hey guys, im back, i have a couple questions where did you guys get your brake hard lines and chassis mounts i have been looking around and found that yogis has a kit but its around $400 this company inline tube has the lines for around $130 i was just wondering if any of you guys have any places that make kits for 31 model A's and is preferably a good deal thanks for your help
buy a roll at the auto parts store or in 6 foot stick lengths, and a good quality flaring tool, tube cutter and for under 50 bones you can do it yourself.
I used the Speedway kit on my RPU chassis - stainless bulk tubing with AN fittings and chassis tabs for around $300. They have a non-stainless version for $150-ish. Or do what 53Sled said if yer not into fancy AN fittings... I just helped a buddy do his 5-window chassis this way.
Brake tubing is steel, and the ends are double flare. The tool is about 40 bucks, a tube cutter about 6. You will need a fine file for deburing the cut tube, and WD40 or similar to lube the flare procces. Practice a couple times on a chunk of tube, when the double flares look like your life depends on them, (it does), go to it. The other way is to measure and buy lenghs of pre flared tube, and carfully bend them to fit. Another tool to buy now is a tube bender. The good ones are about 40 bucks, dont scrimp here, and dont use a tube that has been kinked.
sweet thanks, im probably going to go with option 1 then, ill go buy that stuff and start to bending and flaring
Exactly! don't let this be intimidating, once you do a couple flares and get the hang of it, its simple. Also don't be afraid of the bending part of it.Those tools are cheap too.
Pick up a bunch of Adel rubber lined clips. If the frame is boxed, you can drill and tap a hole for a mounting bolt on each one where you want them.
Only addition...if you are doing a LOT of flares, buy a good double flaring tool! I use a Rigid. Costs $80-100. If ya don't believe me...do a search on that topic here. Lots of frustration if you dont!
most good auto parts stores has stuff like tees , unions and adapters. hoses too. for clamps i go to the hardware store and get either 3/16 or 1/4 nylon clamps...they are usually in the electrical section. the tabs that you weld on the frame to accept the brake hose i just make
The teflon-coated line they sell around here is awesome stuff.Adv*nce Aut*,Aut* Z*ne and some other parts houses have it-so it should be easily found? It's a greenish color,but bends,flares and cuts really nicely. Good luck with your project!
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE use the double flair. You can do a single flair and it will look similar to a double flair, but you actuall just have a VERY weak piece of tubing saving you from instant death.
Double flare tubing used with 45° fittings. If you're using 37° "AN" type fittings with a collar, they are made to be used with single flared tubing.
plus, 45 degree flare hardware (lines, fittings, etc) is readily available at most auto stores, especially in remote areas. SO, when you go on a road trip, you can easily get what you need. 45's are more common, from what I gather, hence the availibility of road side repairs.
Napa lines and bought a hand bender and flaring tool from Summit. Easy and you can make it fit any way you want. Clips, you can get the plastic ones at the hardware store or I like the ones with rubber over them so I got some from Summit. Fittings can be gotten at most auto parts stores, Napa again for mine. Take the time to make some scrap to figure out the bending points before you start tho... Don't ask me how I know that...
If you are running the early Ford brakes try these sources for the hard to find stuff: Richard Lacy at [email protected], (626) 338-2282, Dennis Cling at clingsaftermarket.com, (480) 777-1202 or Dave Wilton at (530) 872-0122 Charlie Stephens
also do NOT use a tubing cutter to cut the tube, use a hack saw or cut off wheel. the tubing cutter with the wheel makes the end hard and might crack when making a flare. the best $280 you can spend is on a hydroflaring tool. http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/MAS-71300.html
Not to stir the poop, but, I'll agree, and disagree. How are you supposed to get a square end on the line? Yes, cut straight. The only way you can guarantee a square cut is with a QUALITY cot off tool, like one from Rigid. Spend more money, and get a good product, it'll pay for itself. Jsut my $0.02.
I've redone brake lines on entire vehicles for less than $50 using premade lines from the parts store. It's worth having a hand bender if you need tight bends, the rest you can do by hand. Just be careful to try to get the silver colored steel line. They're selling this new stuff that's black and softer material and it's a real pain in the ass to use - I put a couple sections in my last beater and paid to have it bled only to have one of the joints I'd cranked the hell out of, pop a leak and have to be cranked down again. Apparently it's so soft that high pressure in the line can open the flare enough for it to leak at a union - but stiff enough it's hard to apply the same pressure by hand tightening it.
For the budget minded, I've never believed that stainless steel brake lines for our cars that will spend most of their life in a garage is necessary. It's more of an ego trip to me. I hate rolled tubing. I can never get it to look straight enough for me. You can buy everything you need for a lot less than 150 bucks. (not counting tools) at a good jobber type auto parts store. I'd love to have all the space age tools but I've replaced a hell of a lot of brake lines in my brake shop with the much looked down upon red plastic imported double flaring tool kit. If you have plenty of cash and plan to built multiple cars then maybe but if you take your time and use a pair of pliers to really clamp the tubing in place so that it can't slip, you can get excellent results with out spending a fortune on tools if you follow the directions. Use a tubing cutter. One of the plastic "mini cutters" will do just fine. Just go back and forth to establish the groove. It's easy to cut a thread if you continue to rotate in the same direction. I like to buff the tubing after it is bent with a simple bench grinder. Then I hit it with some rattle can clear. It will stay looking good for many many years if it's not exposed to the elements on a daily basis. Either the car or I will be long gone before it can rust sitting in the garage. When it's done nobody in this world can tell if it's stainless or polished galvanized steel. You can spend a bunch on stainless or billet tubing hold downs but the black nylon(???) clamps are cheap and just as neat and effective. I like to lay out all the connections so that I can buy hard pre-flared tubing which is slightly longer than what I need for each section. I start with the short tubing nut and work away from it toward the long nut. Once you make the cut to length, I replace the long tubing nut with a standard short nut that I buy at the same time. It's not necessary but it just looks better to me. Those long nuts look stupid to me. If you are loaded then none of this will be relevant to you...so as Emily once said...never mind. I use a bender similar to this. Like any tool, people will have different preferences.
I just picked up some green line from auto zone $30 30 feet hand bendable , hasn't kinked at all. T fiting with a mounting hole was $20 from napa. Fittings 3/16 nuts. Went to speedway for the residual valves and proportioning valve. I also got the brake line tabs to weld on to the fram. As for tools I picked up a flarinng tool from autozon. It was a complete piec of shit it broke . I would spend the extra dough for a good one for cuting the tub square I took one of my fathers tube cutters that you tighten on and roll around the tube tightening as you go till it cuts. still need a master.
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