The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 402BOSSMAN, Nov 12, 2017.
What is the installed height at the sump?
Depends on the pan / pump combo. If I were to go with the Milodon I would have to get the 7.5" version of the pump I just got. I have the 8.25" version which I had planned to modify. The pickup is machined on a 5° angle or so, one side is lower than the other. I'm considering taking a wedge out of the pan I have now, may be the easiest route to take for what I want.
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I have been completely buried with work in my shop, far too much for one guy to handle but I'm managing lol. There are a few updates I can share. Speedway Motors in Lincoln, Nebraska came up to my shop at the end of August to see what I thought about their cylinder head offering. We did some flow testing and I got to share what their competition looks like. Overall, it was a great visit and we all learned some things. They even brought their photographer along to help document on their end. These pictures are some I took showing what their head looks like to an original. They were gracious enough to leave a set behind for me to play with and see what the possibilities are. Thank you to the folks at Speedway Motors!
On my project I've been really torn on the direction to take it in so I've just set it in the corner for awhile. The competitive nature in me wants to go crazy and snowball this project but then I would be going in a direction far from what I originally intended. So I decided to do another separate build to suit both purposes thanks to finding a block that came up for sale!
This is a Bowtie Block from GM Performance and is unique. Its a 3.970 bore, 283 Main with Billet Caps, 2 pc Rear Seal, Standard Cam Bore (and location), Standard Lifter Bore Size, and a Short Deck Block meaning 8.800 Deck Height (notice the water pump holes). These are commonly used in Super Stock, Comp Eliminator, and NASCAR (early 2000's). So this block allows me to create a massive snowball for lets say a "Plan B."
I already have a pile of parts sitting here I've collected over the years so here I'm piecing a few ideas together to get a feel for what I'd like to do. Billet Crankshaft 3.270 stroke, Jesel Belt Drive, Kevko Full Sump Pan w/ Kickout, RHS/Pro Action 14° Cast Iron heads that are common among current Jr Fuel ranks, etc..... Maybe make a slightly larger cubic inch with this one? Time will tell.
I have come across a few more crankshafts that I snagged so maybe the stroke change that I'm after won't be too bad to do. I'm to the point where I need to finish the block machine work - Deck, Bore, Hone, and Install the Lifter Bushings. Just need a few days to tackle that when time frees up hopefully soon.
Although I am drooling at the new stuff , I feel that maybe a lot of guys want to see the original project come to fruition...
Been awhile since I looked in here. Jr fuel so it's gonna be on nitro? Lippy
Yeh, Nick, please hire a helper (just) so you can get back on that little 283.
We don't care what it costs!
That's the plan Lumpy, the question was asked so I wanted to explain how things have transpired.
Well that was the original idea, however once I learned what you have to go through with "Homeland Security" to deal with it I tossed in the towel. It will end up on alcohol most likely for the time being until I can figure out what to do.
Time and money Denny, always a struggle!
Yeah, I'm looking for a career change.....
Nick, Racer X (Brian) has mentioned online about the problems nowadays obtaining Nitromethane, as he uses it at the strip in his beautiful, bad ass Chyrsler coupe that he runs in Drag Week.
We used to run competition go karts on nitro, before there were all the regulations, didn't know about the new rules till he mentioned it
Its only an issue if you have 400# (42gal) or more of Nitro, split the cost/nitro between racers and there is no issue
If I were retired, I would come up there and sweep the floors just to hang out and watch.
I am retired but broom handles don't fit my hand, I'll bring the beer.
Can you share the results of the Speedway head tests?
I spent the evening reading it.
Some meticulous work going on.
What will you run as a dampener with the Hilborn timing cover and pump??
I'm about to start on a injected 327 SBC with the same 2 1/16" bores .
And I'm wondering what to put on the end of the crank.
Maybe I should be asking in a seperate thread ?
I will leave it up to Speedway to share their information. I believe they plan to in the near future.
The issue is having a small enough diameter so it won't hit the pump. I will likely run a 6-3/8" diameter ATI Balancer on mine.
For the guys that wish to sweep the floors just a heads up.......you have competition from 3 young men.
My oldest Nathan working on his Pinewood Derby Car on my mill.
Yea that's really my main question.
What clears the factory Hilborn pump set up and provides the proper damping
for something like this and was a off the shelf part in your plans.
I had seen some early solid billet set ups .
Moroso used to sell one. Maybe for a blower drive .
I have seen pumps ground for clearance .
Great picture of your shop helper.
wow, what awesome work, I have a new (to me) 283 in my chevy truck that was built by an old hot rod guy for his son, son went LS1 and the motor came to via car gang membership in the South Omaha Turds group. We are adding a new HEI and an Edelbrock air gap intake and Edelbrock carb. The motor sound great but is running poorly due to Hei being bad, so can't wait to get this all running right. OOOPs, kinda got carried away with MY world, sorry. Build that rocket bro.
Speedway Motors Tech Talk GM 461 Double Hump Chevy SBC Aluminum Heads
Thanks Peter, that was actually pretty well structured for a promotional video.
Curious whether these are cast specifically for Speedway or are they the same ones that Trick Flow offers?
I like the upgrades for the most part, too bad they didn't make the casting "look" like the oems' when they raised the gasket rail, I also see they (smartly) included the temperature sender hole, these were first introduced on the late 67/68 "291" heads, the last of the true camel hump castings before going to the accessory bolt heads.
Many years ago I acquired a pair of them NOS in GM boxes with all new GM valves, "O" stamped rocker arms, springs, keepers, etc in seperate boxes, the head boxes were stamped
"initial Corvette stock".
Forgot the photo.
Nick, I love the picture of your son working on his Pinewood Derby car! It won’t be long until we start on our car too! By the way, thanks for telling us about the new heads from Speedway! I watched the video, they didn’t say, what size are the combustion chambers? I think I just found my next heads!
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For an aftermarket set of heads, sure would have been nice to ALSO include the 7 bolt Stahl/Brodix exhaust pattern instead of using adapter plates to run bigger pipes
I agree wholeheartedly. Yet, from a traditional standpoint, large tube headers wouldn't look "right" without the adapter plates. JMO.
As you no doubt know, 1&3/4" tube headers bolt directly to small blocks, the 1&7/8" and up require adapter plates and unless it's going to be used as Nick plans to do they would be too big for the average small block, I used them on a 350 in the late 70's and for my combination at the time they really were a bit too big but I had intentions of a more serious engine had I continued the effort.
I am definitely aware of that fact, as I'm running 1 3/4" on a set of 461's presently. At times, I think they might be a tad too much for street use though. Nah, who am I kidding...
As a builder of exhaust headers , its a PITA having to beat the end of the tubing to fit the flange. Much simpler to fit round tubing into a round port. 7 bolt flange for 1 3/4" bends and still be able to use a socket on the exhaust flange bolts
As a follower of this thread since it began, to me it's a PITA to find all this discussion of what Speedway or Trick Flow should have or actually did to their heads and how best to connect headers to these heads.
To me.this thread is about constructing a very special engine from the beginning by a man who is highly skilled in race related preparation to the ultimate in precision and willing to take the time and expense to equip his shop with machinery to do the required work.
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