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Projects Building My First Roadster in San Francisco

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by J.Ukrop, Sep 7, 2020.

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  1. J.Ukrop
    Joined: Nov 10, 2008
    Posts: 1,403

    J.Ukrop
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    IMG_1423.jpg
    Getting there. Question: do you guys see any reason to run a relay for the high-beam and low-beam circuits? I plan to use a vintage pull switch for the lights and a repop piece for the dimmer. This is a 12V system. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
     
  2. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 11,776

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    No advice but the hood looks killer
     
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  3. RyanAK
    Joined: Sep 7, 2019
    Posts: 194

    RyanAK
    Member

    Relays made a significant difference in my OT ‘78 Suburban daily driver. Significant. It was important to ME to do it because I was driving hours at a time, on interstates, through deer-infested mountains, at night, in the winter. But for the ‘63 Olds, lighting hasn’t been an issue because that car gets used differently: mostly short, local trips. And although the design of the circuit isn’t the best on either and puts undue strain on the switch and dimmer, that hasn’t been a consideration in MY decision to go relays or not. You most likely have different criteria... different driving ‘life’ of your roadster, 6v to 12v conversion, age/condition of components, etc. I’ll be interested to see what you decide to do.

    Keep at it!
    R
     
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  4. Beanscoot
    Joined: May 14, 2008
    Posts: 1,694

    Beanscoot
    Member

    If you do use relays, perhaps use these old style ones:
    There's lots on the big auction site, 12 volt ones are harder to find but do turn up occasionally.


    [​IMG]
     
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  5. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 3,618

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    The relay decreases the amount of current going through the vintage switch. The relay uses a smaller current to manage a larger current. I've burned up a few nice old 6V switches used on 12v systems but I've never toasted one when I wired in a relay. I don't know if that is the reason or not. A lot of old cars had headlight and horn relays. Cars with overdrives have an overdrive relay. There is also a chance that your lights will be brighter if the switch is not limiting the flow. I don't know a lot about this but I've wired a few cars anyway.:eek: At any rate a relay won't hurt. My experience may also be a function of wire size. The old 6v systems used bigger wire.
     
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2020
  6. If you use a good (not a current low quality imported) switch, adequate wire (12ga) and regular (not halogen) bulbs; I don't see the need for relays. I like to keep it simple. Others will have their own ideas on this.
     
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  7. TrailerTrashToo
    Joined: Jun 20, 2018
    Posts: 776

    TrailerTrashToo
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    Ditto on the 12 Gauge wire - with or without the relays. Vintage switch "might" be OK - if the contacts have not corroded with decades of time in the box... Re-pop dimmer switch is a flip of the coin - how do you predict quality?

    Both my old long distance drivers use relays and 12 Gauge wire. And Halogen sealed beam bulbs.

    Russ
     
  8. J.Ukrop
    Joined: Nov 10, 2008
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    J.Ukrop
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    Thanks for the advice, everyone. Does anyone have a recommended dimmer switch that we know will be good quality?
     
  9. Last edited: Nov 16, 2020
  10. I have been getting old stock brand name U.S.A. switches on ebay. Search with the kind of switch along with nos and you can usually find what you want at a good price. Just looked and saw several around $10 with free shipping.
     
  11. LUTHER99
    Joined: Aug 11, 2011
    Posts: 32

    LUTHER99
    Member

    Great start up video , your reaction was priceless, thats why we do this sh#t , great build good job.
     
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  12. J.Ukrop
    Joined: Nov 10, 2008
    Posts: 1,403

    J.Ukrop
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    Thanks for the input! I think I've figured out how I'm going to set it up. So other than buying some parts, nothing too major to report—except for that I got my velocity stack from Pat Pryor! The inside will be painted copper to match the wheels, and I'll bolt it on when I switch to a downdraft intake. IMG_1448.jpg
    IMG_1434-1.jpg
     
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  13. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 3,618

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    Whoa. Hang on! Maybe you better change the brakes first. :rolleyes: Cool piece, every little thing counts.
     
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  14. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 17,898

    gimpyshotrods
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    I finally got the blast cabinet over to the new shop. I am just waiting on the electrician to get me all hooked up.

    Anybody got some rear backing plates for @J.Ukrop?
     
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  15. Ahem......
     
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  16. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
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    gimpyshotrods
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    Should I come get them?
     
  17. J.Ukrop
    Joined: Nov 10, 2008
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    J.Ukrop
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    Thanks guys. I can't wait to put all the pieces into play.

