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Hot Rods Building a 327

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by HemiTCoupe, Dec 6, 2016.

  1. HemiTCoupe
    Joined: Apr 4, 2013
    Posts: 190

    HemiTCoupe
    Member
    from TN.

    I would like some opinions, and suggestions.

    I want to build a 327, I have a chance to buy a '67 327 2-bolt block with forged crank, and no rods, or pistons. I only have a small budget, so I'll have to get parts as I go. I would like to use a 283 crank and make a 302. I like the short stroke, but it's not set in stone to change it. I have no idea on what cam to use, or which heads would work out good for it. I know I can't afford aftermarket ones, so I'd have to find some good oem type to use. I would like to use a 3x2 setup, or a 2x4 tunnel, but I really don't want to build a high rev'r. I do want it to have some balls to though, and a good sound. I'll be using headers, and not manifolds.

    It's going into my '27 Tcoupe. I am going to be using a 700r4, with a 28-29" tall rear tire. I don't know what gears I'm going with yet. I just know that the 275's that are in it, won't work for what I want. lol I don't know what a good gear to use with a 700r4, and I am willing to go with a stall converter, but nothing that's not street friendly. I've thought of going with a tranny brake, but never used one, and don't know if I need one. Instead of using a line lock. You just never know when you'll need to use one.

    I am not going to daily drive it, but I do want to drive it on weekends. Town is 20+ miles from me though.

    Thanks, Pat
     
  2. Lobucrod
    Joined: Mar 22, 2006
    Posts: 4,076

    Lobucrod
    Alliance Vendor

    When I built the last 302 I could not find pistons with less than 11:1 compression ratio. If you want to run pump gas Id build a 327 so the CR can be kept down to a pump gas level.
    Also '67 327 is a big journal block so a 283 crank will not fit unless expensive spacer bearings are used.
     
  3. HemiTCoupe
    Joined: Apr 4, 2013
    Posts: 190

    HemiTCoupe
    Member
    from TN.

    I thought '68 was the large journal?

    Pat
     
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  4. Fordors
    Joined: Sep 22, 2016
    Posts: 2,087

    Fordors
    Member

    That is correct. If it were me I'd use the 327 crank, I think the longer stroke makes a better street engine. JMO.
     
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  5. 55chevr
    Joined: Jul 12, 2008
    Posts: 959

    55chevr
    Member

    I love 301 cu in Chevy motors. Bearings are available to run a small journal crank in a large journal block. The 4" x 3" Chevy motors were known a 301-s until the Z-28 came out as 302.
    Joe
     
  6. you'll need at least 3.73:1 gear ratiofor the overdrive. Or keep the 2.75:1 and run a non over drive trans. The non locking torque convertor is also torque multiplier and can over come the tall gears.
     
  7. Blues4U
    Joined: Oct 1, 2015
    Posts: 3,720

    Blues4U
    Member
    from So Cal

    You say you want to build a 302, but then you say yuou don't want to build a high rev engine, which seem to be contradictory. Use the 327 crank, the longer stroke will help you tune it for better low end torque, and strong top end without having to twist it's tail too tight.
     
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  8. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 12,067

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    The first purchase should be some books wrtten by one of the best.
    David Vizard
     
  9. If it was mine, I'd go with a set of flat-top pistons and a pair of 64CC aluminum heads...a set of high perf original "cloverleaf" 327 chevy rods will stand up in a street engine just fine. I'd choose one of those lumpy "Mutha Thumper"cams with headers and low restriction mufflers. A single Holly 750 carb will work just fine although I've built the same engine [with double hump iron heads] and used a 950 three barrel on a C-3b intake with great results.
    Keep the 327 crank. With that light little T-body it'll be a terror if you can get traction.
    If you can't afford the aluminum heads a pair of 64Cc chevy iron heads will suffice.
     
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  10. Fordors
    Joined: Sep 22, 2016
    Posts: 2,087

    Fordors
    Member

    Years ago I went to The Chevy Shop, long gone, but it used to be in Chicago. The owner stocked GM short blocks, heads and all the hard parts along with aftermarket stuff. I go to buy a L79 327 short block and he says he doesn't have one in stock. But then he adds this- "I don't have any LT-1's either right now but Nickey Chevrolet does, always go for the cubic inches!" Sound advice. A 301 will never have the bottom end the 327 will .
     
