I'm building a 327 the other way, 283 block bored out to 4" with a steel 327 crank. Going to go in a gasser project some day, I hope.
I've been reading all of this and some of it is staring too fall into the "just because you can doesn't mean you should" category. Why would you bore a 283 out to "4 inches and put a 327 crank in it? Just leave the " forged" 283 crankshaft in it and have a 302 or call it a old school 301. The only way any of this makes any sense is if the OP is using a 4 bolt block to beef up the bottom end so he can spin it faster or if he simply has a bunch of parts too bolt together. Sent from my GT-P3113 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
And now the $64,000 question is what cam are you using for this combo because it makes 408 lbs./ft. Of torque @ 5000 rpm's and 437 h.p. @ 6500 rpm's which is right at the safe level for 2 bolt mains. Personally I like my idea of boring a 307 block to "4 inches and using a set of splayed main caps but 307 blocks, vortec heads, and splayed main caps are O/T around here anyways. Sent from my GT-P3113 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Jibs, have you set that 327 crank in that 283 block yet? Is it a late 283 block? If I remember right the bore bottoms of the 67 283 blocks are notched to clear the counterweights of a 327 crank. And you cannot grind the bottoms of the bores on a regular old 283 block or you will hit water. If my memory serves me right. Lippy
We just use a reground 307 crank to build our 327's. Works great we do them for $5500 turn key with aluminum heads. Sent from my XT1585 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
It's been a while but I'm pretty that's was a "comp cams" 286 HR for that work up. The vortec heads need work to take any real lift, you can do that yourself with a few cheap tools. Aka the "ghetto grind" The block I have is from a 2001 1 ton van so it's a 4 bolt main block. 96-2000 1/2 ton truck/Van got 2 bolt mains and 96-2001 3/4 and 1 ton trucks/vans had 4 bolt mains.
You can build a long rod 302 by using a large journal 3" crank generation II 5.94 rods and 350 pistons. A rebalance is required because of rod weight.
Just because I can, besides that's what I have. If you don't like it I'll sell it to you and you can do whatever you want with it. Yes later 283 already cleared for the 327 crank, spins nice.
To answer the OP,s question. Yes a 327 small or large journal crank can be installed in a 350 block. The small journal requires spacer bearings. Not having a crankcase breather in the lifter galley isn't a problem. Is it worth doing. It depends on your personal Preference. I prefer a 327 over a 350. I install 350 cranks in 400 blocks and sell the 400 cranks to guys building 383,s. What I do is find a good stock 350 crank. And get the pistons and rods. and weigh them. take the average weight and make my new piston & rod assemblys weight the same.
Yes it can be done. But why ? If you like having to turn the motor up to make power just over cam it , use too big an intake manifold and run a 5:13 gear. Dollar for dollar a properly built 350 will out run a 327 all day long and without having to wear the motor out doing it, been there done it , no replacement for displacement Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Ya know...I really don't have the back to back experience to argue with you...but I just can't buy that as being true. If you substituted 283 for 327 then I would agree, but I'm just not buying it with a 327. Out run a 327 all day long...wearing motors out? Really??? Yes, you would need to build them a little different with the shorter stroke...but I think it would be a nail biter with no obvious advantage going in.
True, but the more displacement in the engine, the larger port,valve cyl. head you need. The smaller engines can use the older castings and I find them cheaper than ever.
My point was ,there were comments all through the thread talking about "spin it up,and make power ,build a little high rev motor" ,when you have to beat on the thing to make any power your just wearing out on the street. There's a much better way to make good power on the street than turning the thing 8500 ,though it is fun I agree. I'm sure there is a way to build a lower rpm 327 that makes power ,but again your giving up 23 cubic inches on a stock bore.
Smokey Yunick declared the best combo he found for a small block was a 4 inch bore, 3 5/8 stroke with a 6 inch rod. 364 inch motor.
