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Projects Building My First Roadster in San Francisco

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by J.Ukrop, Sep 7, 2020.

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  1. The heat in the headlight feed might indicate that 12 gauge is not big enough for a six volt electrical system?
     
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  2. J.Ukrop
    Joined: Nov 10, 2008
    Posts: 1,760

    J.Ukrop
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    Agreed, but this is a 12V, negative ground system with the only original piece of electrical equipment being the starter.
     
  3. Then the relays would take the load off the switch. Twelve ga. should be ok for 12 volt light system.
    One 12 ga. to feed the switch and dimmer; and another 12ga to power the lights side of high beam and low beam relays.
     
  4. Hey Joey.
    Love this build.
    So cool doing it like you are the kid in 1949!
    Just a suggestion,
    Put the license plate Under the light bar.
    IMHO it looks better.
    P9220010.JPG
     
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  5. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 3,991

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    Well crap, San Francisco isn't safe at nigh now. I'll have to cancel my trip.
    I got a good deal last year on a complete wiring set form Vintage Ford. it is for a '50s car. I'm not sure if Ford wire will work on a Chevy. :rolleyes:

    Oh, just throw the plate away it will slow you down.
     
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  6. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 4,728

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    if using a toggle switch in your rod use a 120v house currant switch... per joe brown...
     
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  7. denis4x4
    Joined: Apr 23, 2005
    Posts: 3,731

    denis4x4
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Colorado

    82042939-50CF-4B8F-8DAA-062F5268D8A5.jpeg 9DADABB0-6762-4D53-ADA3-CC8A774AEF97.jpeg

    Die grinder, 1/2” drill and reproduction step plates.
     
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  8. A Boner
    Joined: Dec 25, 2004
    Posts: 6,020

    A Boner
    Member

    Although the pic is a 32...here is my suggestion for a paint job to use as a guide!
    D7DD9529-3BA9-478D-A699-020C44B8BCCF.jpeg
     
  9. [QUOTE="J.Ukrop, post: 13849382, member: 67255"
    So what's happening next? My brake drums are with Jeff at Moose Motors up north, so once they're back I'll get them installed. I plan to wire the headlights and taillights this week. I ordered my low-PSI fuel pump and regulator today at lunch, so I'm slowly collecting parts. I'm trying to keep the momentum going![/QUOTE]

    Jeff knows his stuff, did the brakes on my roadster. My brother works for him off and on. Good choice for brake work.
     
  10. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 10,598

    Atwater Mike
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    Man...that outside photo reminds me of my roadster in front of Grandma's house in Santa Clara in '56.
    Mine was channeled, but the same young excitement was there...
    From months in her garage to a running hot rod...thanks to the older guys (Hernando's Racing Team) many parts were donated/traded to my first ride around 6 blocks...taking care to avoid the ever-present 'FUZZ'!
    Now it stirs once again...with my '27 T Touring.
    Thanks a lot, Joey...Now I'm regressing to flathead power! (the DeSoto hemi is now 'on hold'... LOL)
     
  11. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 3,991

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    This one has the look. IMG_1230 copy.jpg
     
  12. Beanscoot
    Joined: May 14, 2008
    Posts: 1,987

    Beanscoot
    Member

    There's lots of really neat old relays on the auxion site, here's a couple cool ones for instance (might be wrong voltage):

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  13. I didn't see what kind of headlights you have; but if there is room, I'd put a couple common 5 pin relays inside each shell so they are hidden. Entails running the new power source into each light; but not a big deal. On the other hand, you could get regular bulbs and ditch the halogen bulbs and probably not need relays.
     
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  14. JWL115C
    Joined: Jan 28, 2010
    Posts: 198

    JWL115C
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I changed 12-volt tungsten 7-inch round headlight bulbs to halogen and the specs for the halogens showed less current draw than the ones they replaced. Also aware that others needed to use relays when changing to halogens.
     
  15. If the current draw is the same; maybe there is connection or internal switch problem causing the heat. I have used 12 ga for headlight switch feed more than a few times with no grief. Guess maybe its just the word "halogen" molded into the headlight bulb that I dislike.
     
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  16. 97
    Joined: May 18, 2005
    Posts: 1,812

    97
    Member

    Halogen are more efficient , but only use less power for the same amount of light. A normal incandescent lamp/bulb and a Halogen one are essentially the same , both normally use a tungsten filament, just that the one with the halogen gas is more efficient and lasts longer because the halogen allows the tungsten vapor to recombine with the filament, this allows the bulb to burn hotter and brighter. The thing is that most people want brighter lights , not lower power consumption so that is what the manufacturers produce.

    The coolest most efficient operating lamps are LEDs but they can look quite out of place in a traditional hot rod ...getting more normal looking though , I think there will eventually be some replacement LED bulbs that will fit into a vintage lamp housing and not be detectable from the outside.
     
  17. J.Ukrop
    Joined: Nov 10, 2008
    Posts: 1,760

    J.Ukrop
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    Staff Member

    Thank you, Tony! I dig your A. I like running the plate up top because it's a little bit weird and it looks like something that the local law enforcement would have made a hot rodder do back in the day for no particular reason. But hey, I have odd taste like that. I even like the super high headlights on the Nitti roadster!
     
