I have done some serches but came up with little info on the Buick 455 mills off of the HAMB. I would love to know the good and the bad. The mill in question being produced between 1972 and 1974. I have read a bunch of tec specs from google searches but I want to get info from people that actually get their hands dirty. Also I would love to hear the experiences of anyone putting a big block motor like this (or any big block for that matter) into a tri-5 chevy. If anyone has a good under the hood shot to share that would be cool too. Much thanks in advance!!!!
Had one in a 50 Buick sedanette out of a '73 Limited. Tons of torque,absolutly dependable, great motor IMHO
The big block buick motor's are awesome tons of torque and they are light for a big block. Did I mention tons of torque... Check out the web site for TA performance or poston enterprises for info on the engines ton of info there. I ran them for years in my muscle cars. They do not like revving high though I still have some parts lying around to prove it. Eric
Awesome motors, tons of torque, never had one in a tri-5 but had a n early 70's Buick Limited at one point that would cream a lot of the smaller cars, and it was a yacht.
www.v8buick.com build it stock, pocket port the heads, put a cam with aroun 225-230 duration in and youll get a reliable fast torque monster. only thing to beware of is the front timing cover/oil pump, might as well get a new one.
Demo derby season is upon us.. I had a chance to buy one of these (post-derby) but I don't have anything to put it in.. good luck!
I'm kinda partial to big inch Cads myself,but in the words of my Buick lovin bud... "Buicks Forever. Chevies Never" BTW, he had a nailhead in a 55 Chev back in the day.
Here's some pics to whet your interest. A couple versions of the same engine in my 32 roadster. Intake, cam change etc. 46,000 miles & no problems. Other car, a 31 roadster on 32 rails project. It gets the big cam, dual quads etc. A bit of advice, if you're building the engine for the street aim for a 9.0 - 9.2/1 Compression Ratio. (CR) You can run a 455 Buick on today's 87 octane without having to back off the timing. You can also run up to 10.0 - 10.4/1 CR if you run a big cam so as to bleed off some of the compression. Especially true if you run the new Edelbrock aluminum heads. There's other tricks, such as running a mild cam, 68-69 rockers stock springs etc. The valve train is the weak spot in the big Buicks and if you don't run an aftermarket rocker shaft - stockers are weak - and roller rockers you'll need to keep the revs under 5000, especially so if running stock valve springs. You don't need a lot of revs with these big engines. The 10.0/1 engine in stock form has 510# torque stock.
87 octane? Really! Now there is some good news! It would be pretty much be a weekend street machine except for the HAMB drags once a year and the occasional tire burner for the kids. What type of trans works well behind them? I have never been interested in a big block so it's all new to me at this point. I guess I could think about an automatic to make it wife friendly (I am still trying to teach her how the drive a stick) but would rather a 4 or 5 speed option.
