Projects built lots of cars, but never a 32 roadster...

Good for NH! I could write a book on what they put me through.

 

I work at a firearms company and know all the cops around here anyhow...I plan to drive it to the salvage yard inspection

 

Happy and relieved, stock hood sides fit!
Was dreading the prospect of having to order custom sides - 3 months lead time.

 

Just got the Dyna-batt from Summit, battery box coming separately from Nevada.
I intend to mount the battery box on the x member I installed back there for the rear firewall.
I look at it but just can't believe that that's going to actually start my car over and over again. Makes me laugh.

 

That's where mine is (except it's an Odyssey.)

I also made a spare tyre mount on the X brace.

I note unconventional lower shock mount orientation.

 

Bought my first Dyna-batt approximately 15 years ago, the first one lasted 11 year's. The second one still has plenty of power.

 

Unconventional lower shock mount orientation?

 

Per lower shock mount orientation.

 

Is i t not OK like that? Should I flip them back? I did not put them on like that, maybe the guy who built the chassis did?

 

I’d turn them out so they match the same orientation of the top mount.

 

Yes they should be changed to similar orientation as the top mount!

 

OK - thanks for the responses...especially from X38 for pointing that out. I can see how that orientation would cause binding problems. I did not put them like that and have no idea how they got in that orientation.
When I put the eyes parallel, should I have them both outboard of the kingpin or inboard? Probably looks better inboard, but works better outboard.

 

They go outboard of the perch bolt, per pic of grey car by @RockyMtnWay.

 

Thanks! Good catch

 

Battery mount finished, bought the box from the guys who make the Dyna-batt - made a tab and welded it to the x-member.

 

Finally got me a license plate...

 

How's this for a muffler hanger...

 

I like it. I don't know which grommets you're using or what temperature they are rated for, but I had to change my exhaust mounts after several members here told me that they had melting issues with the grommets they used that were mounted close to the pipes like you have.
I redid my mount tabs and moved the grommets farther away from the heat. The grommets I used are rated to 500 deg. F. From what I learned from some research it's not uncommon for exhaust system temps to reach 500 deg. F.

 

Paul Horton’s welder series…
https://welderseries.ecwid.com/Snapper-Exhaust-grommets-p49808900
A couple of HAMBers recommended and I saw good reviews online, so I went with them

 

Making good progress. What are the cranking amps on that battery? I have a similar one but from Stinger in Miami rated at 230 cca and it came with a steel box. So far it rolls the Olds over easily.

 

They don't advertise or spec by CCA...not sure but there's plenty of HAMBers with the same Dyna-batt. I'll pretty much bet it's the same or similar technology and specs.

 

Finally have the whole exhaust hanging on its own. Was definitely a challenge to get the tail-pipes to exit under the frame rails and get them parallel to the rails. After I weld everything up solid, I'm getting them blasted then painting with Cerakote-C.

 

I'll mention that I welded all of the exhaust tabs on with the high temp urethane bushings in place - got a little funny smell out of one of the short ones, but other than that didn't seem to have any problems... Assuming that MIG welding on the tab near the urethane will get it a lot hotter than an exhaust pipe.

 

Pile of bones ..

 

Went for the Zip riser - will solve a lot of problems, easily clears the oil tube - but maybe not the alternator. Anyone need a brand new Edelbrock short water pump?

 

Going to sandblasting tomorrow morning

 

Just got the crucial stuff welded by Zack at Hot Rod City in Dover - didn't trust my 110v MIG to keep the steering box, brake cylinder, etc. on the car while driving. Zack did a great job and I know it's penetrated. Just waiting on the sandblaster's back-log to clear.

 

All welded up and ground flat. I didn't grind the weld flat where you won't see it (for strength). The cuts in the back are where I pulled the frame rails up to close the gap between the gas tank and the tail pan.
The frame and some other pieces are going to the sandblaster tomorrow and then getting primed... I have a little body work to do on the chassis (where you'll see it) and then it's off to paint.

 

Can you tell me the distance from the center of your steering box mount to the edge of the crossmember? I am looking into what space is needed to do cross steering. What steering box are you using?