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broken stud with an broken ez out in it

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by old1946truck, Oct 22, 2012.

  1. old1946truck
    Joined: Apr 9, 2008
    Posts: 685


    What is the best way to remove an broken off exhaust manifold stud with a broken ez out in it? Its about 1/8th of an inch from being flush with the block. Do I have any hope or am I screwed? Would a carbide drill bit be able to do it? I'm not worried about putting a thread insert in it as long as I can get the ez out out and the old stud.
  2. Ok..this is how I do it and I've never failed to get the broken bolt/stud out.
    1..wire brush the piece sticking out till it's clean.
    2.. find a flat washer that fits over the protruding stud reasonably close. If it's plated, grind the plating off.
    3...weld the washer to the protruding stud, welding down through the hole in the washer.
    4..weld a non-plated nut to the washer and wait for the red color to slowly change to gray..use a wrench to turn the nut/stud/broken off easy-out, out.
  3. old1946truck
    Joined: Apr 9, 2008
    Posts: 685


    Sorry I meant and 1/8th of an inch inside the hole from being flush with the block...
  4. Then you'll have to remove the manifold to gain access to the stud.

  5. old1946truck
    Joined: Apr 9, 2008
    Posts: 685


    yeah I already had the manifold off when it happened
  6. stude_trucks
    Joined: Sep 13, 2007
    Posts: 4,755


    I can't offer any definitive help, but doesn't sound too promising. Maybe have to have it machined out, but the ez-out is made of carbide, right? If so, it will probably chew up a few bits working it out.

    Might have to try another type of reverse out thing to get the ez-out out first and then retry with a fresh one to get the stud.
  7. old1946truck
    Joined: Apr 9, 2008
    Posts: 685


    Hmmm what about a left handed drill bit I might be able to catch the stud and back it all out together?
  8. I had a similar issue a while back. I just cleaned out what I could reach with break free CLP and then brake cleaner to get rid of any residue and then I put a dab about the size of a Q-tip head of JB Weld on the broken bolt and then I screwed a fresh bolt in pretty tight. Left it over night and then I douched the thing in WD and Break Free CLP. I let that set for about an hour and then I slowly backed the bolt out. I was afraid that the JB Weld would gum up the threads, but everything came out clean as a whistle.

    Maybe only try this as a last resort.

  9. Shaggy
    Joined: Mar 6, 2003
    Posts: 5,208

    from Sultan, WA

    I doubt they are carbide, because carbide is too brittle to be used like that, it'd snap, probably HSS

    I've never drilled out an ez out, but i am Mr. fixit at work and ive drilled many a tap and drill bit, in my opinion id drill it out with carbide, i wouldnt do it on the rig b/c carbide is so brittle it'd snap if you cock the drill at all, then you are really f'd. Instead secure it REALLY well in a drill press or better yet use a mill. DONT forget also that it is VERY easy to break the bit when you start drilling, take it easy, if you have access to a mill dont use the quill, instead ease it in with the z-axis crank
  10. UncleDonnie
    Joined: Apr 1, 2012
    Posts: 110


    The Easy Out is in a hole you drilled so it should be round and have some depth. The next part your gonna have to find a small amount (a cup) of liquid Nitrogen, freeze it but not to much surrounding area. Wear safety goggles and give it a good whack with a small pointed punch and hammer, this should fracture the Easy Out into small pieces to be picked out of the hole with the add of an air nozzle.

    Now you can build up (weld) starting with something in the hole the EO once lived in. You can protect the machined surface and welding the threads together with a copper piece fashioned fit in the original threaded hole and a flat copper plate with a hole cover around this. Weld a nut on the build up after all of the copper is removed.

    Now for the heat and violence! Apply heat not to change color but hot, douche with PB Blaster. Now put a wrench on this and tap left and right. Heat, douche, violence repeatedly till you get movement. Finesse is the key or you'll twist off the build up again.

    twist it out, chase a tap in it, should be good as new!

  11. If it's your typical spiral fluted easy out, you may be able to grind a center punch into a very small chisel and use that to rotate it back to the right and get it to release. If you get it out, try this for the stud. Oh, and you're SURE you didn't drill out into the head threads right?