The short tailshaft T-400 comes with the engine and has the mount on the tailshaft. (There's a deal for ya.) Lots cheaper to set up the T-400 than try to get a stick trans squared away. Other advantages for an engine swap: Front distributor. Lightweight for a big block, remove the heavy (70# from what I hear and I believe it) intake manifold and the engine sans exhaust manifold weighs 15# more than an SBC in similar trim. Rear sump pan. Right side starter. Easy motor mount setup - refer to the pic of the 31 above, I run the very same motor mounts in the 32 and no problems. Mild timing curves, 8 degrees initial, 32 degrees all- in. (Buick guys run anything from 28-32 degrees all-in timing with most settling at 32 degrees.) All-in max timing at 2600-2800 rpm works well for the street, racers work ok with all-in at 2200 rpm. Make sure you run a vacuum advance distributor. Buicks will overheat on the street in traffic if you don't run vac adv and have the vacuum source selected to manifold (full-time) vacuum. If you buy a very late engine, watch out for the 7.9/1 CR heads. The 8.7/1 CR heads are what you want if you're building a 9.0/1 CR engine. A little decking and head milling - not much will get you to 9.0/1 CR with no intake manifold angularity problems that required angle milliing of the intake flanges to solve. Not much is required of the Buick heads 9.0/1 CR and up. They breathe fairly well with nothing more than a good three angle valve job. You can rebuild your oil pump. Three different kits available at real parts houses - you don't need the speed equipment house pump kit, they're the same thing in a different package. If I remember right , the pump kits are; basic, basic with new bottom plate and high-volume with spacer plate, roll pins and drill. The high-volume pump is easy to do. Key point is gear end clearance on the bottom plate. Some guys don't like the high-volume pump, but I do. The high-volume pump is required with roller rockers which I run. Run a reasonable oil weight and don't spin the engine till the oil's warm. You don't have to spin the engine anyway, in a light car 4 grand is plenty and my 32 roadster seldom see's more than that. The valve train is set up for 6 grand +, but it's not needed on the street . . . the car only weighs 2400#. A 9.0/1 CR Buick 455 punched out .030 over ends up at 462". A mild cam, headers, decent intake, good ignition and sticking the engine in a 3200-3400# car - about what the Tri-5's weigh - along with some type of traction devce, reasonable diff gears and fair tires will crank off 12's and 102-104 mph fairly easy. Good performance in anyone's book. A lot of the Buick guys are running 3800# Buicks with engines built a little stronger and they have no problems dipping into the 10's. Many of them run a diff that's about 3.78 or so. A touch low for highway cruising on tires smaller than 28", but entirely suitable for around town and shorter trips. Run a fairly tight converter, about 2400 rpm stall at the max unless you're going racing. These will flash stall at 2800 rpm behind the big Buicks, but lock up ok on the highway so the trans doesn't get hot. Run a trans temp gauge and accessory trans cooler.
C9 - that is pretty much everything that I was hoping to hear from someone that has done it! Now I have to see if I can do some trading or if I need to work out a cash deal to bring it home. Much thank! I might PM ya with questions in the future should things work in my favor(which they currently seem to be).
Get that thing in there and you'll have to call it the "RoadMonster." Nothing quite like an innocent looking car that was seldom - if ever - hot rodded hauling the freight like there's no tomorrow....
Of the 455's produced buy Buick, Olds, and Pontiac, I've always heard that the Buick 455 was the superior of the three. Lightweight and don't forget that the Stage 1 edition was rated at 510 ft. lbs of torque. Pretty sure that was the highest torque rating of any engine from the musclecar era. They say if you ever go the GS Nationals in Bowling Green, you wouldn't believe how fast those Stage 1's can go in an optioned out Buick GS.
PM's are ok, but I feel it's better to do this stuff in a post so guys and gals with other experiences and opinions can chime in with their thoughts. I realize you said 4 or 5 speed stick trans, but with the wide power band the Buicks have, I feel the three speed automatic is better on the street. In fact - if I had lotsa bucks - and built a Buick powered 1800-2100# drag race roadster I'd be inclined to run a Lenco three speed instead of a four speed. If your wife is going to be driving this potentially fast car, an automatic would probably be best until she gets a handle on driving it. Just nailing the darned thing would get the rear end hung out a touch and she'd be very busy steering with the next shift far from her mind.
had a buick 455 in a 77 chevy short bed 2 wheel drive,was a hell of a fun truck,kicked alot of camaro and firebirds asses,they are worth the time to swap,alot of people think a 454 is a great engine,no,its a boat anchor compared to a 455 buick or olds,anyone who has owned anything with a good 455 from either buick or olds will agree
Well with that much torq stock a T400 wouldn't be a bad option. My tri 5 is on the heavier side because it is a wagon. C9 - Those motor mounts in your pick are really clean. It makes it look easy!
C9 has the Booick's covered in spades's! I whopped on mine after work (ina '69 C-10 shorty) The '72 has the last 'big head's/factory. Put 'er in the tri-5 mister!
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