Well, it's only taken another 6 years, but Dad's '28 Victory Six is in my garage and ready to be gone through!!! Dad and my oldest sister will be visiting in May for our middle son's graduation and daughter's 8th grade commencement, so I'm trying to get the car running and driving. Dad NEVER got the opportunity to enjoy the car after the exterior was restored 30 YEARS AGO (long, ugly story including the interior being lost for most of that time). I won't be able to get the interior done, but some blankets wrapped around the seats will work just fine. I need to clean out the tank and blow out the lines, then get a new electric inline pump and rebuild the carb to get the engine running. Pulled the drums and checked the master cylinder- just about empty and one of the front pad springs was broken... will see if NAPA will have a replacement (the brake cylinders match early Divco, so there may be hope)! Couple of questions- - Should I replace the brake fluid with synthetic? and what DOT (if it matters)? - Any recommendations on the pump? This is a 6 volt positive ground system.
Here are some 6 volt electric fuel pumps: https://www.amazon.com/6-volt-fuel-pump/s?k=6+volt+fuel+pump
As said above, DOT 3 fluid. Don't use an electric pump. Rebuild the vacuum fuel pump, they work fine. The electrics will push past the needle and seat and flood the carb. Contact www.myersearlydodge.com for parts Dave
Exactly and good on you Bill. I know two DBs that burnt to the ground because of electric fuel pumps. As I remember William wanted to take his driver's test in this car.
Going to talk with Jon (carbking) about a rebuild kit for the Carter BB1D this week (the car originally came with a Stromberg UX2 and are rare due to "zincpest" and even more expensive because they were also used for Auburn, etc). At some point I will rebuild the vacuum tank, but it was gutted by the person who did the restoration and I don't even know if he gave us the parts back, soooo I'll be using an electric pump until then- cut my teeth driving a '30 Packard with one, so I know to be careful about cutting on/off and disconnecting/removing the battery when I'm not driving the car. Figuring on using a 12v with the 6v system so it runs on as low pressure as possible. Lastly, any recommendations on a brake cylinder hone brand? There are tons of them for sale- I just want to know if anyone has a preference (quality of stones, etc)
Nice car!! Good on you to get it running to take Dad for a spin. I really miss working on cars with my Dad. I have always had great luck with Lisle Tools. I have several Lisle hones, just remember to use clean brake fluid to hone with.
Curious if you know, but we’re all Dodge 6 cyl engines using the same carburetor in 31-32? I’ve one from the original engine that was in my pickup, all I recall is it had a cast iron base, never even looked at who made it.
I know Ball and Ball carbs were popular on dodge and Chrysler products . speaking from when I had my 53 Chrysler 1st with the stock single carb then with a factory dodge duel carb set up . Finding kits was a bit of a challenge as multiple brands where used depending on where the car was manufactured and with what options .
Budget36, if it's an updraft, I'd be interested in it- anything to get closer to what is correct! Variations abound with Dodge, especially in the 20's-early 30's... in the 18 months that they made the Victory Six, there are PAGES of changes/updates that were sent out to the dealership repair shops. Also, Dad and I have found both zinc (zamac) and cast iron examples of distributor bases, carb bases, and starter and generator ends- always on the hunt for the indestructible iron versions
A few thoughts: (1) In 1928 Dodge used three (3) different carburetors on the Victory 6: (A) leftover 1927 Stromberg TX-2 (early), (B) the Stromberg UX-2 (later), and the Stewart (Detroit Lubricator) model 25 (used all year). (2) The TX-2 was early zinc alloy; there are probably zero useable TX-2 carbs left in our solar system! (3) The UX-2 was also zinc alloy; there MIGHT be an original somewhere that is still useable, but since 1959 I have not seen one! There is a gentleman in Australia who was/is? reproducing the castings from aluminum, so a "new" UX-2 could be made from his castings, and a broken original donor. (4) The Stewart model 25 (careful here, as Stewart made LOTS of DIFFERENT model 25 carbs) was brass. It is an excellent carburetor. These have been substituted for the TX-2 and UX-2 for at least the last 50 years. Today, they are quite scarce (you have a better chance of winning an argument with the IRS than finding one), and quite expensive if you do. (5) The OP has a Carter BB1D. This is a universal replacement updraft carburetor. The BB1D (zinc bowl) superseded the BB1A (cast iron bowl) post WWII; otherwise pretty much identical. (6) The Carter type BB series of updraft carburetors were available for gravity fuel feed, OR pressure pumps (Chevrolet specified about 3 1/2 psi on factory installations). The difference in the carburetors is in the fuel valves. I have posted before about the importance on ANY carburetor of considering the relationship of float buoyancy, float pin placement, fuel valve seat orifice, and fuel pressure. From memory (too lazy to look them up), the pressure fuel valve seat orifice was 0.086 inch whereas the gravity fuel valve seat orifice was 0.110. When a customer orders a kit, we ask the application so the customer gets the correct orifice. (7) Records show that early 1932 Dodge 6 (DL) carbs were holdover 1931 (DH) brass bowl carburetors; later 1932 DL's used a version of the Carter BB1. Neither the brass bowl version or the BB1 were ever used on the Victory 6. (8) While not applicable to the OP's vehicle; the Ball and Ball carburetors have been mentioned in this thread for 1933 and newer Chrysler products. These were a Chrysler design, sublet to Carter for production. (Opinion) there were no "good" ones ever made!, and the first one that could be considered average came out in 1939. If any doubt this comment, check the records as to how many variations were tried EACH YEAR trying to make them work! When the "average" one came out in 1939, service replacements for 1933~1938 were issued, using the 1939 technology. (9) And since this is a hot rod forum, (opinion) the very best thing one can ever do with one of the 1933 and newer Ball & Ball carburetors is simply replace it! Jon
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