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Technical Braking solution for '65 Bonneville

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Pacityza, May 30, 2018.

  1. Pacityza
    Joined: May 29, 2018
    Posts: 14

    Pacityza
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    I must preface, I had a mental block and didn't quite understand how HAMB itemizes things, and accidentally posted the previous thread under "projects" and not "technical" (hopefully I don't screw this one up )

    Anyway, I had been asking about a solution to a reliable braking system for my 1965 Pontiac Bonneville and had been pointed away from using a dual master as I had thought that was a good idea. However, I am still curious, if I can find a compatible Dual Drum/Drum master, would it be worth the hassle and cost of it, or simply plumbing a single master and making sure my E-Brake works well?
     
  2. Should be a near bolt on swap, using one from a slightly newer Pontiac. You will need the drum-drum proportioning valve to go with it.

    In fact it's probably cheaper long run than the stock one, you can buy the dual master at most any parts house. The rest is just running lines.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  3. Rock Auto may have a later booster/master combo from a '67 to '70 big Pontiac that would work out.
     
  4. I did that swap on my 65 Pontiac,
    used the dual master cyl from a 67 Pontiac, bolted on.
     

  5. Pacityza
    Joined: May 29, 2018
    Posts: 14

    Pacityza
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    Are you two referring to Disc/Drum masters or Drum/drum masters? Because on my previous posts I was pointed away from Disc/drum ones because of the nature of disc masters not being completely compatible with drum brakes.
     
  6. 67-68, 4 piston disc leakers optional. Came with 15 ' wheels. Somewhat rare.
    69, newer, discs standard. Single piston, D 52 pads
     
  7. Pacityza
    Joined: May 29, 2018
    Posts: 14

    Pacityza
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    I should mention, since I didn't make it very clear, I am keeping the 4 wheel drum setup, as I cannot afford (or even find a reasonably priced) disc brake conversion for this car.
     
  8. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 3,271

    F-ONE
    Member
    from Alabama

    Safety discussions on a forum quickly go into that other world. The world of theory.....the world of pay to play....the world of forum debate and one upmanship.....
    What one man considers "safe" makes another have nightmares, go into a fetal position, suck his thumb, find his safe place or at least provide platform for argument.
    This is my opinion and mine alone.....
    Brakes? You have to know your shit.
    With the OEM system, you know what you have.
    If you don't know shit about designing a brake system one that will actually work, stick with the OEM system and make sure it"s perfect. Then drive, check, maintain, adjust and anticipate potential problems that a 53 year old car will have.
     
  9. BigDogSS
    Joined: Jan 8, 2009
    Posts: 979

    BigDogSS
    Member
    from SoCal

    Just do what Unkl Ian did --> dual master cylinder from a 1967. No proportioning valve for drum brakes. There is a brass distribution block that you will need. Get a power brake booster too. Use all stock parts.
     
    Unkl Ian likes this.
  10. Pacityza
    Joined: May 29, 2018
    Posts: 14

    Pacityza
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    I like this idea, (especially because I have most the parts for it). I'll just make sure the Emergency Brake is functional
     
  11. 69-70 complete spindle and brake assembly .
     
  12. The brass block is key, you can shop around for them. How are you at making new lines up? You might find pre-made ones that will go on as is with some creative routing.

    OR... keep the single master. Look over the brake lines, replace all 3 hoses, make sure the e-brake is working. With all my old cars, I've only had 1 brake failure due to a rotted out piece of brake line.
     
  13. Pacityza
    Joined: May 29, 2018
    Posts: 14

    Pacityza
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    The lines were completely rotted, I need to replace all the hydraulic hardware (minus the wheel cylinders, I've done those already). I'm going with Cupronickel lines as I've heard good things about them. I've already got new hoses installed. I've just been waiting to fix the lines until I came to a conclusion on what to do with the master.
    I think I'll go with the single, as it's way simpler and its OEM, so its proven to work. No risks minus the inherent ones.
     
  14. I updated the MS on my f100 to a dual MS
    the brass distribution block and extra line was the only mod required
    didnt use a prop valve for the drum brakes
    the brass block was sourced at NAPA
    drum brakes are fine when working properly
     

  15. My '67 was 4 wheel drums, same as my 65.
     
  16. I'm not big on the copper alloy lines, if they came in straight sticks I might try them. I've flared so many ends of the steel lines over the years I rarely do a bad flare.
     

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