    So last night was a rainy one here in the Bay Area. It was a perfect time to relax in the garage and tackle one of the longstanding items on my list: installing the hood.

    Before the latches...
    IMG_1455.jpg
    ...and with latches. I think it adds some nice continuity. Maybe I'll dust it off one of these days.
    IMG_1456.jpg
    IMG_1458.jpg
    Other items of interest:

    1) Yesterday I was able to pass the stock wheels and tires on to another Model A enthusiast who plans to use them on his most recent restoration.

    2) I got my chopped Deuce windshield posts today and unfortunately they won't work with the Deluxe frame. I'll be putting them up for sale in the classifieds if anyone is on the market for some. I'll also be getting some Deluxe posts as soon as I can find a pair for a somewhat decent price.

    3) After talking with @sloppy jalopies, it looks like I'm going to be running Rocky Mountain brakes after all! More on that slightly down the line.

    That's all I have for now. Oh! And I did get the passenger door to open, close and latch pretty nicely. Next up, I'll focus on the driver's side and the decklid. One piece at a time!
     
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  18. A Boner
    Joined: Dec 25, 2004
    Posts: 5,798

    A Boner
    Member

    Like the patina on the hood...do a shitty paint job on the body to match. You can probably get lots of tricks for “patina matching paint methods” here on the H.A.M.B!
     
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  19. J.Ukrop
    Joined: Nov 10, 2008
    Posts: 1,403

    J.Ukrop
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    That's the plan! Ever since I got the hood, the goal has been to paint the car to match. Kinda like this guy, but in car form.
    IMG_4004-1.jpg
     
  20. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 11,776

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    I’m mostly familiar with the 28/9 so I could be wrong but I’m guessing your hood latches felt very tight to stretch and latch.

    With fenders there is a “hood shelf” and a block of wood between the frame and the latch base. If you’ve ever noticed little wood blocks under the latches and the hood sides not quite reaching all the way to the frame
    Rail top this is why :)
     
  21. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 2,408

    31Apickup
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    Last edited: Nov 19, 2020
  22. If you need brake parts I literally have shopping carts full...
     
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  23. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 11,776

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    @31Apickup another day another random bit of old ford info learned :)
     
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  24. Or I can bring them to you, doesn't matter. I still have to get them down from their hiding spot on the top shelf in the garage too
     
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  25. 97
    Joined: May 18, 2005
    Posts: 1,628

    97
    Member

    It never stops! 52 years ownership, 57 since I first drove a Model A and still learning every day.
     
  26. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 3,618

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    Love the Triumph in front of the eucalyptus like the ones you described on Yerba Buena. Hard to believe they are not native. Reading your work, I'm beginning to see where your eye and inspirations are coming from. I'll keep watching the build and reading the stories. This build really takes me back. It's good to see you getting so much support from others here and other rodders within striking distance to you.
    I wonder how much Henry calculated he'd save per car by getting rid of the hood shelves? You know that is why the bolts that hold the starter together are the the same ones that bolt it to the engine. Two bolts saved per car.
     
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  27. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 4,376

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    I see a brown school bus seat peeking out in a pic...
    I cut the 4 corners of the back, spread the top 13", bent the top rail down to level... this lets the seatback arch outward like the body does...
    .
    I have 3 seats, by using 2 backs upside down, when finally sewn together should give me plenty of material...
    I like that brown, when together it should look like what a regular guy could do way back when...
     
    Last edited: Nov 19, 2020
  28. Hood looks great! And, I really like the Triumph too... May be trying to get one of those myself soon...
     
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  29. winduptoy
    Joined: Feb 19, 2013
    Posts: 2,197

    winduptoy
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    Just found this thread and you are killing it! That, and you are excited with the outcome...rightly so
    Just for thought...
    I've been running steelies on my mechanical brake Model A's. I use a 3/16" plate that my water jet buddy cuts for me.
    It shortens the stud length a little but not to the extent that it looks like the adapter plate might in your photo. It does make the surface flat to mount your steelies on. The wheels are held on with stock A lug nuts...35 ftlbs torque and rechecked several times after a few miles. Never an issue.
    I can lock up all 4 the second, third, forth consecutive stops with mechanical brakes and new cast iron drums. Henry used steel drums stock and they expand when they get hot and give you brake fade. If you can lock the wheels the braking then it becomes a function of the contact surface of the tire on the road surface. Sounds like you have Rocky Mountain brakes planned in the future.
    Drive the wheels off, put them back on and drive it some more.....
     
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2020

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