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Brake Guru's - Help

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 51Fourdoor, Mar 17, 2010.

  1. 51Fourdoor
    Joined: Aug 26, 2005
    Posts: 150

    51Fourdoor
    Member

    I am working on an O/T car, (68 Chrysler) that has drum brakes all around with brake booster. New master and wheel cylinders, rebuilt booster. I have been trying to bleed the brakes and cannot get any fluid to move through the lines. I am starting at the right rear (farthest from the m/c) and have double checked the booster rod is set correctly. I have done the bench bleed on the master cylinder (twice actually), so I know fluid is moving out of there, but not down the lines. If I had a blockage somewhere in the line, wouldn't some fluid move and then get a hard pedal, I just wouldn't be getting fluid to the wheel cylinders?

    I'm out of ideas; any input would be greatly appreciated!
     
  2. Captain Freedom
    Joined: May 6, 2009
    Posts: 262

    Captain Freedom
    Member
    from Upstate SC

    The hoses. Undo the fitting right before them and then bleed them. They can go bad and look fine from the outside.
     
  3. 51Fourdoor
    Joined: Aug 26, 2005
    Posts: 150

    51Fourdoor
    Member

    All flex hoses are new. Hardlines were not replaced.
     
  4. HEATHEN
    Joined: Nov 22, 2005
    Posts: 7,592

    HEATHEN
    Member
    from SIDNEY, NY

    Does the system have a proportioning valve? I've seen them screw up bleeding.
     
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  5. V8 Bob
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 2,547

    V8 Bob
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    What bleeding method are you using? With a dual master, it doesn’t matter which wheel you bleed first-the front and rear axles on your car are on different circuits. If pedal bleeding, make sure the engine is off and vacuum assist depleted. Using a pressure bladder, if available, makes the job much easier, faster with generally better results.

    If the car has a metering valve, you have to push the button in while low pressure (less than 100 or so psi) bleeding to allow fluid to move to the fronts.

    How did you check to be sure the master push rod is adjusted properly? With the M/C cap removed, a small fluid "squirt" should be visible from each chamber when the pedal is applied lightly. There should be about .040" clearance between the push rod and primary M/C piston with the pedal fully retracted.
    Bob
     
  6. 51Fourdoor
    Joined: Aug 26, 2005
    Posts: 150

    51Fourdoor
    Member

    Bob,

    It is a dual m/c; I have filled the m/c and started with the rear right wheel. Having someone pump 3-4 times and holding down, I am cracking the valve at the cylinder. Cannot get any fluid to move. I bench bled the m/c with a vacuum gauge / pump, so I know fluid can move out of the m/c. The shop manual I have shows the length the rod should be from the front of the spacer between the m/c and booster.

    There is a distribution block mounted on the frame; that is probably the metering valve. I'll have to look at the manual to see if there is button to push.

    Thanks for the help and ideas.

    51fourdoor
     

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