Ok -- first round . . . no proportioning valve, no residual valve . . . we'll see how this one goes first. I'm going to hope that it's close because the weight and brake differences . . . who knows. I will the first time it slams me thru the windshield or wants to swap ends . . . I'll know. LOL How does this mock-up look? The existing block gets a cap for where the rear brake line went. The primary cylinder (rear of master) then feeds the old distribution block with a 5/16 to 1/4 adapter. The rear line gets a 3/16 inch to 1/4 inch adapter. It goes to a T (with a cap on the extra line -- couldn't find a 90 degree) and that goes up via the old line to the secondary cylinder (front of master). I would have taken the rear line and fed it up and put it directly to the master, but I don't like how close it could move to the steering shaft and coupler that's right there. With the "90" I can restrain the movement a bit. Any thoughts? Suggestions? Whadda ya' think? Hopefully my newly flared line works without leaks. It looks purty.
I don't like the color of it. It looks doable, a lot of guys try to put a loop in it for vibration issues, but if everything is mounted good and solid that shouldn't be an issue.
Thanks guys! I wanted to make sure I wasn't crazy or something . . . maybe tonight I can get it all hooked up and juiced up.
Only thing I see that may be an issue is...how close are those headers to the little pipes holding your brake fluid? Might need a little heat shield if it's real close... 2¢
I think it looks like shit But ill bet it will work just fine. Needs chrome and maybe a gold chain or 2 Dave ps: just kidding .. looks good
No residual valves? You might run into problems. Does the MC have built in valves? if its an MC for 4 wheel drum (assuming you have 4 drums) sometimes the valve is right there in each port. Let us know how it performs.
Master cylinder is for drum/disc combo, we'll see how it goes first without one. I'll probably end up getting a residual for the front brakes (rear already has them). I stopped the other night and they didn't have any at the hot rod parts store. I've got some more fabricating on the adapter to do tonight . . . if it goes quick, I could test tonight, otherwise I might wait till the valves get to the store and replumb that line.
I actually got creative on the bending a bit -- I took a length of copper pipe and stuck it over the peice and then I was able to bend it where I needed pulling and moving it a bit each time. It's not as tight and pretty as it could be, but some of this is an experiment anyway. I'll see how this goes and maybe get a cheapie bender to make it more factory looking.
I am worried more about the disc master...if the front wheel cylinders pressure up faster than they should, you could run into problems- but only if the bias favors the front by a BUNCH. the basic rule of hydraulics (even in a split system) is that nothing happens until all the pressures are equal, so if it behaves right, you should be okay. and tell me why you are running residual valves again? with the master on the firewall and being drum/drum, you shouldn't need 'em.
From what I've read so far and that, the springs on the drums force pressure back up. I've read that residual valve keeps a little pressure on the wheel cylinders to keep them extended out and not sucking in garbage into the cylinder. With disk/drum setup, it allows the rear to come on the same as the front (since front doesn't have to move much). That's what I've read and put together so far . . . sometimes I've heard/read conflicting stuff. We'll see how it goes.
The Jalopy Journal
