood saw at a State Auction many years ago for $285. I had been looking for one for a long time.
It has a backgear + a 4-step pulley to gear box arrangement , much like a small South Bend lathe.
At the auction, someone had purposely put the saw in direct-drive and back-gear at the same time to make it appear as though it were broken or jammed up.
After winning the bid, a guy comes up and made offers to me in increasing amounts, all the way up to $425. I turned down the quick flip and then asked if he'd help me load it in the pickup.
He did, and when I left the auction, got to thinking..."I bet it was him that did the gear trick" LOL

You can also buy cutting wax in a paper tube.
Here's one that's not too much money; MSC Part #: 35438217
Fastenal carries some too, Fastenal Part No. (SKU)3126544

Speeds and Feeds charts are plentiful on the 'net.
Here's one...
https://www.sawblade.com/band-saw-blade-speed-and-feed-chart.cfm

 

I put new "tires" on it shortly after buying it.
These are urethane tires. Very tough. Rockler sells them.


It's worthwhile to have a mounted brush under the table to clear metal chips before they embed in the tire and build up.
What can happen is that the saw blade rides atop the chips and makes it easier come off.

 

That would work for him, if he could find one. There are tutorials on line how to build a gear reducer too. Another thing to keep in mind is that the metal shards will eat the rubber tires on a saw designed for wood in short order.



If you Google "Primo band saw" the auction where he purchased it pops up. Looks like a serious saw, saw he must have some big projects in mind or else there are a lot of cheaper/better alternatives.



With the new rules in effect I'm sure a mod will delete this thread. It would be worth it for the OP to take it to GarageJournal, though. Here's a thread on the gear reducer you are talking about with part #'s and other info.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=144536



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Mine was easy, just added a BIG pulley. Original wood pulley still behind.

 

Check out Ryan's post on The Garage Journal
Converting Craftsman Band Saw to D C Power
Ronn

 

search
Vintage Craftsman Band Saw DC Conversion

 

With all this talk about gear reduction. Just go to Harbor Freight and buy a speed controller for $20. Bought one for my router and it works great. And I never have any luck buying tools there. They never last.

 

You should slow it down to about one foot per second. Jim T.

 

Harbor Freight.

 

The main difference is metal cutting band saws run the blade slower than wood cutting saws.

Band saws for woodcut very dense materials. It generates less heat and in this way can be cut with far higher blade speed. You can cut faster. The wood band saws have one speed -fast.

You can saw any wood on a metal band saw, if you have a nice shape (carbide tipped or diamond) blade.

The metal cutting band saws are constructed more robustly. The metal has to cut far denser and tougher materials.

For cutting these materials need to generate
more heat, that means you have to slow things down to the right speed for particular materials.

It has an adjustable 2-speed gearbox. Most have a chart that shows what speed should to use for what materials. You usually have a stronger blade (wider and thicker).

 

A NEW YOUNG GUY WITH NO POST COUNT,,,GROW UP

 

Wtf ??? Shit-fight over a 16 year old question.
Turn caps lock off and relax.

 

AT ,,MY AGE,,I NEED CAP LOCK TO SEE THE WORDS BETTER,,Mr Grumpy

 

or...
...you could just increase the font size and not annoy others.

 

OK , POINT TAKEN.
But why so cranky with new guys? You flamed me when I was new, and you seem to make a habit of it.
Relax, accept, teach, guide.

 

Caps don't bother me.

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Caps don't bother me either, but old men that think their way is the only way and everyone else is stupid sure does. Get off the computer and get to work if you know everything. Don't hate me cause I'm young

 

It never ceases to amaze me how many first time and probably only time posters join to share their "expertise" on threads that have been dead for years.

 

It never ceases to amaze me that the first time poster has to start somewhere and has a good explanation but gets flamed anyway!! So we just accept the same old high posters changing there starter post with different wording of useless garbage!! We want new blood to carry on the tradition but we don't let them in!! If you want to be a Asshat go over to the bullet, there is plenty over there!! Pete

 

I did it with a speed reducer and the proper blades. There is no easy way.

 

In our piping fab shop in 1996, Milwaukee Portaband saws worked extremely well.

 

The keyboard commandos can be a bit much, but this is the kinder, gentler HAMB.

 

I always thought it depended on what kind of music the band plays.
I've got a lot to learn still
Rock and roll on...

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Ok, I didn't mean to start anything with anyone.

This place really is a gold mine of relevant information, opinions, and all things good about traditional rodding. New guys should always be welcomed respectfully, and guided gently to understand what the HAMB is all about. A little leeway and tolerence with attitudes and points of view should be seen as a good thing. I would not be here if we were all expected to build and drive the exact same thing. Better things to do.

How about we all back off a bit and chill out. I was only trying to point out that ripping into newbies is a bit lame in my view. They will work this place out for themselves quickly, and decide if they want to stay or not. Just remember, it will get real lonely around here if none hang around.............

I was not trying to rally a lynch mob for @wbrw32 . Again..........relax.

So, bandsaws anybody ???

 

Fuck me, you are a new guy! 15 years back you would have had "your ass handed to you on a platter" as was commonly said, for a comment like that.


Unless of course, you're being sarcastic.

 

Oh come on. Surely I have moved up to "relatively new guy" by now. Looks like I will be a really old man before I get to be an "old guy". Hope I can manage to keep my shit together that long.

Who, me, sarcastic ??? Fuck no. I would never poke the bear just for fun. Butter wouldn't melt in my mouth.

 

Nope, next step after newbie is "grenade inspector".

 

Search function tells me I have been a "grenade inspector" for a little while now.
This being post #170, only 230 to go to be a member.........woohoo.
Will do my best to handle the shit until then. Think I can manage.