My next project is a low budget paint job on new fiberglass. I would like to keep it single stage for both primer and top coat if possible. Like I said it is new fiberglass so I'm hoping a good sanding is enough because the fiberglass is in real good condition being it's new. Is this too much to hope for, and if not what would you guys suggest for primer and finish coat.....Bob
Single stage is just fine for both primer and top coat. Try TCP Global for your painting supplies. You can even get lacquer from them.
You must remove the mold release wax from the glass first. I had a glass car painted by a knowledgeable paint & body guy (collision, custom etc) and he played hell with my 10 yr old gel coat glass car.....lots of fisheyes. I don't do paint , so don't know how to remove this, but I've heard you can't just sand it off
You have to wash off the mold release agent as upspirit said. Wax and grease remover should do the trick. Or ask the manufacturer of the body what they recommend.
No requirement of a catalyst is not single stage. That's going to put you into lacquer products for primer and paint. Old school products need the old school methods. Expect old school results and old school problems. Allow plenty of time for the primer to shrink. Sand it every few coats, don't go too thick or you'll get checking. You go into an enamel without hardner but it may take years to get cured. Wax and grease remover before you sand it, good story soap and water wash after that. Rinse it twice.
https://m.summitracing.com/search/product-line/dupli-color-paint-shop-finish-systems Dupli-color paint shop stuff is all lacquer stuff
Good old fashioned lacquer primer will not stick to fiberglass. There used to be a special primer back in the day (I dont remember the exact name... when the paint shop was still here I was a teenager). The best bet is to use a good polyester primer (PPG-Omni) if needed as a filler, then switch to an epoxy primer for adhesion, then go with your single stage top coats.
Karl I'll have to file this away for the day my roadster gets paint. Your dad loaded it the day we picked it up. I never pass up an opportunity to brag about my Wescott.
Depends on the release agent used, a paste wax will transfer to the part and is harder to get off and will require a release agent remover, there are water based ones available ,wipe on and rinse off, repeat. Semi permanent releases tend not to transfer and a wax & grease, sand with 320 and you're good to go. Best to contact the manufacturer to find out what product he uses. Scotty.
why don't you want to use a catalyst? only a little different than adding milk to your cereal, or measuring scoops of coffee. i have used an industrial detergent [simple green] to wash new fiberglass parts using warm water. 3 washings/3 rinsings, then use the wax and grease remover 3 times, wiping off each time. excessive? i was bit by the fish eye cancer.... sand then epoxy prime. at that point you can put what ever you want on top.
I remember when I was a teen the older guys always used lacquer paints and had beautiful paint jobs but as I got older I herd it was a pita to apply but u got better deeper look in the paint but then I herd over time it would spider web crack no matter ho good of a painter u were and if u wrecked ur car u half to paint the whole thing BC u couldn't blend it very well I don't kno that any of this is true BC I use a 2 stage paint from house of color enamel and it went on smooth as a baby bottom, so I never did get to try out the lacquer paint that I really wanted to use but maybe some day soon but then I will be on here picking ur older guys brains to see how to do it lol but that'll be a diff thread all by it's self lol, hotrod harry Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app HotRod Harry
Autobody tool mart sells Kirker single stage kits that are cheap . Best to clear after for durability. Kirker has trouble matching from batch to batch so save the batch number if you need more later. I found out the hard way and had to totally repaint a pickup because the next batch did not match up. You said budget. Had good luck with Nason paint.
Yes try a product like Evercoat's Slick Sand or Super Build. Both are polyesters so they will adhere to the fiberglass and both have heavy build characteristics.
New glass bodies usually need a lot of massaging to be paint ready. But it is not impossible to get it done. I would use single stage myself just because I don't like the look of the modern paint jobs.
Why does it seam like your stuck on going with Lacquer primer? Its not that hard to mix up a good catalyzed primer and do your priming and filling in one shot.
Catylized paint in general isn't that hard. You just follow the instructions. I like a catylized enamel.
Polyester primers are catalyzed and have no isocyanates and work great with fiberglass. Sent from my HTC One_M8 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I don't remember the name now but there was a catalyzed enamel that they were using in the '80s that was just deadly. I guess without the proper PPM it would coat your lungs and harden. There was not a lot of proper painting/safety technique back here back then.
I am not suggesting that ANY paint is safe to spray without proper saftey gear just that there are no iso's in poly primers as they are definitely an added concern.
I have shot a lot of paint with nothing more than a particle mask. I cannot suggest that anyone do that. Its funny I worked for a factory in SE Kansas that had the first OSHA compliant and first federally compliant filtration system in that part of the country. The painter was shooting paint with a particle mask. PPM is the way to go, especially with the new environmentally safe paints.
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