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Brake Lines?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Shawn F., May 7, 2012.

  1. Shawn F.
    Joined: Mar 14, 2005
    Posts: 590

    Shawn F.
    Member

    I am going to be ready to install brake lines on my 49 Ford coupe in less than 2 weeks. I have been making a list gathered for everything I need and my plan is to go with 3/16" brake lines, booster and M/C with proportioning valve from CPP that is supposed to be used for a ChevyII/Nova.
    I am trying to decide if I should just get a few sticks of 3/16 line from NAPA or stainless from Speedway Motors or this Cunifer type line from Fed Hill... http://store.fedhillusa.com/316475mmtubingandnuts.aspx
    What are your guys' opinions from personal experience on what brake lines to go with?

    Thanks for any info!
     
  2. is it a show car? or a daily driver?
     
  3. vanst603
    Joined: Oct 2, 2011
    Posts: 49

    vanst603
    Member
    from New York

    I like cutting and bending my own stick tubing. Done nicely it's a much cleaner factory look but does take more time and patience. You can use other stuff and hand bend it for a template.
     
  4. Shawn F.
    Joined: Mar 14, 2005
    Posts: 590

    Shawn F.
    Member

    It's not a daily driver that's for sure... Frame off resto pretty much. It was a frame off job back in the 80's and then repainted and all chrome redone in the 90's. I painted the frame gloss black again (didn't need it but wanted it refreshed), new motor/trans, rear end, brakes, etc. I am wanting something that will not rust after 1 year. It will stay garaged but most likely get caught in a few rain storms at shows/cruises so I do not want it to start rusting after a few rain storms.
     

  5. dutch rudder
    Joined: Jan 15, 2012
    Posts: 146

    dutch rudder
    Member
    from houston

    make it easy= run the nylon brake lines. stupid easy to run, and cheap!
     
  6. nwbhotrod
    Joined: Oct 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,243

    nwbhotrod
    Member
    from wash state

     
  7. i never had good luck flaring stainless lines so get them to the correct length or use the steel ones and paint them. i found up here on daily drivers the lines will last a long time, even on plow trucks, if you paint the lines. obviously the stainless will look better.
     
  8. 6-71
    Joined: Sep 15, 2005
    Posts: 542

    6-71
    Member

    I bought a roll of that copper nickle (cunifer) brake line for my T-bucket project. I paid $23.00 for a 25 foot roll. I had the parts guy double check the part # and the price. It was the correct price and it is definately marked copper-nickle. It is really easy to work with and flare. I wouldn't bother with stainless it's more work than it's worth.
     
  9. Willy301
    Joined: Nov 16, 2007
    Posts: 1,426

    Willy301
    Member

    There was a post on here not long ago, the cunifer line is not very strong, and could blow out under hard braking. If you buy the flaring tool from Summit or Jegs, that looks like a pair of bolt cutters, instead of the hand twist style of flaring tool, stainless should not be a problem.
     
  10. drptop70ss
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,184

    drptop70ss
    Member
    from NY

    I buy the 25' rolls of brake line at autozone and make my own, easy to flare and the latest stuff is coated to keep from rusting. If they are bare steel I paint them. Dont use the sticks unless they are long enough to not need splices, makes the lines fugly.
     
  11. dutch rudder
    Joined: Jan 15, 2012
    Posts: 146

    dutch rudder
    Member
    from houston

  12. Shawn F.
    Joined: Mar 14, 2005
    Posts: 590

    Shawn F.
    Member

    I may just roll with the steel lines. Easy and cheap to get and the idea about painting them is great. I will probably get the cast aluminum engine enamel and paint them along with the fuel lines to match and it will look clean. As for the nylon, I am not sure about them on a street driven car... Interesting though and I'd like to hear more info about these.
    Thanks so far for the info guys!
     
  13. yetiskustoms
    Joined: May 22, 2009
    Posts: 1,930

    yetiskustoms
    Member

    Expansion!!!

    I like bending all my own lines. Reg brake line tubing is fine to run and can look nice too. Easier to run a double flare on as appose to the stainless lines. I have run plenty of both, and a double flare on stainless is kinda a pain without the right tools.

    For your deal, I would run regular tubing. If the master is under the floor run check valves,porpotioning valve, and check your line size to brakes to make sure you have it right. Disk/disk, disk/drum, drum/drum. If you want to clean it up, use nice stainless clamps on the frame rail. I use www.inlinetube.com for all my stuff. Good luck!
     
  14. JohnEvans
    Joined: Apr 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,883

    JohnEvans
    Member
    from Phoenix AZ

  15. Shawn F.
    Joined: Mar 14, 2005
    Posts: 590

    Shawn F.
    Member

    I think I will be running the booster and M/C on the firewall. I know it looks cleaner without it but not sure about under the floor... I like reliability and ease of use/work and to me it's easier to have it mounted on the firewall to work on it and keep it from road abuse and moisture. Only thing is that it will kill the cleanliness of the engine compartment...
     
  16. dutch rudder
    Joined: Jan 15, 2012
    Posts: 146

    dutch rudder
    Member
    from houston

    yea, just like a whole bunch of stuff that is used on rods/customs/customs ;)
     
  17. JohnEvans
    Joined: Apr 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,883

    JohnEvans
    Member
    from Phoenix AZ

    Well by your handle you are Dutch and a hardheaded one I guess. That stuff is to prone to damage for street use.
     
  18. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 18,318

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    And against the law in most places.

    Have an accident, and see what the insurance adjuster says about your claim.:eek:

    Metal lines are easy to flare and install, once you learn how.

    Don't make a foolish mistake. Russian roulette logic is not sound thinking.
     
  19. staleg
    Joined: Jan 8, 2004
    Posts: 241

    staleg
    Member

    What kind of fittings do you plan to use against the MC?
    I recommend the solution with banjo fittings with an male ends.

    I struggled a lot with the other typical fittings that are used to fasten the 3/16" line against a GM MC.
     
  20. tudorkeith
    Joined: May 10, 2009
    Posts: 454

    tudorkeith
    Member

    I went with the regular steel(25 ft roll) rebbed it with scotchbrite and clear coated them.
     
  21. Shawn F.
    Joined: Mar 14, 2005
    Posts: 590

    Shawn F.
    Member

    Well guys I am going to go with the regular steel lines I have decided 100% on. Now while on the subject, one more question... I have a kit from CPP that I had from my 63 Chevy II wagon with the booster, M/C and Prop Valve. Any idea if this will work? I am not sure what the M/C is but I need to find out because the one I have has been sitting and got moisture in it and rusted out. The booster seems fine and looks/is this one: http://www.classicperform.com/Store/1967_1979_Chevy_Camaro/6774SRBO.htm

    Any idea if this will work? I do not have $300-$400 for a new booster/master cylinder kit so want to utilize this one if at all possible. If I can find out what m/c they are using, I'd like to go to Napa or somewhere to buy a new one and bolt onto this booster and prop valve combo. disc/drum setup btw...
     
  22. Shawn F.
    Joined: Mar 14, 2005
    Posts: 590

    Shawn F.
    Member

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