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Technical Building a hot rod truck

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by TA DAD, Jan 14, 2017.

  1. TA DAD
    Joined: Mar 2, 2014
    Posts: 1,107

    TA DAD
    Member
    from NC

    I have been putting some stuff together for a build and thought I would put it out here for any feedback. I want to put a hot rod style truck together. I have a choice between some Studebaker cabs, I would probably use a late 40's as I think it has the best looking firewall. I have a Studebaker Champ frame , I want to keep the straight axle , straight frame rails. What about installing a transverse front spring and moving the axle out front ? any benefit/drawback over the parallel springs ( which the frame already has ) So I have the cab, I have the old school frame, I have a BBC/400 trans. The frame has a Dana 44 ? I plan on leaving the front open, some type of fenderwell headers ? maybe set the motor back ? might have to to make it fit. I have a nice grill/shell and radiator for a 32 chevy or I also have the same set up for a 28 Chevy or I have a 34 Ford grill . I like the 32 the best and I guess you could build some hood panels and change the headers. If you closed it up you could maybe add fenders ? I am really looking at doing this out of parts I have, point distributor ( have a tach drive or a stocker ) nothing way out, just a good solid ride. Low Low budget machine ! Any thoughts ?
     
  2. Jalopy Joker
    Joined: Sep 3, 2006
    Posts: 31,179

    Jalopy Joker
    Member

    1927graham and iwanaflattie like this.
  3. Studebaker trucks make nice hot rods but please forget the non Studebaker front sheet metal.

    You will end up with a circus wagon or worse yet a RR. HRP
     
    Blue One, Just Gary, funk 49 and 2 others like this.
  4. We didn't build shit like that in the 60s
     

  5. 1pickup
    Joined: Feb 20, 2011
    Posts: 1,437

    1pickup
    Member

    You asked for thoughts, so here goes. This definitely sounds like a rat rod build. The round cab of the late 40s will not look good with the early grille shells. Do a google search of rat trucks, & you'll see what I mean. If any of the cabs you have include the stock front sheetmetal, it should be used. The fatter cabs of the 40s -5os generally look better full fendered. Going fenderless & moving the front forward with a Ford type spring/axle can work, but usually gets cartoonish = RR. Pretty sure that wasn't done in the 60s. I have no problems with you building whatever it is that you want, and I understand using what you have, but it doesn't sound like a traditional build. Now, a real patina (not painted on), full fendered late 40s truck, straight axle, big block, fenderwell headers, etc., sounds pretty cool to me. It's your project, build what you want. Just don't expect the traditionalists on this forum to like it.
     
    shawnsauto1 likes this.
  6. I can appreciate low budget and using what you have. Not sure if it will end up being appreciated or not. Things that would help is safe quality construction. Try and keep proportions reasonable (avoid looking cartoonish). And of course stay away from the spider webs :).

    Good luck!
     
  7. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 9,817

    BJR
    Member

    Good choice, keep posting as you move through your build. Stude trucks are cool.
     
  8. They have that factory chop look.
     
  9. Looks good so far. :cool:
    Glad you revised your original plan...:eek:
     
    BradinNC likes this.
  10. exterminator
    Joined: Apr 21, 2006
    Posts: 1,695

    exterminator
    Member

    I agree with hotrodprimer,leave the stock sheet metal.Those trucks are cool!
     
    Just Gary and BradinNC like this.
  11. metalman
    Joined: Dec 30, 2006
    Posts: 3,297

    metalman
    Member

    Had to look twice, thought that was a duelly chassis with a weird front rim offset. Now I see what you did.;)
    I dig early Studebaker trucks, glad it looks like you decided to keep it with the front sheetmetal. A friend of mine has a similar year Stude truck that is a duelly, it's on a late Chevy chassis with a 454 and a fabbed 9' pick up box and widened rear fenders. I lust over it.
     
  12. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 3,052

    nunattax
    Member
    from IRELAND

    got to agree with metalman those studes made great looking qwirky trucks
     
  13. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    baker, baker, four nine ... over...
     
  14. ol-nobull
    Joined: Oct 16, 2013
    Posts: 1,655

    ol-nobull
    Member

    Hi. Those front fenders with the way the headlight buckets mount will be awesome. The turn signal on top of fenders is exactly like they were done back in the day for working trucks.
    This should turn out very well. Keep us posted as you go.
    Jimmie
     
  15. Post-war Studebaker trucks are great.
     
  16. Harland grunder
    Joined: Aug 11, 2016
    Posts: 77

    Harland grunder

    Build it bobber style
     
  17. drtrcrV-8
    Joined: Jan 6, 2013
    Posts: 1,707

    drtrcrV-8
    Member

    I realize that you've "committed" to using SBC power, but to the other guys out there : If you look at the motor mount holes in the front of the frame you'll notice that a Flathead with truck waterpumps will be a direct bolt-in, at least for the front, & no cutting the firewall! Was a fairly common swap in the day, & made a bit of a sleeper((very easy to stay under 2500lbs on the street!!)
     
  18. Fortunateson
    Joined: Apr 30, 2012
    Posts: 5,331

    Fortunateson
    Member

    Looking good. I would suggest losing the fenderwall headers though as that is. Gasser look which is cool but shop truck? No. you're almost done just a few details left. LOL
     
  19. ...maybe build it like this...?
    fas 284.jpg fri art 17 026.jpg
     
  20. rusty rocket
    Joined: Oct 30, 2011
    Posts: 5,053

    rusty rocket
    Member

    Must have been a big truck with the way the front fender openings look.
     
    Just Gary likes this.
  21. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 3,271

    F-ONE
    Member
    from Alabama

    I realize there is no real weight up front but it looks like the body is down at the back....up at the front...

    Just be sure to check as you progress. It's real easy to clam shell between the bed and cab or make it like it's back is broke.
     

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