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Projects BRIAN MADE ME DO IT now with Video!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Bandit Billy, Nov 6, 2017.

  1. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 8,529

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

  2. What happens when you get the edges so thin they won't carry 100 amps let alone 500 amps. ??
     
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  3. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 8,294

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    o_O What’s all this talk of 100-500 amps capacity nonsense :confused: :D
    Are you guys secretly adding arc welding generators into your cars? :D
    As far as I know most auto electrical systems are nowhere near that much amperage.
     
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  4. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 3,237

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Doesn't a perfectly running high torque mini starter have the capability to pull over 200 amps?
     
    31Vicky with a hemi and loudbang like this.
  5. I'll bet you that your battery has something close to 500 cold cranking amps.
    Every engine is different and every starter is different but pulling 300 amps plus on a performance engine is pretty standard operating procedure. Let something get out of whack, heat soaked, or anything else that happens to hotrods and the amps go up from there.
    Yes It's short duration.
     
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  6. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 8,294

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Ah yes short term cranking amps. I see :D
     
  7. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 3,237

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    For an extra 20 bucks I'd rather be safe than real, real sorry.
     
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  8. flynbrian48
    Joined: Mar 10, 2008
    Posts: 5,831

    flynbrian48
    Member

    Wowza! That's stunning. :cool:
     
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  9. tb33anda3rd
    Joined: Oct 8, 2010
    Posts: 12,806

    tb33anda3rd
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Connecticut HAMB'ers

    i hate connections in the middle of a battery cable. i think i would just plan to disconnect it at the solenoid [10 extra minutes?], for that most likely, odd time, that you decide to remove the body.
     
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  10. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 3,237

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Agreed completely, if that were possible. But that 1 gauge wire has to be run outside the body as there is no room inside for it once it gets tot he door jamb. I don't like cables tied to the frame rail personally so I have hidden mine under the car's channel. It must move inside the car after the door opening though and that requires bending a rather large cable (not going to happen) or some type of bulkhead terminal.
     
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  11. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 3,237

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Considering the source, I take that as the highest compliment!
     
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  12. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 8,294

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    I’m not going to be able to hide my battery cables that way so I’m trying to come up with some ideas on routing them along the frame.

    The main issue I envision is that #2 welding cable is not stiff and will sag between mounting clips.
    What to do :confused:. Hmmm :D
     
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  13. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 3,237

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Before I opted for my solution, I was facing the same dilemma. One idea was to run the power cable inside a stainless tube (polished of course). Number 2 cable is .378 diameter, so a run of 1/2" tube will make it easy to push the cable through, a little WD40 wouldn't hurt. It would look a lot tidier than a droopy cable. The tubing would be easy to bend without crimping with the cable run inside it too.
     
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  14. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 8,294

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Not a bad idea, the only concern I might have would be the end of the tubing cutting it's way through the insulation and causing a short out at some time.

    Wonder if there are any other similar solutions.
    Having a sealed rectangular tube frame I don't have the option of going inside that.
     
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  15. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 8,529

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    Black PEX tubing.
    It wouldn't look too bad if available in straight sections to eliminate sagging, it's ridgid and non conductive. Not sure how you would deal with bends, maybe use the coiled type.

    Example
    Looks like the 5/8" has a .584 I.D. perfect for 1/2" cable.


    Edit
    Note the true O.D. differs from the call out dimensions.


    https://www.pexuniverse.com/pex-tubing-technical-specs
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2018
  16. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 3,237

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Nah, just hammer a flair in the end. Think stainless spark plug wire looms. Same idea.
     
    Tim and loudbang like this.
  17. Much easier to pull than push
     
  18. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 8,294

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Since I’m using cunifer (nickel copper) for my brake and fuel lines I wonder if you can get it in 1/2” ?
    It would look good and bend nicely too.
     
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  19. tb33anda3rd
    Joined: Oct 8, 2010
    Posts: 12,806

    tb33anda3rd
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Connecticut HAMB'ers

    i built a 31 chevy, a whole lifetime ago, and before i boxed the frame i tacked a length of 1"emt to the inside of the frame and bent both ends in. i drilled the boxing plates [big] and slid them over the ends of the tube, welded them [filling in the big space around the tube] then cut and ground them flush. i did this on both rails and could fish wires through. i know it is too late for this build but i wonder of it could be done with the flexible conduit, used by electricians, for an existing boxed frame like in Larry's situation?
     
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  20. tb33anda3rd
    Joined: Oct 8, 2010
    Posts: 12,806

    tb33anda3rd
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Connecticut HAMB'ers

  21. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 8,294

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Another interesting solution however for my frame there’s no way I could get anything from one end to the other inside the rails because of the large angled holes I built into the frame for my exhaust to pass through.

    On top of that there’s a very large number of pieces of mig wire sticking out inside them from fabrication of the frame reveal and also the curving of the frame. :D
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2018
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  22. loudbang likes this.
  23. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 3,237

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I hate straightening heavy tubing (anything over 3/16). I needed a straight 6 foot piece of Stainless 3/8" and summit delivered it to me the other day. Beats rolling it out on the floor.
    I think this would be a cool alternative to a long run of red cable under the car.
    I was at the shop the other day to yak with the owner, he had a hot rod on the lift so I got to walk underneath and see her underpinnings. Nice car on the surface, I'd been embarrassed to own what was underneath. Not saying every ones car should be a show car but they should at least be good cars.
     
  24. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 8,294

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    I'd agree with that, at least clean tidy and functional.
     
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  25. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 3,237

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Exactly! It would be silly and a waste of resources to take it any further than that.
     
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  26. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 3,237

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Another weekend in the trenches. I made some progress, kind of Texas two step, one step forward, two steps back. I prepped the body for mounting. The light coming in via the roll up makes the shade whiter but this is the underside.
    upload_2018-2-18_18-52-48.png
    It came out very nice for an underside that most will never see.
    upload_2018-2-18_18-54-14.png
    Then I slid the frame under the body and aligned it for the drop
    upload_2018-2-18_18-55-56.png
    I ran into a couple of issues, nothing that cannot be remedied in the next couple of days but needless to say the body is not bolted down yet.
    upload_2018-2-18_18-58-1.png
    I did run over to Tandy leather store in Portland Saturday and grabbed 3 complete hides, 2 dark brown and one tan.
    upload_2018-2-18_19-0-21.png
    This is going to be cool. The soft hand leather is for the seat and door panels, the waxed is for the trunk, seat back and kick panels. They had full hides for 99 bucks each. Hard to beat that price and those are 4oz hides.
     
  27. tb33anda3rd
    Joined: Oct 8, 2010
    Posts: 12,806

    tb33anda3rd
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Connecticut HAMB'ers

    will 3 hides be enough?
     
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  28. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 3,237

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I have no idea. Seriously! The upholsterer came by Friday and he though2 and half would do it. It is a bench seat roadster, but I worry that I don't have enough. This is all they had at that price. We will soon see. The upholsterer is already working up the door panel ideas. fingers crossed.
     
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  29. tb33anda3rd
    Joined: Oct 8, 2010
    Posts: 12,806

    tb33anda3rd
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Connecticut HAMB'ers

    he should know. if i plan on something, i always buy more or run out.:rolleyes:
    here is a math problem i posed to a contractor friend of mine:
    you are fixing up a room in your house and calculate that you need nine 2x4's. you already have six new ones in the basement. you go buy eight more at home depot........how many will you be short? :D
     

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