Hot Rods Build #2 I 30 Model A"Coupe" AKA Phoenix

Great job, thanks for the close up of the rear corner. Did you pie cut it to make it fit ? Also, how did you get the body lines straight? In the back side shot it looks way off but the front, it's lined up. Hammer and dolly ? Thanks for helping someone who's learning


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Dino,
I took the first pic from behind to show just how far off it was. I then cut the entire patch vertically and added 3/16" strip and welded it back up. It is amazing just how far off things are. I sometimes wonder what dies people use to make these things.... If I had a lot of time I would spend some time making new dies and forms. I have too many things I never get done so this would be bad thing to take on!

As far as learning, we are all learning. I know I am learning every time I am in the shop or online here reading. The day you know everything is the day you die! Even when we think we know all there is to know about something we need a good kick in the ass bc there may be someone that has yet an even better way.

One thing that irks me more than anything is the crew of "old timers" (NO disrespect at all-just couldn't think of a different term for people that may be stubborn and set in their ways) that think if you don't do something "their" way that you must be a dumb shit. A good example is I like to work smarter, not harder and if using MIG vs O/A or TIG is faster and yields equal results then I am fine with this. Some would have you believe that you are less than human for doing such a thing but to each their own.

I continue to learn even on this project what I would do different on the next one. A constant learning process. But sure is a fun!

 

You are doing awesome work!!

 

Thanks for the reply and info. I spoke to Pete at Brookville, he told me all the shorter repo's come from the same place, the taller ones are Howell's creation. He picked out a good one for me( only need the dr side) said it was good enough to work with.
I share your views completely about learning all your life, whatever works is good with me. You're doing a great job, please keep posting so we can all learn.


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I haven't been able to work on the coupe for about a week due to my son's sports schedule. Finally had a couple hours so I went up there and took some more small bites off of the beast.
There were some Swiss cheese spots on the transition. You can see light coming through the bad. I made a piece and put through the stretcher until it fit just right. Welded it in and am pleased with the results.
I also decided to just order the piece that goes below the deck lid. An easily makable piece but I need to pick and choose my battles as it relates to time. It was cheap enough to justify the purchase.


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Had a few hours to play this evening. Did some more patching and welding up small pin holes.
After that I made some drip rails. Was my first go at it but they turned out really well. Kinda tricky as they have a compound curve. I have a ring roller so it made things go smoothly. Hope the pics explain things.


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You've come a long way from what you started with, great job. Chop in the future ?


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Indeed a chop. In the very near future.


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I got up to the shop today but more to clean things up and place a "new" toy in there. I picked up a Whitney Jensen 412 finger brake. No picks now but it'll let me make the fuel cell and some other things.
While I was cleaning up I reassembled the body panels as seen in the pic. I also assembled the front axle with spindles and kingpins. Also have wheels and tires back from being mounted 550x16 and 750x16 on Gennie 14s. I will get pics one day this week when I get back up there.
Poser mock up pic for today is all



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Sorry for the delay in saying thanks for the photo of your planishing hammer, do you grind your mig welds smooth and then planish to restretch any shrinkage?

 

KF,
Yes. I try to keep the tack welds as small as possible and then grind them down and then hammer everything out. I actually started enjoying the hammering the more i did it because of the results I was getting. This is all new to me(The sheet metal work) as most of the stuff I ever played around with was much heavier fabrication.
I started tig welding everything in the beginning but there was such poor metal on the underside that the welds would get contaminated and cavitate. Got tired of going back and forth between tig and mig and finally said f- it.


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I'm enjoying your adventure

 

These are in a roadster and a coupe, but samo-samo. Don't know if you still need this, but didn't see any other pictures.
Rear corner patches are great quality, aren't they?
I almost built a coupe I was going to call the "Phoenix" - at the time I was chasing down an exotic dancer ( stripper) who had a picture of a Phoenix for a "tramp stamp" ( above her ass, not rising from the ashes! HaHa)

You're doing one helluva job! Good stuff.

 

I hear ya. Was lucky I didn't need the whole panel


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Mike,
That is hilarious and when I was at SEMA this year I may have seen that very same stripper one night
Anyway, I got some subrail kickups and all is good. I appreciate the pics.
I am taking some days off in the coming weeks and plan to really get at this mess. I am happy with things so far compared to my first "build". I learned a shit ton and this is definitely moving along better.
Thanks again!



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Nice work Dino! Save your scraps. Someone may need em.


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I would have used them. Then I could've added more metal to the tinfoiled shot show I've been playing with.


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You're welcome to them if you need them


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Thanks! Just the detailed pics I was looking for!
I was curious how people were transitioning the flat wheel well patches to the curved upper part.
Sub'd

 

I actually made some pieces where there is the radius by hammering them and then massaging them smooth. My wheel wells were roached beyond what the new wheel well covered.


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Luckily, mine aren't bad at all, mostly just the bottoms are shot. But the pass side has some small holes where there was moisture trapped in the fender welting.
This will be my first metal working undertaking, and currently I've got pretty limited tools, which has me a bit worried about how I was going to form the radius, if I have to.
I haven't sanded down to bare metal yet, but I was hoping I might be able to just tack the holes up, as opposed to replacing the whole, or part of the radius.
My back corners are actually pretty solid, surprisingly, and from what I've seen from the aftermarket patches, I dodged a bullet there.
About an inch of the cowl bottom, rear quarters and wheel well patches, is all I have to worry about.
Looking forward to chop pics! They will come in handy, too!

 

You can weld those pinholes up if you have the front and backside of the metal clean and your amperage dialed way down.


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Using.023 wire is a big help.


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Backing it up with a piece of aluminum stock helps too. Gives it some bite, but weld won't stick to the aluminum. I've got stuff all different sizes and some curved pieces from fixing a few of these poor old things. It sucks when you start out with a 1/2" hole and end up with an inch! Welding "dust" is a challenge.

 

Yeah, it's like a bare spot in the lawn, just keeps getting bigger.
Copper works too, messy though.


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Good work/thread!

 

Now that would have been fun to bring to a few body shops for an estimate . Nice save ,looking good!!

 

Had about two hours before I had to stop but wanted to start a deck lid. Not sure if I'll keep it or go a different route. I will roll a panel and wrap it and decide then.
I also pulled everything apart and it's ready to be bolted back together and find its way on the floor for frame suspension mock up. That'll also be top chop decision. I'm diggin' the thread by Drivinford
That stance is spot on!


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Oh, and that rear axle/wheel combo WILL undergo a narrowing! Rear axle was a hair too wide for my fancy so I'll do the chop and respline the shafts. I cheated out and ordered the Dana44 alignment fixture. Could've machined one but it was cheaper than the time it would've take.


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