"By three methods we MAY learn wisdom" The May 2013 Banger Meet

By three methods we may learn wisdom:
First, by reflection, which is noblest.
Second, by imitation, which is easiest.
And third, by experience, which is the bitterest.


Here is the banger link list .


For the HAMB banger newbies, here are some links to a lot of banger info:

Flat Ernie maintains the monthly link list. Every month is listed:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=161498



Banger basics. another info link list:

http://www.fordgarage.com/

http://www.billsbangers.com

http://www.plucks329s.org/index.htm

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=251717

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=42480

Post #105 of link below shows flywheel lightening dimensions
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=470853&page=6

Model B rod bearing insert numbers
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6992484#post6992484


Engine tuning with a Vacuum gauge
http://www.centuryperformance.com/tuning-with-a-vacuum-gauge-spg-148.html

Adjusting dual Strombergs:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6638461#post6638461

Helpful Model A tools and tips:

http://www.maurer-markus.ch/ford_a/tipps.index.en.html

Elrod's stuck head tech:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=218487

Model A generator to alternator conversion:

http://ejwhitneyco.com/automotive.html

Gear ratio / speed and RPM calculator:

http://www.accuautoparts.com/calculatorfin.jsp


Model A master cylinder mounting bracket ideas:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...73#post4953173

Go here to read the 1931 edition of Harry Ricardo's book "The High Speed Internal Combustion Engine"

http://www.scribd.com/full/40610101?access_key=key-w2bcjicdancrnxypd05


Chevy Banger Stuff

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=463465

http://www.scribd.com/doc/22469332/The-High-Speed-Internal-Combustion-Engine-Ricardo-1931

Post 198 starts a great discussion of the shape of a flat head combustion chamber

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=470853&page=10

Maybe these links should be posted early in each months meeting.

If anyone knows of more, please post them.

 

subscribed

 

Crazy
Thanks for the clickable link. The Sunday modelers will not use your method and they have two or more threads started by different people.

 

two more weeks till elmo
now what else have i forgotten

 

I just got my pickup back together. I found a good rebuilt water pump and fan while helping another friend buy a 29 coupe. I was able to trade for labor on a OT chevy truck. I also got a b head and pump out of the deal.

 

elmo ???

 

New to the banger club! Just picked up a nice chassis a couple weeks ago and popped my coupe body on it. Been busting my ass to get it going and having a blast along the way! Thanks for all the links!

 

Looks like it's going to be a nice week end for it.
Hopefully there will be no wind at El Mirage.

Bring lots of spares.

.

 

my jalopy was a real head turner at the meet today

 

sounds like a new dohc will debut at elmo also.
i don't have any spare parts to bring it has been hell just getting the car presentable

 

Hey fellow Bangers.
I need some education regarding Radiators. For my current project, (Model A Speedster) I am contemplating putting in a smaller radiator. The objective is to lower the hood/cowl line. I have a couple of options, one of which is to move the stock radiator forward and make a new radiator mount at the bottom of the frame instead of the top. That opens up a few issues, like the lower hose being obstructed by the front cross member. But, I happen to have in stock, a brand new all copper radiator for a Ford 8N Tractor. In order to use it, I would need to modify the upper inlet pipe and build mounts, but my question is, would it effectively cool the engine?

My thoughts are that the '31 radiator was good enough but not efficient by today's standards. Although the 8N radiator is about 5 inches shorter and 4 inches narrower, it has 10 fins per inch and 4 rows of tubes vs 6 fins per inch and 3 rows of tubes on the original radiator. The 8N and the Model A both hold the same volume of coolant. They are both the same HP (24), The compression ratio is the same. The displacement of the Model A is 200ci and the 8N smaller at 120ci.

The 8N has a 4 blade fan and the Model a has a 2 blade. On the Model A the fan is quite a distance from the radiator. Neither uses a fan shroud. Although I am planning on removing the fan and installing an electric fan with 6 blades that will be mounted flush to the radiator. So I will be moving more air over a larger surface of the radiator than either the Model A or the 8N.

All in all, it seems to me that the 8N Radiator will be quite adequate, especially with the electric fan. But I am sure there is a great deal of engineering and physics that dictate a proper cooling system, and I simply do not know what it is.

Does anyone have any experience in this area?

 

My '48 8N has a shroud. I would put one on most any radiator.

 

I can't tell you about the rad other than in my opinion either is OK as long as it is clean with good flow.

I can tell you that sitting and ideling or going slow my jalopy runs/ran much cooler with sides, engine pans and hood than without, due to no shroud.

I am converting to an electric fan with a shroud as I will be running with out sides or pans and using a '32 V8 water pump that has no fan.

BTW I had a 69 C20 camper edition 350/350, what a beast!!

 

Got my 32 pu running again yesterday, mostly stock for now!

 

Made an alternator bracket for my home-brew Dodge 46 amp conversion this past weekend. Now I don't have to pull it tight every time I drive it!

Considering one of the stainless timing mark pieces a guy on the Ford Barn makes.

 

Motor just cleaned and painted, it had an "A" head and carb when I got it.
I found the "B" parts to put back to stock. Has noisy lifters and carb floods. Any one know the specs and procedure for adj. float level on a "B" carb?

