When C'ing a frame on a Shoebox Ford (or other passenger car), what is the best source for the additional frame material? Also (sort of related), I've assumed using a 4-link w/ bags allows the rear to get lower as opposed to keeping leaf springs. Is that right? Any techs or resources on C'ing would be appreciated. I searched, but didn't find any. Thanks in advance.
Sam check out some of the mini-truck and lowriding sites for some good info. Not our cup of tea, but the S10 crowd seems to have it down as far notching and 4-linking. http://www.s10forum.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=125 http://www.layitlow.com/forums/index.php The S10 forum has some great references and links, you just might have to dig a little. Lay It Low also has some reference to air ride suspension systems, thought the true lowrider guys tend to stick to the juice. Four linking is the way to do it and do it right in my opinion. The spherical rod ends allow total up and down movement without any resistance from the leaf springs. Go with a triangulated set up vs the parallel to avoid having to use a panard bar. As far as notching, you can do it the old fashioned way and use like a 5" diamater piece of steel pipe cut split down the center to get an additional inch of clearance or so, but a tower notch (this is where the mini-truck technology kind of comes in handy) for maximum clearance (I have an 8" tower notch on my 51). I found after we made some notches out of 2 x 3 stock, that the stock frame of the 51 was'nt symetrical so I ended getting a flat steel notch kit. http://www.suicidedoors.com/8-pcStepNotchKit.php This allowed each side to be contoured to the stock frame using a little heat and a big hammer. I originally thought I could get away with dearched leaf springs and 4" cast iron lowering blocks. This combo sure gave me the look I was after, but if I ended up having to change a tire, I would have to undo the rear spring shackle and shocks just to change a tire. This was complicated a bit by the fact that my rearend is a skoach to narrow and I have to run spacers. So to accomodate the spacers, I had to replace the rear wheel studs which was just enough to make changing a tire a 4 hour project. Not what I wan to do while my wife and daughter wait on the side of the road in 90 degree weather. 4 Linking was the answer. This basically lets the rear axle assembly go up or down to the full length of the actual rod that attaches to the axle and the frame. Lastly, when you reroute the exhaust, don't even mess with trying to go up and over the rea axle. Find an old school muffler shop who can run the exhaust under the rear axle and attach flanges just in front of the rear axle so that the last 2-3 feet of the exhaust can be disconnected. Check out the sites I included, they'll go into indefinite detail. Good luck.
try a search on here for 'step notch' or 'tower notch'. i know theres been posts about it, but im not sure what the name of the posts was.
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