No lie! I have this book, I bought it when it first came out. I have been tearing up the house looking for it. Yesterday, after I got home with the motor, my wife told me, she sold it at the #127 sale this summer! What! She said I put into the pile of books to sale, I told her no, I didn't, she said it must have jumped into the box it's self! Arrr! Now I'll have to get another. Pat
Chevy LS comes in 5.3 litre. Use a carb intake with a carb fuel injector. Readily available in a scrap yard. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Too late man, you already made a commitment. Op, if you are blonde, just whip that shirt off and get your free book!!
So I'm getting that I need, to have higher rpm's. To get there I'll need more cam, and 194 or 202 heads. and around 64cc. Sounds just like the old double hump heads. I just went through a list of 9 or 10 different 64cc 202 heads chevy heads. 3890462, 3917291, 3917292, 3927186, 3927187, 3947040, 3947041, 3973414, 3991492. Is there any of these I should not consider using. They all need hard seat installed. Is there one that's better to use, that I don't have listed? Thanks, Pat
Last three digits of your numbers. 461, 462, 291 all are pre accessory bolt head castings. Speaking as to HAMB friendly aesthetics, ie "true" camel hump castings, these are considered old school and maintain that "period correct" look. The 69 and later heads such as the 186's and 292's are a good start for more performance especially with the larger valves, either way hardened valve seats should be a consideration for street driving on modern fuels.
Nothing special, just your standard 8 incher from GM. Actually it's an NOS replacement for the old finned balancers used on all the high h.p. small blocks.
Pat, I have a set of double hump heads I will let you have if they will help you with this build, FREE. I would not ship them but since you are in TN it may not to bad of a drive for you. let me know if they will help.
I was just in Winchester, Tn to get the motor, we live at the top of the state, in Deer Lodge. I'll take you up on them. It will help me get my wife out of the house again also. She had a surgery a few years back, and they hit her Vagus Nerve, and paralyzes her stomach. It will take a bit before I can get her to ride that far again. But we will do it. Probably sometime after the 1st. I'll pm you when we get closer to making the trip. We like road trips! Thanks, Pat
I wonder if the gray hair I have left will pass, and I will take off my shirt. I'll have my wife apply for me. Pat
Hombre, I just told the wife, and she reminded me that the daughter and grandkids are coming back home from Ohio tomorrow. They have been bunking with us, till she can get a place of her own. She told me it might be sooner then the first, to go get the heads. lol Love them to death, but it's time for her to get her own place. Lets put it this way, we have 6 cats, the only one that would come out, won't anymore! Pat
Ok, I sat down and looked the block and parts over good. I found that the main caps weren't on the block when I picked it up. No big deal, except he didn't mark where each one came off of. I started to put them on and snug them down to try to match them up, when I put the bolts into the rear main, one of the bolts dropped in a ways in. It turns out there is one main bolt missing, and the one main bolt hole is stripped out! He must of taken the threads out with the bolt. I e-mailed him yesterday, but no answer yet. I have been told to just helicoil it. Have anyone here ever helicoiled a main bolt, and it was ok? I can helicoil, I have done thousands of them, when I was in tool & die. But never on a engine block main, or for a head bolt. It also a has a bad rod, which I didn't see. Pistons look real good. Block still has the hone hash marks still visible. The crank has to be turned, I hope it'll clean up #5 journal. I have not mic'd it yet to get an idea of how bad it is. If anyone has a small journal rod, a main bolt, a balancer, short singel grove pulley's, and a breather can (under intake) I'm in need of them. PM me, and I'll get back to you. But it was cheap enough to get. I just didn't think it had all this. He does own a engine & car rebuild shop. He didn't tell me of any of these things. Only that it had a bad bearing, and that the crank should clean up. Every time I forget, and take someone at their word, I get burned some how. Thanks, Pat
Ever ask yourself how does a new rebuild end up with a spun bearing? Well at least one of 87,000 things was wrong. Ever ask yourself why he didn't just put it back together like you're planning? Just clean up the crank and put it back together. Being a rebuild shop owner thats something that he can get done in less time than anyone else.
Alright Hombre for the camel-hump heads!! What casting number are they? I had some 461 heads fully rebuilt with mild clean up porting last year and it probably cost the same (or more) as new iron heads, but I didn't care because these I wanted original Chevrolet heads. Do it once and do it right.
327 block --> when you take it to your trusted machine shop and he will tell you if it can be fixed. Good luck!!
With the sides of the main caps and block webs clean you can usually match up the factory machine marks, it does take some patience, I've done it a few times.
I had set 2 sets of cracked rods all mixed up in a box. Couple shots of tequila and a comfy chair with a nice table. Didn't even notice
We Heli-Coiled a head stud hole in an aluminum hemi block, that head nut gets 160 ft/lbs torque. It was a bear to do, the stud was real long and ties into the bottom of the block near the mains. It worked fine, I would not hesitate to do a SBC main
Pat, Glad to hear that they may be of use to you. Don't worry about the time frame, they are yours and can set in the shop for as long as you need them to, just let me know when you are coming.
A customer brought a '66 vette with the bad bearing to him. When the opened it up, the customer had him change out the motor. He didn't want to deal with it, as he just had it rebuilt by some one else. So I'm told. I'm going to install a helicoil myself. I trust myself, as much as I would anyone else to do it right. I have the stuff right here to do it. I just need to get a 7/16 helicoil, and a helicoil tap. Pat
Hi perf will be 8" dia. X 1 3/4 thick, a regular 350 is 8" X 1 1/2, or you can use one from a 267, 305, 327, or some low horse 350, those are only 6 3/4 dia. There are differences in the timing mark in relation to the broached keyway as well as different timing tabs on the timing cover. Some balancers may be too big in diameter for the timing tab on your cover. Wrong mark or tab, no problem. Use the positive stop method to find TDC and make or buy a new tab
The Jalopy Journal
