The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Arrowood Rod & Kustom, Feb 17, 2010.
Give Turners auto wrecking a call in Fresno. I don't know the prices but they have a few......
The manufacturing process used in the originals was not all that common (nor for the faint of heart). They were not sand cast- they were permanent mold and required the iron melting and aluminum melting to be very close together since the aluminum was injected into the mold while a VERY hot cast iron insert was already in there. The iron and aluminum are bonded metallurgically.
I don't know where you got your information but from personal experience your wrong. When I attended General Motors Institute in Flint, Michigan we used to go down to the Buick plant and watch them make finned drums. The process is called Centrifugal Casting. The finned aluminum shell is placed in a revolving fixture tilted at about 30 degrees. It is spinning while the molten cast iron is poured into the shell. The force of the spinning makes the cast iron flow to the outside forming a liner in the finned portion of the drum. The completed drum is spun until the iron is solidified then is ejected out of the fixture to be cooled. After that it's off to the machining dept. for final machining. The molten cast iron was ladeled out of a melting pot and manually poured into the spinning outer shell.
The temperature inside that department was over a hundred degrees in the middle of the winter and those guys would wear protective clothing to keep from getting burned and ladle that hot iron for 10-12 hours a day. I doubt that OSHA would allow those working conditions today.
As a matter of personal taste, I thought the Buick drums made the front end look heavy. These are polished aluminum Hollywood accessory backing plate covers.
If you like them, and it's what your budget is... why ask others?
If you want them for your build get em, if not save up for the real thing.
BTW, fake tits taste just like the real ones, and are just as fun to play with.
doesn't apply to everything in life, just my $.02
Don't toss out drums that are out of spec; they will slip right over F-100 drums, there's a thread in the Tech Archives.
Yeah they look stupid when you run ford wire wheels.
looks like I will go with the real thing thanks guys!
how about the finned backing plate covers I guess you'd call them not sure on the name but like what Voodoo Larry has on his coupe..where do you get those
Wilson Welding I believe.
If you thought that the drums were expensive, you might want to wait until your money tree blooms though.
Yeah Wilson Welding has them. Go with original! I got mine for 150 on the bay (45 fin). Excellent condition. I just had to be patient. It took about 6 monthes of losing auctions. I paid 100 for the 46-48 Ford drums. I haven't mated them yet.
They are not covers, but are the complete finned aluminum backing plates (with shoes, wheel cylinders, etc.) which are $455 pair, just $45 more than the Lincoln backing plates. Not that expensive for good brakes.
Here is the website: http://www.wilsonweldingandmachine.com/
And the price list: http://www.wilsonweldingandmachine.com/2006-prices.mht
so basically I would buy the 45 fins, buy the 40-48 ford hubs and then buy your finned backing plate and I would be good to go on front brakes or am I missing anything?
That's all you need, plus a little machine work to mount the hubs in the drums and drill them to the bolt pattern you want. I'd use 46-48 car hubs if possible.
What's the melting temp of aluminum?
1300 F off the top of my head...
What's the melting temp of cast iron??
2300 F off the top of my head...
You watched 100% CAST IRON drums being cast....
well I'm halfway there I bought '46-'48 hubs now got to keep saving up so I can buy the 45 fins and the wilson welding backing plates
I've got a similar set as these and am having trouble fitting them - how did you mount them? They are just an aluminium ring that goes around the edge of the 37-48 drum but there are no fittings and the wheel is too far back to push them against the drum in any way so when the wheel turns they'll just rattle around. I have a spare drum that seems a little wider that they seem to friction fit on with a little mallet action, but i wouldn't trust it once the wheel is really spinning - any ideas?
thanks for making that clear!!
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