 

I really enjoy following these threads each month and cant wait to get a banger of my own again....
Thanks all for the inspiration!!!!

 

Thank you for the reply, With the radiator mounted electric fan, that should negate the need for a shroud, other then the one that is built into the fan.. Do you agree? The fan will cover the full width of the radiator. And my gut feel is that it will work as well, but it would suck to build the thing , lower the hood and cowl, modify the radiator cover and supports, only to find out it does not cool adequately and I have to tear it all apart.

 

Should be enough for a banger but not for a V8. I was also using just distilled water and some water wetter that I had laying around but now will run antifreeze for corrosion protection. I also have a thermostat the 160 degree that I got from Snyders that fits in the upper rad hose. It never got above 160 even sitting without sides or a shroud and there was no airflow with the toilet paper test.

I am planning on an electric fan that I have out of a Taurus, small thin and cheap at the junkyard, with a manual switch and a water temp gauge.

If it were me I would have the rad tanked and rodded out.

 

Ford Taurus fans are the best flowing stock fan you can buy.. new they are like 100 bucks

 

Thx,
My 8N Radiator is brand new. I don't believe in the water wetter, but do believe in Antifreeze as it raises the boiling point. I also believe in Distilled water, here in NH we have lots of minerals in the water to start a buildup. Distilled water is only 60 cents a gallon, no reason not to use it. The 8N Radiator is rated at a something better than 4 PSI pressure as well, which I would think will give me a few degrees of boil protection.

Run a gallon of Vinegar through it after I get it back together to descale the engine, add the antifreeze and it should be good for life.

Still would like to hear from anyone who has any experience contrary to my plans.

Thx

 

I'm running a 32 grill cut down 6" on my '27 RPU. The radiator is about 1 gallon smaller then the stock A radiator. Stock A cooling system holds about 3 gallons, my set up holds just under 2 gallons. I run an electric fan and a early V-8 water pump. Driving around in L.A. traffic it doesn't get above 160. In the summer when the temps are over 100 degs, it still stays at 180. I'm not running a thermostat.

Sounds like either way you decide, it will work.

.
.

 

I put an electric fan on my C 20. I went to my local hardware store and for a few dollars picked up a thermostat. I do not remember what it was made for, but I think it only ran under 10 bucks. It had an adjustable knob on it that would go up to 200F, and a capillary tube for a sensor. I slipped the capillary tube into the upper radiator hose, put a little silicone around it and put it back on to the radiator. I started the engine and when it hit the temp that I wanted it to be I turned the dial until the fan started. It was rated for 16 amps so I just ran a battery line direct to it then to the fan. It always ran flawlessly. The advantage was that I could manually turn the temperature up in the winter to get more cabin heat. The whole package with the fan (Autozone) cost me less than 50 bucks. Just be sure to get a thermostat that is "normally open" rather then normally closed. Something like this should work for about 8 bucks:

http://www.amazon.com/Amico-50-300C...33&sr=8-3-spell&keywords=thermostat+capilarry

 

The radiator on my modified has been shortened and narrowed to the size where the cooling system has about the same as CDO's and if the fan switch is left on auto will stay cool enough to cruise. The electric fan was the smallest I could find. I use a 7 lbs cap and I didn't really see any difference with the wetting agents I tried. The guy that did the radiator warned against any thing over 4 lbs but I thought it was worth a try and it worked. I also use a 34 water pump. I bought a bucket full of the early 21 stud pumps at a swapmeet a few years ago.

 

I finally made some progress on my Tub's Banger, so I figured I'd post a little somethin' here...

I got my Police "B" head back from a shave n' a hair-cut at the machine shop, and since I 'had' to take half the day off work to go to the dentist, I took the opportunity to get crackin...



I tore the front of the bay apart and after some ado, got the old head off the banger. What greeted me under that, after a bit of clean-up was this...



...a fairly fresh appearing short block, with clean .030"-over cylenders and pistons. Should do nicely.



Out with the old...



...and in with the slightly less old.



In the end though, I couldn't find my stupid stud-remover-thingy-tool, so I wound up ordering a new one through the local Baxter's. The studs are soaking in penetrating oil, at least till friday when, with new tool in hand, I should start back on it. 'Till then, here's where we left off...



Further plans include a BCCHOPIT "Bugsy Special" Log manifold, a Stromberg 48, a strait-pipe made out of a '36 driveshaft, fed by the stock manifold, and a Windfield-Grind cam if I can find a good core for my local shop to cut on in the near term.

 

Oh, and I'm terrible with this whole math thingy, anyone know what a "B" head shaved .040" on top of a .030"-over block should give me for compression?

...I just want to know how long my babbit should last

 

Not more then 5.5 to 1

.

 

Just put the 4 port flat head back in this car. It will be for sale in a couple of weeks. I think I' m done with hill climbs.

 

What did you do with the 6" pieces you cut off the sides of the 32 shell? I'm trying to raise one back up to stock. And I need about 3.5" to 4" of the lower sides.

 

Sorry Bill,
But my dad bought the grill shell already shortened back in the mid 70's and it had been hanging on his wall until I found a use for it.

That is why it is orange, that's the way it was when he bought it.


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