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Brake pedal for my Tudor (Take 2)

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Probesport, Jan 23, 2012.

  1. So my first attempt at a brake pedal was a complete failure of utter suckitude. I spent a bit more time on this setup and I think it will do nicely for me.

    It's not 100% complete yet, I still need to mount the hinge pin and support the assembly but it keeps the project moving forward..

    These are the parts. The pedal arm was cut from a piece of 1/2" steel the the center milled and the holes put in. The center pivot is a 5/8" pin. The pedal is going to be heated and bent slightly outwards as well.

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    The master and pedal assembly bolted up, nothing welded in yet and no framework.

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    Cowl on and hidden away.
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    With the cowl on I can still check and add fluid - albeit uncomfortably. The dash that was cut out of the tank will go back on but attached to the body and not the cowl to make it easier to remove.
     


  2. Just looking at your pics ... It might be a good idea to run a longer bolt through the pedals (I don't see any threads sticking beyond the nyloc nut) and it might also be a good idea to drill the end of the longer bolt for a cotter pin (I did on mine ... impossible for it to vibrate loose now:)).

    Not picking apart your design ... just thinking "safety". Would really suck to lose your brakes and clutch while approaching a stop light.
     
  3. boutlaw
    Joined: Apr 30, 2010
    Posts: 1,221

    boutlaw
    Member

    Looks pretty darn good. I remember hanging my pedals very well. It was one of the more labor intensive jobs of building my coupe. I like the fact that you can service the M/C without pulling the cowl. That will prove to be a definite advantage. I was dealing with brake and clutch so that made it worse and I do have to pull the cowl to service my M/C unless I can find a 2 ft tall skinny chick with long arms and eyeballs on the ends of her fingers to see the fill level in the M/C. Your car looks great and you are definitely getting down to the wire. Just don't get in a hurry at this late stage and start throwing it together as that would be "utter suckitude" down the road, to use your lingo.
     
  4. It took me a bit to figure out exactly what you were talking about, until I realized that you must mean the bolts on the firewall - the nuts are on the inside, what you see is the outside. In short order, that whole assembly will be welded to a support structure under the cowl that will be the center for most of the systems in the car.
     

  5. Here is my original drawing and raw material for those interested.

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  6. As I am finishing this up, I have a couple questions.

    1) Should I have a pedal return spring?

    2) Do I need a pedal stop?

    3) Should the rod be allowed to "bottom out" the master cyl?

    Any help is appreciated, thanks.
     
  7. pasadenahotrod
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 11,776

    pasadenahotrod
    Member
    from Texas

    Pedal return spring...yes.
    Pedal stop...only if the pushrod is bottoming the piston in the master cylinder bore.
     
  8. 1950ChevySuburban
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 6,191

    1950ChevySuburban
    Member Emeritus
    from Tucson AZ

    Since you have that nice box everything fits in, can you incorporate a lever style brake light switch? Like on a 50's GM truck? Much better than the hydraulic junk.
     
  9. OK I already have the spring just nee to set it up. Yes I can bottom the piston, do I setup the stop just as it bottoms or slightly before?

    That's a good idea, and I have a few of those switches lying around, I don't like the hydraulic switches either. I will add that in tonight.
     
  10. I finished up this assembly tonight, just finisjhed painting and it's drying now.

    The pedal arm bent up
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    The major parts in the assembly, I redid the clevis a bit from earlier pictures, the 2 blact rings are some spacers cut out of Delrin.
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    The assembly in and hanging
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    Last edited: Jan 29, 2012
  11. And finally finished up for good, painted and installed.

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    It feels great, I just ordered the parts to start on the lines so that puts one project done.
     
  12. Combination valve installed

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