  11. verno30
    Joined: Aug 25, 2008
    Posts: 992

    verno30
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I think short stroke motors are the cat's ass
    Sadly, here is some bad news:
    Building a 301/302 is not going to "small budget" friendly
    You are going to be locked to options with very high compression (10.5+)
    3.73 gears are the tallest you'll want to run. These things need to wind out. Focus more on like 4.11-4.86
    Goodbye highway driving.
    OD will be worthless since these things are total dogs until they wind (like above 4500)
    Stop light to stop light will be a blast.

    ENJOY!!
     
  12. Lobucrod
    Joined: Mar 22, 2006
    Posts: 4,076

    Lobucrod
    Alliance Vendor

    Oops. Senior moment. I stand corrected
     
  13. HemiTCoupe
    Joined: Apr 4, 2013
    Posts: 190

    HemiTCoupe
    Member
    from TN.

    Thanks for the repies!
    I was going to put a 283 in it, but I'd rather have the 4" bore. There is more head options then. I have had many 283 in the past. I have had 3x2's and 2x4's on a couple. I blew one with 2x4's on it. I got spring fever, and when I was going through the gears up a entrance ramp, I hit a small patch of ice, and exploded it I could not find #7 cylinder, and the rod was bent 90* with only a wrist pin on it.

    283's are my favorite motor, I love the short stroke. Pedal to the medal and pull gears. Stop light to stop light. I had one in 2- '57 chevy's, in a '67 Camaro, a '62, '63, 64, '64 SS with a straight axle, and a '67 Chevy II's. and 2- Vega's. I must be missing one.

    I had built a 302 back in the 70's. I sold it before I ever got a chance to install it. I had gotten to good of a deal on 454 to pass up, which I built some, and installed into my '67 SS/RS 350 Camaro.

    So I'm stuck on building a 283, or a 327 for it. A 302 would be to much for my pocket right now. Or I could just be like everyone else, and just use a 350. I guess I could play with a 327, it doesn't have that much more stroke to it. I did have a couple growing up, and they were fun also.

    Thanks, pat
     
  14. This is essentially what I did but with a later '74 350 bored .030 over. Got a Lunati Voodoo cam, Dart SHP aluminum heads & intake (steal @ $1500 from Summit), Scat rods and a Holley 700 DP.
     
  15. Build the 327 .Stud the bottom end, use good rod bolts, and balance the rotating assembly. Pocket port a set of camel hump heads, have 2.02s instaled, and throw in a comp cams 294 S or z28 cam. It'll wind and run great on the street, though i have only run sticks behind mine.I have seen flat top 302 pistons, but would not want to run a low compression 302
     
  16. Jacob helms
    Joined: Nov 28, 2016
    Posts: 103

    Jacob helms
    Member

    I was going to do the same thing but i just ended up punching out a 283 .30 over cause its too difficult to take a 350 block and a 283 crank cause you need different connecting rods to lower the compression ratio

    Sent from my LGLS740 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  17. tb33anda3rd
    Joined: Oct 8, 2010
    Posts: 15,040

    tb33anda3rd
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Connecticut HAMB'ers

    i run a 327 with a 283 crank in my coupe. 2x4 intake with a 3 speed stick. 28.5" rear tires. i have two sets of gears 4.56 for blasting around town and 3.70 for "trips". motor comes "alive" at 2800rpm and then becomes "immortal" at 3000 rpms. with the 3.70s on a recent 600 mile trip i had no problem keeping up with traffic. with the 4.56's it will plant you in the seat.
    i run 93/94 octane .when built right they are a great motor.
     
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  18. tb33anda3rd
    Joined: Oct 8, 2010
    Posts: 15,040

    tb33anda3rd
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Connecticut HAMB'ers

    this book was written by the Dave Lewis. he also built my engine for me. DSCF2630.JPG
     
  19. tb33anda3rd
    Joined: Oct 8, 2010
    Posts: 15,040

    tb33anda3rd
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Connecticut HAMB'ers

  20. chevy57dude
    Joined: Dec 10, 2007
    Posts: 4,949

    chevy57dude
    Member

    Sworn to big blocks these days but a 327 thread makes me look every time.
    302? Gotta be a high compression screamer! With a 4 speed IMO.
    Cruiser? 350 crank in a 327 block with that auto O/D tranny gets my vote.
     
