Technical BRAKES, ansen pedal question...

The bores on the Chevy are the same the only differance is the residual valve. Just swap the complete internals from one side to the other. As far as pushrods go I used pieces of old shifter linkage for mine.

 

thanks for the pictures guys,

this look like Tech O Matic stuff to me.

bttt

Paul

 

Who made this?????? and is it made for the truck set-up??

 

Wow...this is an excellent post. I just realized that the pedal set-up I have that Honest was copying was actually made by (or for) Moon. Thanks for the picture '60s Style.

The Ansen pedal assembly is actually a nicer piece. I saw one sell on ebay a couple of months ago...it was all chromed...and sold for more than $300 if I remember right. I think I have the picture saved...I'll see if I can find it.

These guys are right about the bores being the same diameter. I've heard different stories on the residual pressure valve. Some people say you don't need to do anything to the M/C, others say swap the internals. I'm not sure if a residual valve would really make much difference since the M/C is mounted above the brakes at the wheels.

I'll also add that Big Ric ended up having an engineer figure out that he needed a larger slave cylinder than the factory truck one to decrease clutch pedal effort. Maybe he could chime in here with the part number for the slave cylinder he used?

 

CTFuzz Ansens will be stamped with thier name on them. Speedway used to carry them so it could be one of thiers, also Transdapt made some at one time, dont know if they are still in production. With the popularity of this setup Im surprised the manufacters stopped production on these units.

 

CTFuzz, that one looks as if it is made to use two of the old ford master cylinders that have the small triangular bolt pattern. It does not have the 60-62 chevy truck or international truck pattern. The two large holes look to be slightly farther apart than the chevy type also.

 

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I'll also add that Big Ric ended up having an engineer figure out that he needed a larger slave cylinder than the factory truck one to decrease clutch pedal effort. Maybe he could chime in here with the part number for the slave cylinder he used?

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So is he running 2 different cylinders now or did he find another combo that fit.

Bass, I know you have driven his car. How hard was it to push in? My leg is a little wimpy so I might need to rethink what I'm gonna use before I get to far into this project.

 

Thanks......I have the master but not here. I can make it work.

 

Greezy. From what I have been told by Sppedway Motors, this set up has been discontinued due to the diffulculty in finding the early 60s truck dual master cylinders--in other words, you cant just stop in at autozone or advance auto and pick one up. The one available through NAPA is remanufactured-any new ones available??? I dont know. We did switch the guts between the two sides of the chevy one, and the clutch and brake both work great.I will try to take a picture of our slave cylinder and the small bracket we made to mount it. Dale

 

I bought my MC at O'Reillys new Wagner and the matching slave cylinder. the new masters are pricey. But i can see the point if that was the case of production halts.

 

I bought the Internationa M/C (the one that doesn't need the internals switched) off the shelf: Bendix P/N # 11357.

But.... does anyone have a source for the pushrods that bolt on the SIDE of the pedal arms? (look at the Moon diagram at the start of this post). Thanks.

 

Detonator, I've been looking online for the International MC and cant find it. Been to some places that had Bendix and used the # and found nothing.

Do you have a link where you can get one?I would like to check it out as compared to the Chevy.

 

I bought my Chev. one locally for $23(reman) plus core. I had grabbed a core from the junkyard to mock-up so that was no problem.


I'm running my master as a dual brake master, front lines hooked to one side rear to other. I didn't realise that internals were different side to side(should have known though). This might explain my brake problem .

 

I have made the push rods out of a hard bolt. Using a rod end that screws onto the right size bolt (3/8 or larger) just cut the bolt to the right length and radius the end that goes to the master cylinder. Dont forget to put a stop on the pedal to prevent the pushrod from pulling out of the mc and leaving you with no brakes! A return spring is also a good idea.