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Building 2-1/4'' Headers, question about the center two tubes on a SBC...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Littleman, Jul 23, 2013.

  1. Littleman
    Joined: Aug 25, 2004
    Posts: 2,614

    Littleman
    Alliance Member
    from OHIO, USA

    This is the first time I am building headers ''more like zoomies'' using the larger 2-1/4'' tubes. I have a set of 15 degree Brodix heads that I will be using in a blown Injected Alcohol setup in the new car I am building..I made the header flanges, and the center 2-1/4'' tubes overlap.........Not too sure what the correct way is to deal w/ this overlap ?......The tubes are going to come straight off the heads then angle back slightly, go thru the body and end 4'' kinda like cat wiskers or so outside the body....I can bandsaw the two center tubes and weld them length wise making a single tube all the way out, which would look neat...I am not seeing another option ?...Thanks for looking, Dave

    [​IMG]

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  2. Hot Rods Ta Hell
    Joined: Apr 20, 2008
    Posts: 3,890

    Hot Rods Ta Hell
    Member

    How about flattening your tubing the first inch or so coming off the flanges into a 'D' shape? You'd have two mirror image 'D''s (flat sides against each other) to handle the siamese situation.
     
  3. BCCHOPIT
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 2,586

    BCCHOPIT
    Member


    X2
    I would cut and weld in a flat on both pipes and weld the two flats to seal the tube to flange
    What does the port look like in the head?
     
  4. Dave, just shape them to match the flange. Flatten the centers and weld the inside edges together.
     
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  5. black 62
    Joined: Jul 12, 2012
    Posts: 1,895

    black 62
    Member
    from arkansas

    most people use an adapter plate to transition away from that problem---comes in the kit with big tube sbc name brand headers...
     
  6. HamD
    Joined: Mar 3, 2011
    Posts: 298

    HamD
    Member

    It's already Stahl pattern.

    I'm not aware of another way up from there.
     
  7. Littleman
    Joined: Aug 25, 2004
    Posts: 2,614

    Littleman
    Alliance Member
    from OHIO, USA

    Thanks for the replies...........I did think of the ideas mentioned as a possible way.....I searched for pics looking for how others have done this , but came up empty...I am never too shy to ask about better options........Thanks again, Littleman Dave
     
  8. Ohiovette
    Joined: Dec 12, 2011
    Posts: 101

    Ohiovette
    Member

    Dave,
    Call Jere Stahl in York ,PA.
    He has a remedy for everything.
     
  9. I would "D" shape the center two tubes to keep them as individual tubes, it will make better power than if you Siamese them together creating one large tube.

    How big is this motor? 2 1/4" is pretty big for a small block, even for a blown motor?
     
  10. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,341

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    ^^My thoughts when I read this as well. Thats a hell of a big header even for a blown small-block. I was hesitant to comment because I have no first-hand experience with blown alky combos, but man, thats pretty big.
     
  11. Littleman
    Joined: Aug 25, 2004
    Posts: 2,614

    Littleman
    Alliance Member
    from OHIO, USA

    421 cubic inch w/ 15 deg. heads......I agree w/ keeping them seperate tubes to be more optimal.......But, I also think I am a bit of a nut bag to stick this engine in this new car.....Any loss of power would probably be a ok and no big deal...It is already going to have too much after de-tuned.......We shall find out.......Dave
     
  12. oj
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 6,155

    oj
    Member

    Mine do multiple steps from 2 to 2 1/4" and have a slip joint close to the head. They start 2" and run out a couple inches nice and straight for the flow and that is the slip joint stepping to 2 1/8th and go to 2 1/4 after the turn down.
    You can see the slip joint in the 2nd pic.
     

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  13. Inline
    Joined: May 13, 2005
    Posts: 254

    Inline
    Member
    from Ohio

    Could you make a transition like this? You could weld in a piece on the inside to separate the two pipes at the flange.

    [​IMG]

    ...got this pic off of Burns Stainless' website.
     
  14. gasserjohn
    Joined: Nov 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,219

    gasserjohn
    Member

    what size is the port in head

    looked at brodix site

    dave can you post photo exhaust ports

    you should use the flange to transtition port to headers
    do the headers rite the first time you know you want it perfect or it will bug you&itwill be ready for the next step in your use of this engine


    try & come to eagle field drags this oct...
     

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  15. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,796

    tfeverfred
    Member

    No answer, but I'd sure like to see more of what you're working on. That teaser pic has got my mind racing.
     
  16. Littleman
    Joined: Aug 25, 2004
    Posts: 2,614

    Littleman
    Alliance Member
    from OHIO, USA

  17. Littleman
    Joined: Aug 25, 2004
    Posts: 2,614

    Littleman
    Alliance Member
    from OHIO, USA

    The ports are D, I think they call them roof side up......I have had them covered up w/ poster board in between the head and the flanges I made up........I will take a pic when I can later and note the sizes..........Thanks for looking, Dave
     
  18. Littleman
    Joined: Aug 25, 2004
    Posts: 2,614

    Littleman
    Alliance Member
    from OHIO, USA

    I did sketch something up similiar to that...Thanks for taking the time, Dave
     
  19. dreracecar
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 2,846

    dreracecar
    Member
    from so-cal

    Since you have a body and creating somthing new instead of a copy, my sugestion is for the center pipes to "V" (spread out) from the heads so that you have the pipes simetrical. Having the 2 center pipes that big siamized makes it hard to get any kind of angle on the ends. The headers on my car are 2 1/8 (sorry for the cover shot) and spread apart like a Chry Hemi or BB Chevy so that I could angle the pipes back. I also came out of the flange with the tube curved down and then went back up with the tube instead of coming up from the flange, First to somwhat mask the side of the engine block to make the engine look like its lower and Two- to have a natural "TRAP" so that any stones could not enter down into the heads.
     

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  20. Littleman
    Joined: Aug 25, 2004
    Posts: 2,614

    Littleman
    Alliance Member
    from OHIO, USA

    I skipped making step headers due to the short length they will end up being......but do see by ding this buys me allot of room to start off with ...Thanks, Dave
     
  21. Littleman
    Joined: Aug 25, 2004
    Posts: 2,614

    Littleman
    Alliance Member
    from OHIO, USA

    I did think of the ''V''......so it would allow me to exit the pipes more evenly....By just forming a ''D'' shape on the tube ends ..say for the first 1-1/4'' would naturally make the ''V'' shape...or so I think it would spread the tubes apart..........Not sure if I would like the look of the ''V'' while looking straight down on it...eventhou it would be inside the body..........I like the trap idea as well........Thanks, Dave
     
  22. dreracecar
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 2,846

    dreracecar
    Member
    from so-cal

    Dave---Who cares what you think--- just kidding

    With the level of skill you are showing on this build , V-ing the tubes so that all the tubes are evenly spaced, Most people would look at it as a purpose and admire you for thinking of it
     

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