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  21. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 12,067

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    Yea, I'm kind of weird that way too.
    Whenever I hear someone say 327, I envision honey dripping off their tongue.
    Maybe that's just my own drool!
     
  22. I am a weirdo too, say 327 or 400 SBC and I am interested right away.
     
  23. Brett Wells
    Joined: Oct 13, 2016
    Posts: 54

    Brett Wells

     
  24. Brett Wells
    Joined: Oct 13, 2016
    Posts: 54

    Brett Wells

    Hi there, try to find a new old stock Sig Erson TQ30 stump pulling cam, use 327 Crank as others have stated already, Rhoads anti pump lifters if you can find them, Stainless roller rockers, and some Isky or Crower quality Valve springs and 10 degree retainers, ARP rod bolts in chevy "O" rods (Pink rods-Factory" , Z28 factory windage tray, Felpro gaskets, don't go to wild on aftermarket parts, will blow your budget real quick.
    Using many of the factory performance parts that you can find at swap meets for small change is the way to go for a lot of the parts you need, as David Vizard has said, by a few How to build /performance small block books, as they have invaluable info in them for just a few dollars! These books can be found also at swap meets! I have a few with the factory part numbers in them, if you need any factory Hi PO part numbers?
    Research is your first step, before you end up buying parts that you don't need, or won't work with your combo, factory Hi PO 327 is all you will most likely need, as they put out up to 375 horse power factory, this is really reliable factory horse power, "Daul purpose" motor, reasonable economy with stump pulling torque/horse power!
    Hope this helps you out? Brett
     
  25. I'm really digging your enthusiasm but the understanding is lacking. Here to helping you grow.
    Small block chevy`s had 5.703 inch rods, except the 400, which ran shorter 5.565 rods.
    The journal size changed and the cubic inches changed& the stroke changed but not the connecting rods. Connecting rods do not lower or raise compression, the shape of the piston does and the size of the combustion camber also does.
    When the stroke changes the piston pin's distance from the top needs to change also, that's called compression height.
    image.png
     
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  26. HemiTCoupe
    Joined: Apr 4, 2013
    Posts: 190

    HemiTCoupe
    Member
    from TN.

    I have a chance to buy a 327 small journal block with steel crank, that's has just been bored .060, .010 under mains and rods crank. He has also has a set of matching pro comp rods new for floating wrist pin, for sale.

    What do you think? Should I keep looking for a less bored block, or go for it.

    Pat
     
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  27. If the price is good, go for it. 60 over does not scare me on a SBC.
     
  28. olscrounger
    Joined: Feb 23, 2008
    Posts: 3,482

    olscrounger
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Have two small journal 327's .060 over--one has been running great since the mid 80's the other about 3 yrs--no problems no heating issues.
     
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  29. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,341

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    Yea, but this is the HAMB. Through the looking glass....:rolleyes:
     
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  30. HemiTCoupe
    Joined: Apr 4, 2013
    Posts: 190

    HemiTCoupe
    Member
    from TN.

    I don't think I'm going to be able to get the .060 over 327. His phone has been disconnected, and he hasn't answer my e-mails.

    There is another for sale. It's a '66 block, forged crank, no rods or pistons. He said it needs to be bored. He said it sat with one head off. He tried to hone it out, but may need to be bored to get it. I'd have to be sure the block isn't cracked. I bought a 392 that way, and it was unrepairable.

    I talked with another guy the has some 283's, 305, 307, and other older small block's. He want 's $100.00 for short blocks, and up to $350.00 for complete motors. It's a 70+ mile drive to check them out, but I'm going to drive there Monday, to see what motors he has. Hopefully he has a 327 in the bunch. He has a 283 short block, so I may as well grab it any ways for the $100.00. I'm going to keep looking for a 327 though.
     

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