Ok guys, Im trying to figure out in advance how my brake system will be like. So far i have front F1 brakes, rear 59 Ford drums. Wonder what master cylinder I'll be using. Should I go with stainless steel lines ? Not quite sure but I think I saw on several cvars some sort of valves running through the brake system along the lines. What is that for ? Everything's to be mounted on a 34' frame. Would like to see some pics of your setup if possible. Thanks for any advice. Diego
Stainless lines are nice, but probably an unnecessary expense. 3/16" steel lines work great for me... Depends how much $$ you want to spend. Believe the valves you are referring to are proportional and residual valves. Check this thread out: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=232248&highlight=proportional+valves
what 32 sedan said on the lines...skip the stainless and just go with regular 3/16 inch steel lines with inverted flare fittings use the world famous`68 Ford mustang drum/drum master cylinder....Napa part # 10-1485 if you have them down there. no proportioning valve is needed, but put 10 lb residuals valves in both front and rear lines and you will be fine to adapt the lines to the master cylinder you will need some fittings...Weatherhead part numbers 258350 and 258302 will do that for you
Thanks 32sedan, been reading quite a lot. Ill consider the mustang cylinder..., is there any other option ? So, no proportioning valves needed since Im running a drum/drum system but I read that a combination valve is needed on disc/disc or drum/drum, in conjunction wth the residual valves. What is it the combination valve for ? Finally what are "differential valves" ? Thanks again D.
Check out www.earlyV8garage.qpg.com - I'll be using Richard's master cylinder/e-brake setup for converting my stock '33 to hydraulic drum brakes. He's here on the HAMB under EarlyV8Garage I think.
to learn about brakes, i suggest you study both Master Power Brakes and ECI Brakes tech sections , they should fill you in as to what you need to know: http://www.mpbrakes.com/technical-support/overview.cfm http://ecihotrodbrakes.com/brake_facts.html after absorbing all that info. here is what you do: use the master cylinder i suggested , use 10 lb residuals in both front and rear lines as i suggested , and FORGET about proportioning/combination/ valves for now. if you have a stock X-member , use this mounting bracket and brake pedal from Pete & Jakes and you will all set up.this stuff will put the master cylinder under the floor wheer it belongs on a `34 Ford . master cylinders on the firewall of a `34 are not right http://www.peteandjakes.com/parts/3334/33_mc.htm http://www.peteandjakes.com/parts/3334/33_pedal.htm
Go to speedwaymotors.com they have some nice diagrams and explinations of the different valves and how to run them. My car has a disc/drum combo I got a lot of the parts there and it works great. (no I don't work there!) I ran an adjustuble proportioning valve on the rear brakes. I would put one in even with a drum/drum setup. It's alot easier to put it in on the build up than retro fit it later (my rear wheels would lock up bad!). With drum brakes you should run 10psi check valves. It keeps pressure on the spings and helps give you a firmer pedal. The master cylinder will work high or lown, just figure out where it fits best in your car. I have 11" GM disc and 10" ford drums with a manual master cylinder and it stops on a dime!
Welcome! Preference really. I believe that mounting the master under the floor is cleaner w/access panel in your floor. As long as you do not have leaks, you'll RARELY have to check your fill levels. So mounting below is a nice place to hide it and close to your brake line plumbing. Speedway is a good resource. I just bought their Aluminum 1" bore master. Aluminum/SS masters are good as the fluid doesn't eat up the finish... my 2 pennies
Plenty of advice here, but as I posted earlier, check out EarlyV8Garage. You can use your stock pedals with their setup and do not have to modify anything on your original frame - not even drill any holes. It bolts right up in original frame holes and allows you to use your stock emergency brake too. With anything else you will have to start modifying stuff.
Hi Guido, Thanks !! Thing is I dont have any stock brake part left, even pedals. So I dont think its worth for me. Just for the fact of not having to modify the frame. But I think thats a pretty straight forward task, not major surgery. Diego