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Brake pedal soft

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Dgb, Jul 15, 2014.

  1. Dgb
    Joined: Jul 27, 2013
    Posts: 12

    Dgb
    Member
    from Kansas

    I using a floor mount power brake dual master cylinder with the 2 lbs and 10 lbs residue valves. Master cylinder is level with brake cylinders. Disc on front , shoes in fear. I have bleed the system. My pedal is soft and it does not go to floor like if system is full of air. Just does not feel like I have good brakes. Have not driven it. Anybody got any ideas ?


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  2. oldsman41
    Joined: Jun 25, 2010
    Posts: 1,113

    oldsman41
    Member

    im sure others will chime in with help. im not convinced the system still doesnt have some air in it. start at the right rear bleed than left rear front right than front left last. if its still soft check to make sure the push rod is going in correctly no angle and pushing fluid.
     
  3. Make sure your rear drum brakes are properly adjusted. This makes a big difference in pedal height in some cases.
     
  4. 302aod
    Joined: Dec 19, 2011
    Posts: 275

    302aod
    Member
    from Pelham,Tn.

    As a former Dealership Mechanic the other replys are very good advice. When I put on a new Master Cylinder it's best to bench bleed, then as stated start at the farthest cyl from the M/C. Looks like you still have a small amount of air in the system or too much play in the push rod or adj the rears as stated before.
     
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  5. Also with the discs, you have to push the pads out against the rotors. After brake jobs with power brakes, we would bleed all around manually, start the car up and push the pedal (not to the stops..) and it would come up higher with a few pumps. Then pop each bleeder with light pedal pressure to make sure no air remained. You can do the same with manual brakes, just don't start the engine.

    Take a look to see if the pads are tight against the rotors.
     
  6. As a brake mechanic, I cannot stress this enough!!
     
  7. I did brakes for about 10 years, day in day out. I also learned from the old timers.. only now I am the old timer...
     
  8. sunbeam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2010
    Posts: 4,219

    sunbeam
    Member

    Did you use any of those through the frame bulk head fitting that are for tubing frames? Some are made with large passage the same size as the nut side fitting. Air gets trapped in the fitting to bleed you must jack up one side of the car until the outlet side is high enough to let the air out.
     
  9. rockable
    Joined: Dec 21, 2009
    Posts: 2,620

    rockable
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  10. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 9,441

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    If new wheel cylinders and calipers tap on them with a hammer they will have small bubbles stick on the inside and the tapping will brake them loose then bleed again.
     
  11. supercab78
    Joined: Dec 19, 2011
    Posts: 53

    supercab78
    Member

    Also made sure your bleeder screws are at the top so it can't trap air. I you need to you can raise one end of the car up to achieve this.
     
  12. Oh crap.. this was SOP on bleeding the rears on Vegas many moons ago....
     
  13. terry skinner
    Joined: Mar 10, 2014
    Posts: 16

    terry skinner
    Member
    from Roy, WA

    This is the way I got all of the air out.......
     
  14. terry skinner
    Joined: Mar 10, 2014
    Posts: 16

    terry skinner
    Member
    from Roy, WA

    The other thing I did was to remove the caliper, place a piece of plywood (same thickness as the disc) between the pads. With the hose still connected and the pressure bleeder applied I could then rotate the caliper all around to get any little pockets of air. That's what it took to get REAL brakes!! HTH....Terry
     
  15. Just a thought,is the rod from master cylinder long enough. HRP
     
  16. 40FordGuy
    Joined: Mar 24, 2008
    Posts: 2,908

    40FordGuy
    Member

    Ditto, proper rear drum brake adjustment !!!!!

    4TTRUK
     

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