The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 34Joe, Oct 21, 2021.
Brakes can be a mathematical problem, your chasing your tail till you get a gauge................
Thanks for the info. At this point I would be happy to get a decent brake pedal.
Right now I could use some input as to who sells a quality booster and master cylinder.
Master Power Brakes among others, easier to say who to not buy from than who to buy from......
Appreciate the info.
These guys have good reputation, but I have not used their product.
Thanks for the info, that is Master Power Brake .I am going to give them a call on monday and see what they can do. Possibly they can also set the .020 gap between the booster and master cylinder as this is a time consuming pain when trying to do it in the car through the master cylinder access hole.
I haven't read the whole thread.........But have you changed the Pads?
This is cheap to do and will help eliminate some concerns.
The pedal going to the floor then going hard usually means pad knock off or a caliper flexing issue [which I asked before]
Single piston floating calipers can also bend the pads with too much pressure in one area.[then cause knock-off when released]
They will wear in a "U" shape
Excess pedal travel and poor stopping usually means a caliper issue [unless the M/C bottoms out]
If your line pressures are good, it wont be a M/C issue
A check for air in the system is to pump the brakes and hold them down real hard. Then release the brakes and observe the fluid in the master cylinder (fill cap off). If there is no air in the system, you should see fluid return from the compensating port making a small swell in the fluid above the port. If you have trapped air, the fluid will shoot up very high out of the compensating port, even out of the the top of the master cylinder.
The front disc brake pads have 12,000 miles on them. I checked for pad knock off the other day. I was unable to get a .005 feeler gauge between the rotor and pads. I had no problems until I replaced the power booster and master cylinder.
This I will have to try once I get a new booster and master cylinder installed. Appreciate the info.
Long shot but ...check to see if booster reaction disc has moved or dropped out..?
I've had it happen.. the MC pushrod was pulled out a bit too far.
Result was about 3/8" play before the master started to stroke
Low pedal, soft brakes due to reduced volume of fluid pushed.
Do not have to check for that now as the booster and master cylinder have been returned for a refund. I need some info on who has quality parts .This will be the third time I am doing this, need a happy ending. Thanks for the info.
You can usually get a happy ending for an extra $30 and a wink before she starts.
You said good pressure, at the bleeders? Around 8 or 9 hundred # on a normal stop, up to around 18 hundred # on a full panic lockup stop?
I was only eyeballing it not using any gauges. Moot point now as the booster and master cylinder have been returned for a refund. Need to get some quality parts for round 3.
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