The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by jamesperkins416, Feb 7, 2012.
Just wondering if anyone had ideas on what to do with these brake lines.
It might help if you elaborate on your question.
What exactly are you trying to accomplish?
because of the position of the brake calipers I had to use super long brake lines and they look like crap, trying to find a idea on how to hide them.
You could replace the braided hose with the black kevlar lines that Speedway sell in their race catalog, those look like GM calipers, you could notch the cup where the banjo fitting mounts and run the under the caliper and up, but they are going to sho no matter what,& ya gotta havem
Can you reverse the calipers? In other words, put the left on the right and visa-versa.
If you do that your hose mounting location on the caliper will be on the top greatly shortening up the hose.
I just noticed that, that would also place the bleeder in the correct location, they way they look currently the bleeders on the bottom???
I can't move the calipers because steering arm is were they are supposed to be, and if I try to reposition fitting on caliper it will hit axle. I think i'm just S.O.L
Another thing to do is to relocate the whole caliper mount. If it were me I'd rotate the whole assembly 180 degrees. That will solve all your problems both current and the ones to come.
The bleeder is on top. I think I have tried every possible position for those calipers.
You're okay IMO, The ugly rad hose draws my eyes away from them.
I'm working on that, but thanks.
You CANNOT locate the bleeders on the bottom,you will NEVER get all the air out.
Looking at the Driver side only (with tire off), your at about a 7 o'clock position, if you could get the caliper at a 10 o'clock position thing would be better. You would have to modify the caliper brakets.
Place a slab of wood slightly thicker than disc between pads.
Turn caliper 180 degrees.
While this can be done, if he ever had an accident due to brake failer (street or track) he would be 100% at fault.
If he had any accident with a gasser he would be at 100% fault thats just the way of a custom car.
If you have a single line out of the master for the front brakes, have you thought about running a single flexable line down behind the shock, and then teeing off behind the axle to each caliper with hard brake lines? I believe you would need a short flex line to each caliper if they are floating calipers, but getting everything in black rubber lines would also help everything "hide" a little better.
Everything brake related looks upside down.
1 . from master cylinder hardline down to the centre of crossmember U bolt area
2 . then black rubber hose to back of axle into a Tee piece
3 . then hard line attached to back of axle out to caliper black brake hoses
4 . try and rotate calipers to the back of axle
Steve in Oz
Calipers have to stay were they are, but great idea about ruber running lines behind axle.. I think my problem may be solved.
Have you driven the car with that buggy spring setup? It looks like it will just tip over at the spring mount, with such a high center of gravity. Maybe that's a common setup, just not to me.
The car drives and handles better than I thought it would. You just don't want to take any corners at 50 mph.
Yeah, the entire set up is hideous. Pay your money once and get it fixed right. How much could it cost, maybe $300 for some new mounts to be fabricated? Who made the axle, is there anything readily available for it?
Are you actually going to run this setup on the strip or just putt around the city streets? If you have enough power to raise the front wheels off the ground when it comes down hangon. What is that axle out of and what kind of caliper mounts are you useing ?
Detail the under carriage in satin black, run some black heat shrink tubing over the shiny braided lines. Run everything as neat & clean as you can and call it done.
When you do custom stuff, then you have custom problems.
You have a dropped Ford axle, with apparently way too much drop because you needed a huge spaced at the spring mount that's attached to the big drop crossmember that's in the way of your radiator hose bibs. There's what trying to be different will get you, Custom problems. You have a suicide mount and a very high center of gravity. Haven't seen that one used much.
Make a bracket off if the shock mounting holes in the axle to hold the union from hard line to flex hose. Short flex to caliper, hard line across back of axle with a tee, and one flex from axle to frame. You can put that any tee any place that works and looks good.
Another way wound be to run hard lines down the arms with a short flex to caliper and short flex near the arm to frame mounts.
You'll get it and it will be different & yep neat car.
I bought the car because of the of the suicide front end. When I got it home and started ripping it apart the nightmare began the steering that was on it wouldn't work because of the rear sump oil pan and I couldn't put a front sump pan on because of crossmember needed for spring. I had to make new crossmember because the one that was on it was bent, and the spacer is on it because the steering has to go above the radius rods. I am trying to make every thing for the car myself without spending a ton of money. Thanks to all who have given suggestions.
Am I the first to mention it - the leaves should be parallel, NOT a transverse set up. Change THAT, and all the problems go away.
Well, except for the radiator hose(s).
Hey, that car will 100% better when you get it sorted out. If it was easy then every smart.ss would do his own work. Keep pounding on it and some of us will be asking YOU questions next time. Love altered Fords
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