  18. J.Ukrop
    Joined: Nov 10, 2008
    Posts: 1,760

    J.Ukrop
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    Thank you everyone for your input on the lighting situation. Last night I took apart the switch to see if there may have been a conductivity issue. IMG_1957.jpg
    It seems as if there's some corrosion across the board, especially on the points relating to the high-beam circuit. I'll clean them all up and give it another shot. Also of interest, I ordered a pair of Wagner halogens that match the Wagner that came with the headlight buckets. They a look a tad more traditional than the Sylvania that I got from the parts store.

    Speaking of electronics, my electric fuel pump is on its way. My 1-4psi Holley regulator showed up, so that's good too. IMG_1971.jpg
    Since I'll only be running one carb, I'll attach my fuel pressure gauge to the regulator. It will be mounted inside the firewall, while the pump will be located down low with some sort of heat shield (tbd).
     
  19. J.Ukrop
    Joined: Nov 10, 2008
    Posts: 1,760

    J.Ukrop
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    IMG_1973.jpg
    IMG_1980.jpg
    These two are pretty self explanatory but also super exciting. It was sunny so, on my lunch break, I hopped in and cruised around the neighborhood, past the college and over towards the heart of the Inner Richmond. The car ran great other than me thinking I somehow messed up the electronic ignition by leaving it on too long with the engine off (it ended up being fine). I took these shots in front of one of the Richmond's many architectural gems, built in 1906.

    My goal today was to work on downshifting. After studying a handful of YouTube videos, I built up the confidence to try double-clutching down a hill. And you know what? I got it. Not once but twice!

    It's pretty funny seeing peoples' reactions on the street, whether they're waving, taking photos or just smiling. While I was stopped, a gruff-looking guy came up to me and asked, "It's a 1932 Ford Victoria, right?" I'll take that as a compliment!
     
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2020
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  20. Joey, you are living the life of the kid back in the day!
    I know the feeling well!
    Keep on playing and experimenting with the old stuff as you go.
    Just keep thinking like that kid.
    Do the stuff he would do. Use the parts he could get.
    Drive on streets and old roads he would have driven.
    Sadly my A has already been gone 4 years!
    Sold to a guy here on the HAMB.
    He also "Got it" Entered and was accepted to TROG first try!
    Love your thread!
    Keep it up!
    You are inspiring me to start again!
    Tony
     
  21. Mikko_
    Joined: Aug 3, 2018
    Posts: 339

    Mikko_
    Member
    from Sweden

    How I miss the sun, here the sun haven't been seen for a couple of weeks.

    I like the look of that switch panel, is it bolted only to the column drop?
     
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  22. 51504bat
    Joined: May 22, 2010
    Posts: 2,770

    51504bat
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    Love the picture and everything about the project so far. However IMO and its just that MO, the new style CA plate really detracts from the look of the A. And I'm not a fan of the retro black plates that are now available from the CA DMV. either. A set of unrestored YOM plates would complete the picture. Probably more important parts to spend your money on right now IMG_1980.jpg but you might consider the YOM route down the road.
     
  23. J.Ukrop
    Joined: Nov 10, 2008
    Posts: 1,760

    J.Ukrop
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    So cool that your car ran at TROG! And thank you, that's the idea. Old car and old tools in a historic city. It's pretty surreal sometimes!

    Yes it is. It's pretty sturdy right now, although I may swap out the custom rubber washer for a cut down metal one. Time will tell on that one.

    And it was 72 degrees here the other day, so my roommates and I had to take over the cul-de-sac for some roller hockey!

    Thank you, and I 100% agree. I have these on for now simply to appease local law enforcement. Christmas is coming up, and OP YOMs are #1 on my list. As a side note, I run YOM on basically all my motorcycles. It completes the picture.
     
  24. Regarding the fuel pressure regulator, I think the regulator needs to be between the fuel pump and the carb(s).
     
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  25. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,304

    Runnin shine
    Member

    I am “patiently waiting” to see some black lacquer and a couple good quality brushes getting to work soon.
    Still waiting...


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2020
  26. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 3,991

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    The problem of YOM plates is they are the year the car was built not when it looked like yours. It would be nice to find a nice set of 40s-50s plates if they will let you run them, '39 California plates are really cool.
    On many trips around the west in cool old cars I have found that a lot of people can relate to them in some sort of friendly way whether they now anything about cars or not they like them. There have also been people willing to help when I needed it.. I met a few buttholes too. :)
     
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2020
  27. J.Ukrop
    Joined: Nov 10, 2008
    Posts: 1,760

    J.Ukrop
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    You're right! I'll do that.
     
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  28. Joey,
    I'm not bragging, just encouraging you!
    Here is the car at TROG for the second time in 2018.(Corrected)
    Kevin, the new owner, continued the story.
    He has been doing just what I would have done to the car
    and with the car. I'm still very happy he got it, and love how he continued the story.
    I'm sure he still has a lot of driving to do to catch me,
    I put about 12 years and about 35,000 miles on it!
    I hope I still get first dibs if he wants to sell it!
    Keep up the great story on your car!
    35227604_2216344278390618_8945922144580141056_o.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2020
  29. 51504bat
    Joined: May 22, 2010
    Posts: 2,770

    51504bat
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Nope. CA only allows YOM plates that match the year of the car. No '39 plates on a '30 Model A, etc. Some people do have a set of plates that don't match the year of the car's registration that they display at car shows but they are just for show they aren't legal to use on the street.
     

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