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Projects Building traditional T

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Nonamesavailble, Oct 19, 2022.

  1. Nonamesavailble
    Joined: Oct 19, 2022
    Posts: 3

    Nonamesavailble

    So this what I have going on if anyone could help please. 1927 Model T frame, 1930 Model A front suspension, 1940 ford rear suspension, 1949 Merc v8 with 3 spd..

    Will the suspension wishbone mate up? Will I be able to swap the two front suspensions drill weld what I need?

    Am I nuts doing this?

    Any books on this
    Thank you
     
    aussie57wag likes this.
  2. dmar836
    Joined: Oct 23, 2018
    Posts: 269

    dmar836
    Member

    Not nuts at all but the cross members will be too narrow for the A and 40 springs. The A frame is a good middle of the road starting point and preferable as it is compatible with most stuff on either side of it year-wise. Hang the front and 40 rear on that with A and 40 parts and would all still be traditional but that T frame will cause problems with that suspension and PP choice fast IMO.
    You will have to shorted the drive shaft and torque tube if you have the 40 parts.
    If going open drive you'd really be up a creek with a T frame.
     
    Squablow and Blues4U like this.
  3. alanp561
    Joined: Oct 1, 2017
    Posts: 2,977

    alanp561
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    First of all, welcome to the HAMB. I'm glad you're willing to ask questions and you're going to find some very knowledgeable people here to give you answers. That being said, it would be in your best interest to fill out your profile including your general area. I know, in this day and age, that folks are reluctant to give information about themselves but there is probably a HAMBer or two very close to you who would be willing to offer their help. Just saying. ;)
     
  4. oliver westlund
    Joined: Dec 19, 2018
    Posts: 1,839

    oliver westlund
    Member

    I would use the search function a bit and read through 15 or 20 t builds, you will find tons of detailed answers to your questions with pictures! Its been done, furthermore, those are great parts! Anything that doesnt quite work or fit into the end build scheme can be traded or sold to fund parts you do need! Dont let it be overwhelming, the concepts of will it fit are miles behind some of these guys who will simply fab up something to make it work! If it gets to be too complicated, I have a book i believe by cal customs on how to build a t on t rails, it has full sized templates for parts and good instructions. Welcome and best of luck!
     
    gonzo and Budget36 like this.

  5. panhead_pete
    Joined: Feb 22, 2006
    Posts: 3,305

    panhead_pete
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Perhaps go through your house, find anything you havent used in 2 years (except tools) and sell those and hunt up a good Model A frame. Long term it will make life much easier. If you do that look at the Old Yankee kits that allow you to bolt that engine and a suitable transmission right into it.
     
  6. Nonamesavailble
    Joined: Oct 19, 2022
    Posts: 3

    Nonamesavailble

    I can buy an A frame without trouble. I'm 38 I'm retired from the Army I have nothing but time. I have a welder and fabrication skills. I've seen others build with a Model T frame and Model A frame. Unfortunately I have a T and like it to work. Back then they scrounge threw junkyards and put together something
     
    oliver westlund and dana barlow like this.
  7. rusty rocket
    Joined: Oct 30, 2011
    Posts: 4,744

    rusty rocket
    Member

    I used a t frame on my father/son 26 roadster build. It’s what was under the car and was salvageable. I had another set of T rails that I cut and added added to the back to get a kick up and add length to the frame for the flathead. I have a build thread-rusty has a new project. I shows what I did, T frames will work it’s just more time to make it work.
     
  8. flatheadpete
    Joined: Oct 29, 2003
    Posts: 10,317

    flatheadpete
    Member
    from Burton, MI

    23052-1224350258-2417958f3780726486eb7b02284c64d3.jpg
    2x3 Frame under this one...But I also started a '27 Tudor on an 'A' frame. Since sold it but it's still going on the A. It was fairly easy to do and has all Ford suspension hook-ups on it.
     
  9. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 16,425

    Squablow
    Member

    20220627_203217_HDR.jpg

    This is mine, has '40 rear and flathead and a '26 T body with earlier turtle deck, but it's on an A frame. I totally understand the desire to use what you've got and some nice cars have been built using the T frame but (assuming you're using a 26-27 body, you didn't say) they really do fit together very well on the A frame, the T front crossmember won't fit the A spring and with the A frame you get horns on the front which I like. You could add the A front crossmember to the T frame, and you could add frame horns to it too I suppose if you really wanted to, but at that point you may as well start with the A frame.

    The T frame has been done, it can be done, it can be done well and work properly and look good, but you're adding a bunch of time and effort to do it when A frames are still pretty common and cheap. I'm not saying you can't or you shouldn't use it, but a different frame is something to consider.
     
    guthriesmith and Budget36 like this.
  10. Auggie Dawgie
    Joined: May 2, 2019
    Posts: 20

    Auggie Dawgie
    Member
    from New Jersey

    What body is it and are you going to keep the fenders? The best book on this is Vern Tardel’s AV8 book.
     
    Just Gary likes this.
  11. T frame ,40 rear end ,T spring , 37 front tube axle , 40 juice brakes ,v8 60hp and shortened drive closed drive unsplit wishbone, It can be done and it works good .16 inch spokes and commercial tires ( taller and rated lighted light duty 4 ply sidewalls )
    Model A frame creates a lot of difficulty to run full fenders and running boards
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Oct 20, 2022
  12. aussie57wag
    Joined: Jul 13, 2011
    Posts: 506

    aussie57wag
    Member
    from australia

    I love your plans. But I would build a 3×2 box section fram for strength and safety.
     
  13. 2x3 tube with original crossmembers would probably suite an engine with a little more torque .Original frame has never been a problem for me ,and the car has been driven for the last 20 years !!
     
  14. winduptoy
    Joined: Feb 19, 2013
    Posts: 2,945

    winduptoy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    This is my buddy's very nice, well thought out, '27 T on a '27 T frame with a 302 Ford and C4.
    He is the type that doesn't like to be told something can't be done. It was his therapy building it as well.
    He boxed the frame and has a 8" rear end with a drop Speedway axle under it on the front with hairpins. He has coil overs for the suspension under the rear, but I have a T rear spring in one of my A's to lower the rear end. It has an 8" and it has an open drive line...just saying. I know your question was on the front end, but both have to be addressed. I say, start by doing some measuring, sketching, re-measuring...head scratching, creative engineering
    Show us how it is done.... Corbins T curb side.jpg
     
  15. got any more photos of the T touring? I have one like that Nice.
     
  16. dmar836
    Joined: Oct 23, 2018
    Posts: 269

    dmar836
    Member

    The Merc is rated at 110HP compared to the Model T's 24HP or so. While that's a lot for a narrow T frame, I think building a whole new frame is overkill. An A frame unboxed is not uncommon for a t body build at all. Start adding coilovers, panhard bars, hairpins, and all the catalog stuff and you are getting more expensive and needing to be more of a suspension designer. No criticism of those with those parts but he mentioned drilling and welding to fit so...
    OP, you mention "Traditional T". Do you mean a pre-war gow job(despite the engine and rear)? Lake car? Post-war hot rod? Crazy T bucket? Not to overwhelm but picking this early will help guide the whole build and parts chase from the get-go.
    Better specify the era/look now or you'll be talked into a traditional "street rod".
    D
     

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