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Technical Brake System Issues.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 34Joe, Oct 21, 2021.

  1. brigrat
    Joined: Nov 9, 2007
    Posts: 5,451

    brigrat
    Member
    from Wa.St.

    Brakes can be a mathematical problem, your chasing your tail till you get a gauge................
     
  2. 34Joe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2010
    Posts: 191

    34Joe
    Member

    Thanks for the info. At this point I would be happy to get a decent brake pedal.
     
  3. 34Joe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2010
    Posts: 191

    34Joe
    Member

    Right now I could use some input as to who sells a quality booster and master cylinder.
     
  4. brigrat
    Joined: Nov 9, 2007
    Posts: 5,451

    brigrat
    Member
    from Wa.St.

    Master Power Brakes among others, easier to say who to not buy from than who to buy from......
     
  5. 34Joe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2010
    Posts: 191

    34Joe
    Member

    Appreciate the info.
     
  6. 34Joe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2010
    Posts: 191

    34Joe
    Member

    Thanks for the info, that is Master Power Brake .I am going to give them a call on monday and see what they can do. Possibly they can also set the .020 gap between the booster and master cylinder as this is a time consuming pain when trying to do it in the car through the master cylinder access hole.
     
  7. Mimilan
    Joined: Jun 13, 2019
    Posts: 1,005

    Mimilan
    Member

    I haven't read the whole thread.........But have you changed the Pads?
    This is cheap to do and will help eliminate some concerns.

    The pedal going to the floor then going hard usually means pad knock off or a caliper flexing issue [which I asked before]
    Single piston floating calipers can also bend the pads with too much pressure in one area.[then cause knock-off when released]
    They will wear in a "U" shape

    Excess pedal travel and poor stopping usually means a caliper issue [unless the M/C bottoms out]
    If your line pressures are good, it wont be a M/C issue
     
    bchctybob likes this.
  8. jaracer
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 1,311

    jaracer
    Member

    A check for air in the system is to pump the brakes and hold them down real hard. Then release the brakes and observe the fluid in the master cylinder (fill cap off). If there is no air in the system, you should see fluid return from the compensating port making a small swell in the fluid above the port. If you have trapped air, the fluid will shoot up very high out of the compensating port, even out of the the top of the master cylinder.
     
    bchctybob and David Gersic like this.
  9. 34Joe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2010
    Posts: 191

    34Joe
    Member

    The front disc brake pads have 12,000 miles on them. I checked for pad knock off the other day. I was unable to get a .005 feeler gauge between the rotor and pads. I had no problems until I replaced the power booster and master cylinder.
     
  10. 34Joe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2010
    Posts: 191

    34Joe
    Member

    This I will have to try once I get a new booster and master cylinder installed. Appreciate the info.
     
  11. deuce1932
    Joined: Jul 24, 2006
    Posts: 107

    deuce1932
    Member
    from Australia

    Long shot but ...check to see if booster reaction disc has moved or dropped out..?
    I've had it happen.. the MC pushrod was pulled out a bit too far.
    Result was about 3/8" play before the master started to stroke
    Low pedal, soft brakes due to reduced volume of fluid pushed.
     
    bchctybob likes this.
  12. 34Joe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2010
    Posts: 191

    34Joe
    Member

    Do not have to check for that now as the booster and master cylinder have been returned for a refund. I need some info on who has quality parts .This will be the third time I am doing this, need a happy ending. Thanks for the info.
     
  13. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 7,243

    BJR
    Member

    You can usually get a happy ending for an extra $30 and a wink before she starts.:p
     
    2OLD2FAST and anothercarguy like this.
  14. Johnboy34
    Joined: Jul 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,414

    Johnboy34
    Member
    from Seattle,Wa

    You said good pressure, at the bleeders? Around 8 or 9 hundred # on a normal stop, up to around 18 hundred # on a full panic lockup stop?
     
    Mimilan likes this.
  15. 34Joe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2010
    Posts: 191

    34Joe
    Member

    I was only eyeballing it not using any gauges. Moot point now as the booster and master cylinder have been returned for a refund. Need to get some quality parts for round 3.
     

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