Can I put IFS in a finished car?

I have a 37 Ford close to done but stock. Rodding it mildly with 8" and rack. Maybe newer flattie or 302 AOD.
Debating over IFS and Unisteer. Bought a complete Fatman IFS from my buddy's project. Can I install this weld in IFS without taking the front end apart again?
Thanks guys, Doug

 

Why would you wanta' change to IFS if the car has a good front end in it now?

UNISTEER???? That's only the steering box (rack) right? It replaces a stock box or a Saginaw box.

I really don't understand what you're trying to do.

I

 

I installed a mustang II in a 56 Chevy pickup without taking the front wrap off--HUGE pain in the ass!!!

If you're going to do it, do it RIGHT the first time, take the sheetmetal off and the engine out.

 

It's not gonna be fun working over those fenders doing an engine swap...or any of the other stuff for that matter.

You've got the car done almost?
Hop up the flatty a bit, improve the brake system with later hydraulic drums and maybe do a 5 speed trans swap and open drive out back.
Unisteer if you must...
You can do all that from under the car for the most part and enjoy the traditional styling.

 

???????

 

take the sheetmetal off, you'll be glad you did

 

Overall, you will spend less time, and do a better job, with the front clip off. Get'er done.

 

Thanks guys for the ideas and support.
I bought the car 90% restored from an older guy. Gorgeous all steel car with nice enamel paint. Next to zero rust. Been working on it for a year, needs glass and interior now. He would not sell it to a rodder (heehee). I am 65 and had an A roadster with 283 in 60's that my brother built. I have limited build skills but have buddy's to help.
Leaving the body stock. Trying to get better handling and braking. I want to add big and little radials to painted steelies for better ride and steering.
I guess I need to make up my mind and get on with it!!!
Thanks, Doug

 

If thats the case I ..I would leave it alone..
Key word (I).....do what you want its yours..man i think it would be a waste to do that to it..but thats just me

 

You will hate the Uni-Steer. They have a large turning radius. Stock 37 steering box in good shape is a damm nice one.

 

If what you've got is set up and adjusted right you won't want to change it, especially if your running radials. Just run narrow tires up front so you can steer easier. 165r 15 on a 15x6 wheel works good.

Don't screw with it... You'll regret it later...

 

I definitely wouldn't go with the fatman setup. Have used their stuff before and it's poorly engineered. It's also true with a couple other companies that offer an aftermarket suspension setup. The majority require adding more brackets/gussets to help distribute the load or else you will eventually have failure in the suspension due to fatigue. They are built for show or the quick drive around the lake on the weekends. Any other car that I build for myself will either get an actual factory original Pinto/Mustang II setup or just go with a nice straight forward straight axle setup. The stock setup you have will work just fine if you do what was suggested with front tire size, changing to radials, and upgrading the brakes. I drive a stock 36 Plymouth that steers nice with the original setup and I am running radials. The front tire size is 205/75/15 on a 7" wide rim. I also have another car currently setup with a 40 Ford straight axle setup with the Unisteer box. Front tire size is 185/60/15 with a 7" wide rim The Unisteer box is very nice and turns very smooth. I did not know it had a larger turning radius untill after actually driving the car a little bit. It could honestly be better but I can deal with that just fine. I can tell the difference between the ease in steering with the Unisteer compared to the stock steering in my Plymouth. Sounds like you got a nice car. Have fun.

 

Do it all the time. I prefer the front fenders on.No rad support or inner fenders but front fenders on so "I" set the wheelbase not the fat guy crapolla destruction manual. Toss the unisteer in the garbage..not worth crap.
Done maybe 8 in 5 years this way.(painted and finished cars/trucks no big deal)
Get somebody with frontend ex to help with alignment specs before you finish weld.......Again toss fat guys destruction in the garbage were they belong.

 

Yes, Fatman is a shitty company. Drop it, add good brakes and have fun.

 

I have had both, dropped I beam and MII. Properly done the I beam performs very nicely, if I were you I would I would stay with a beam axle and updated springs and shocks. There is a wealth of info available on here on how to accomplish that.

 

If you have a nice survivor, it will only lose value with major modifications. Keep it as is and identify a few things that would have been done to hop it up in 1940 or so. Do those and then enjoy it. You'll have a really rare piece: An unmolested original.

 

I would not put the IFS in a nice original car...but it's yours! If you really wanna change to IFS, I would take the sheetmetal off...

 

Take it apart and do it right if you decide to do it. I wouldn't even try to install a IFS under my '36 without taking the front sheetmetal off and the engine out. Far too easy to screw things up and drive down the road sideways !

 

OK guys don't kill me. I have taken the front end off to the frame, engine out and for sale. Found out the kit was not Fatman, Welder Series made here in Canada so good to go. A buddy has a 46 coupe and another has a 34 Vicki with IFS, I like the handling. Stock fat fenders and steelies will hide it. Thanks for all the advice.
Doug