    Heat the area around the hole (not the hole itself) and press a candle down over the hole until it fills with wax to the top. While still hot, try another easy out (but don't break this one off!). If you are out into the head threads, you've got big problems...
  12. 26Troadster
    Joined: Nov 20, 2010
    Posts: 582

    from Texas

    i know carbide will cut it but is brittle so be careful, i have to do this every once in awhile here at the shop.
  13. dudley32
    Joined: Jan 2, 2008
    Posts: 2,102


    EZ outs are notorious for snapping...I only use them after I've drilled the bolt 2 or 3 times....'til there's hardly anything left...
  14. papajohn
    Joined: Nov 2, 2006
    Posts: 863


    When all else fails, Ram EDM
  15. hotrodderhaag
    Joined: Jan 22, 2007
    Posts: 2,117


    Snap on tools makes a broken easy out and tap remover.. And trust me it works .... If its the correct type of easy out ..
  16. wedgeheaded
    Joined: Apr 25, 2011
    Posts: 25


    Old school method was to heat the head and bolt with a cutting torch till glowing, then bust the busted stud with oxygen from the torch. The head, being cast, expands at a different rate than the bolt. Blows right out. I don't know how the EZ out will enter into the equation though.
  17. Shaggy
    Joined: Mar 6, 2003
    Posts: 5,208

    from Sultan, WA

    i screwed up a flattie head that way, there wasnt enough meat to take the pressure of the ez-out screwing in and it swelled the bolt up enough to crack the casting, fixable, but dammit!!
  18. You can still do the welding trick.
    The weld won't stick to the cast iron or aluminum head.
    You can melt it out with a torch too.

    Try it first on some scrap cast and see and practice, it works.
  19. RichFox
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 9,950


    I also have removed broken taps with a carbide drill and Shaggy has it right.
  20. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 10,313

    from Missouri

    If you have a welder I would get some weld on the bolt tell it is too the serface then weld a nut to it . Then you want to heat the nut and stud red hot and cool it with water . Do this 5 times it will shrink the stud . If the not brakes off weld another one on and repeat the heat and cool process again . This works for me some times you my go through severl nut but it will give it up sooner or later.
  21. tig master
    Joined: Apr 9, 2009
    Posts: 416

    tig master
    from up north

    Quit all the nonsense of edm,nitrogen,tap removers,left hand drill bits,carbide jb weld.Just follow the video as explained in an earlier post.I have done dozens and never been stumped.6/32" to 3/4" You won't do this with a 110 volt mig.A good mig or tig will get it done.It sounds like you don't weld so get a buddy who can.Take it to a welding shop they will get it out in a heartbeat.Its not rocket science.Rockey knows in post #2.It takes longer to read these posts than it will take to get it out.

  22. gatz
    Joined: Jun 2, 2011
    Posts: 1,507


    of all the misnomers in the world, "EZ Out" has got to be near the top o' the list
  23. yeah.....i don't call them EZ Outs , i call them "fuck it up even worsers"
  24. Just think about it, you've got a bolt that's stuck hard enough to snap the original bolt diameter. Now we'll take a tool that has less than half that bolt diameter, harden it to the edge of reality and expect it to remove the bolt.

    Maybe they work well in old grade 2 quality bolts that twist the heads off before they get tight.
  25. terryble
    Joined: Sep 25, 2008
    Posts: 541

    from canada

    If there is any thread left in the hole in that 1/8 inch or so you refered to take a 1 inch bolt that is the right size (3/8) I assume and drill a 1/4 inch hole right through it length wise of coarse. Screw it in to the hole snug but not so tight that youpull out those few threads. Now mig weld down the hole to the broken stud let it cool for a second, put a wrench on the head and screw it out. This has worked but is really a last ditch effort.
  26. If the stud hole goes all the way through the manifold and you can feed enough of a bolt through it, I just drill them out and do away with them, and put a bolt in instead. If I have to grind back one side of the head to make it work so be it. Lots easier to just trash a 10-cent bolt and put in another one than dick with a broken stud. And they all break, even one I put in a still-clean manifold, myself.
  27. DrJ
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 9,418


    I've never had an EZ-out NOT break so quit bothering with them decades ago.
    I use a 1/4" wide chisel and tap it around till it backs out. Same with whats left of the bolt
    Wear safety glasses for sure!
  28. Thats great for the flange to pipe joint.
    His is in the block.
  29. arkiehotrods
    Joined: Mar 9, 2006
    Posts: 5,935


    A friend of mine used this trick on my '53 F-100 twenty-five years ago. Took him all of five minutes and i was good to go. Worked slicker'n deer guts on a doorknob!
  30. Carbide, in a milling machine.

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