If you're building a 327 because you like old 327s - that's great. I'd sure wait until I found the genuine article and build it before I tried to convert a 350 to be an early 327. The original will be a lot cheaper and easier to build in the long run. They really aren't that hard to find if you're seriously looking. If you're building a 327 because it will wind more rpms and outrun 350s, it's probably not a real logical thing to do. Remember the old "An engine is an air pump" deal? You're going to have to turn a 327 tighter to move the same air as a 350 does at a lower rpm. You can build a 350 to turn 10,000 rpms. Your not going to build a 327 to turn a lot more than a 350. And the problem with really isn't something coming loose in the rotating assembly and hitting the head. The problem is usually something coming loose in the valve train and hitting the rotating assembly. And it's the same valve train in a 327 as is in a 350. BTW, I like 327s. I think they have a better rod length/stroke ratio than a 350 or a 302. If you want to build one, build it. Just don't do it for the wrong reasons. Just another old fart opinion, and I know what they're worth.
and of course, this being the HAMB, when you build this short stroke, high rpm screamer that all these guys advocate, the same guys will tell you to back it with 3.08 gears and the tallest tires you can find...
364 or 370@+030. I built a couple 5.7" rod 370s in the eighties. You offset grind the rod journals down to 2" and use small journal rods. TRW used to stock the pistons for this combo until everyone started building 383's. Back then, if you were working with a core that needed a crank grind anyway, the 5.7" rod 370 deal was practically free. The thing I like about it is, unlike the 3.75 combo, a 6" rod will fit without the pin bore intruding into the oil ring land. With Scat making reasonably priced 6" small journal I-beams now, this combo deserves to make a comeback, its a good one.
Just buy a late model roller block 350, order up a Scat 3.25" crank and call it good. Then you can use a factory hyd roller cam and you have 4 bolt mains. That is if Scat makes one. The 307 crank mentioned above is the easiest.
I assembled low budget 327 when I was an apprentice 350 block, 307 Crank, used set of L79 pistons,307 Rods, L79 cam. bores were a little loose, but the only performance issue was 3.08 rear. I drove it about 8 summers.
All of the 307 crankshafts that I've seen are cast, has anyone seen any forged 307 crankshafts? I think they made a large journal 327 forged crank, but I'd have to check before I put money on it.
I have one, and have posted photos at some point. I pulled the 307 it came out of out of a Canadian made 1/2 ton GMC PU.
Speaking from my experience, Unless you want the PCV in the valve cover, go with the 327 block. I have a 59 Vette, running a 377", 400 block, stock valve covers. I have tried many combinations of a crankcase vent to keep the oil inside the engine, while retaining the stock non-vented valve covers. Currently I have the intake drilled, with a baffle inside, 3/4" hose routed up the firewall, and stepped back down into a PCV and into the carb vacuum. It is working well, but it ain't pretty. I also run an intake with the filler tube in the front. If time allows this winter, I am going back to the 10.5 compression 327, it made the same power as my 9.25 compression 377. I have another home for the 377, and don't care about the valve covers on this application.
A cheep out for the "car show" crowd. So he does not catch a load of crap from A-holes for having a belly button 350.
Hi all I’m new here trying to read up on things and research some info. I like the 327 Chevy as I have a large journal 327 out of a 69 impala in my 68 Chevelle. It’s pretty stock rebuild I did back in 95 stock crank n rods 0.030” over trw forged flat tops. 350 hp 327 cam with weiand stealth intake and 600 Holley. Been a good engine now 20 plus years running 4.11 gears she revs about 4,000 on the high way. And way in itching to play. I’m to pick up a 350 that’s shot but ran when pulled. I have my 307 crank from the original engine from my 68 I pulled years back. I’m daring to be different n build a 327 again... out of my parts laying around. Minus pistons I’d but. I know cubes are king , but I love those 327 and have read the 4” bore n short stroke help to be less detonation prone so with that thought could try little higher compression in one these smaller engines. Plus using a good head and unshrouded valves could be a good street with occasional strip trips are my thoughts. I’m figuring it will need balanced as it’s parts being put together for new rotating assembly. Any thoughts am I missing anything major? Thanks all
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